C my new tractor

[Horse Newbie 7,069]

Make sure to get all of the underwear out… if you don’t it will run like crap…

😆

[ebinmaine 67,456]

4 hours ago, Horse Newbie said:

Make sure to get all of the underwear out… if you don’t it will run like crap…

😆

 

 

Oh. Oh my!!

 

 

[SylvanLakeWH 25,548]

[Oldskool 6,644]

9 hours ago, Pullstart said:

If it wasn’t mentioned about that pin, try grabbing it with a pipe wrench and some heat.  Spinning it will break it free much easier than trying to drive it!  

Good idea. I'll definitely try that

[Oldskool 6,644]

7 hours ago, Horse Newbie said:

Make sure to get all of the underwear out… if you don’t it will run like crap…

😆

A whole new meaning to passing gas?

[Oldskool 6,644]

Not getting alot done but making headway just the same.

The tierod ends have been peened in to take up the slop. 

Now I'm rolling AND steering.

 

My next big hurdle is to get it to turn over using the key switch. Haven't found the power loss yet.

 

I have run jumper wires, cleaned the points and had it kick and start with a squirter and no carb.

[Oldskool 6,644]

Also curious if this is the original routing for the Nelson muffler.

[ebinmaine 67,456]

1 hour ago, Oldskool said:

Also curious if this is the original routing for the Nelson muffler.

 

 

Mike measure the outer diameter of the can on that muffler.  

Looks a little bit big ((??))

 

See if it's over 3" or under. 

Should be under.  

 

 

No it's not routed quite right.  Should be no connection to the engine near the outlet end. 

 

If it's the larger muffler it won't set quite right in there and will burn the paint.   

 

I have a smaller one I'd send up but you'll need to touch up the inlet.  It's otherwise solid.  

[Oldskool 6,644]

7 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

Mike measure the outer diameter of the can on that muffler.  

Looks a little bit big ((??))

 

See if it's over 3" or under. 

Should be under.  

 

 

No it's not routed quite right.  Should be no connection to the engine near the outlet end. 

 

If it's the larger muffler it won't set quite right in there and will burn the paint.   

 

I have a smaller one I'd send up but you'll need to touch up the inlet.  It's otherwise solid.  

I'm thinking it seems a bit bigger then 3in. I didn't think it should have been mounted to the flywheel housing. Any pics of an original mounting position?

[ebinmaine 67,456]

8 minutes ago, Oldskool said:

I'm thinking it seems a bit bigger then 3in. I didn't think it should have been mounted to the flywheel housing. Any pics of an original mounting position?

None of my 3 with a Kohler have it in place anymore. One's a stack. One's a side mount Gravely style.  The other has no engine in it but it too was wrong.   

 

It's a VERY popular conversion to install the later style muffler off a 78 or 80 up on the older tractors. 

Maybe the older ones were NLA?

Maybe just bad play. Dunno.  

 

Some folks use em and they seem ok. 

I've had several go through our shop and ALL had the paint burned on the hood near it.  

 

[ebinmaine 67,456]

15 minutes ago, Oldskool said:

I'm thinking it seems a bit bigger then 3in. I didn't think it should have been mounted to the flywheel housing. Any pics of an original mounting position?

 

 

Here a link to my C160 Tecumsehorse thread.  

It shows a vague side pic. 

Best I got here.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Oldskool 6,644]

@ebinmaine I see what you mean.

I'll check it out tomorrow after work. Thanks

[ebinmaine 67,456]

7 hours ago, Oldskool said:

@ebinmaine I see what you mean.

I'll check it out tomorrow after work. Thanks

I can comparison pics after work. Show you the physical difference. 

[Oldskool 6,644]

1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

I can comparison pics after work. Show you the physical difference. 

I couldn't wait till after work to measure mine. Mine is 4in. 

[ebinmaine 67,456]

12 minutes ago, Oldskool said:

I couldn't wait till after work to measure mine. Mine is 4in. 

Yeah that's definitely the larger of the two. I know they fit black hoods and maybe black fronts too.

 

 

[953 nut 55,199]

12 hours ago, Oldskool said:

My next big hurdle is to get it to turn over using the key switch. Haven't found the power loss yet.

Here is a step by step trouble shooting guide I worked up.

Why won’t my starter turn over from the key switch?

Lets take a logical step by step inspection of your starter problem.

Is your PTO in the ON position, a wheel horse will not start with the PTO on.

Have you had the battery load tested at an auto parts store?

Have you cleaned and tightened all electrical connections including grounds?

Are all fuses good and fuse holders cleaned?

If these have all been done, we can check components of the starting system as follows; don’t skip a step or you may miss the problem.

Be sure the transmission is in neutral and the parking brake is set.

Take a pair of automotive jumper cables and connect the black cable to your battery  "-" and a good clean spot on the engine. Now connect the other cable to the large post on the starter and touch the other end to the battery "+" terminal, does the starter turn over? If the starter turns over the battery and starter are good. If it didn't turn over try the same steps with the battery in your car/truck, if that cures the problem then the "good" battery wasn't so good.

Presuming the starter turned over move the jumper wire from the starter post to the other end of the wire going to the starter which is one of the large posts on the solenoid. If the starter turns over when the battery is touched by the jumper as before then that cable is good, if not you have found your problem.

Presuming the starter turned over move that jumper to the other terminal of the solenoid, connect the other end to the battery and use a small piece of wire to temporarily connect the battery "+" terminal to the small terminal on the solenoid, this should cause the solenoid to close and the starter to turn over. If not, the solenoid is probably the problem.

If this was successful remove the large jumper cable and use the small jumper wire to the small terminal of the solenoid, the solenoid should close and the starter turn over. If not the cable to the battery is the problem.

Presuming all of these have been successful remove the black jumper wire and repeat the small jumper to small terminal, if the starter turns over the ground is good.

If all of these components test good then remove your ignition switch, be sure the transmission is in neutral, parking brake on, clutch depressed and PTO off. Use a small jumper to connect the terminals that were connected to the “B” and “S” terminals of the ignition switch. If the starter turns over then the PTO switch and other safety switches are operating properly and your ignition switch may be bad

[Oldskool 6,644]

@953 nut thanks. That's great. I'm hoping to get some time this evening to mess with it.

[Oldskool 6,644]

Ok guys. I've been cleaning and testing most of the electrical components.

 

The starter works

The switch seems to work.

Solenoid excites by jumper wire.

Coil and points fire.

 

I'm thinking I'm having a safety switch issue. 

The seat is unplugged. 

The clutch switch wires are cut off and it's rusted.

The pto is disengaged but the switch is plugged in.

 

I'm not sure where to go next.

 

[ebinmaine 67,456]

Now's the time to simplify your thinking process.  

Get your test light out. 

Start at the ignition switch.  

Look for power IN. 

If good time the switch and using the diagram Trina sent look for power OUT at the appropriate terminal (s). 

 

The wire that feeds the solenoid has to go through the safety switches first of course. 

I can't tell you what order because my tractors have no safeties.  

 

Follow the wire that's labeled S at the back of the ignition switch.  

Whatever switch that goes to see if it has power at THAT switch going IN. 

If not it's a broken wire. 

If yes see if you can see where it comes OUT of that switch.  

 

Repeat. 

Repeat.  

 

 

[Oldskool 6,644]

Oh I've been test and conductivitying lol.

I think I found to issue now.

 

If I run a jumper from the red wire on the switch to the red wire on the pto stitch it turns over and I have fire.

Does that red wire run to anything else first that I'm not seeing? Is there a fuse hidden somewhere?

[ebinmaine 67,456]

I don't believe there's a fuse. @953 nut can you confirm?

 

Mike can you physically trace that red wire from ignition switch to PTO to what used to be the clutch switch?

 

I do realize there is a fair amount of wire in a covering or taped. 

[Oldskool 6,644]

1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

I don't believe there's a fuse. @953 nut can you confirm?

 

Mike can you physically trace that red wire from ignition switch to PTO to what used to be the clutch switch?

 

I do realize there is a fair amount of wire in a covering or taped. 

I chased it around. I did not see anything for a fuse. Alot of wire in a little space. I replaced that wire. I think I'm good to go.

 

Next is the fuel system and trying to free up the brake pedal. 

[ebinmaine 67,456]

27 minutes ago, Oldskool said:

I chased it around. I did not see anything for a fuse. Alot of wire in a little space. I replaced that wire. I think I'm good to go.

 

Next is the fuel system and trying to free up the brake pedal. 

 

 

Progress !!

 

 

[GAJoe 844]

On 4/12/2023 at 11:59 PM, Horse Newbie said:

Make sure to get all of the underwear out… if you don’t it will run like crap…

😆

I'm glad that I didn't have my mouth full of tea when I read this.

[Oldskool 6,644]

A bit of tinkering this afternoon. I still have some stuck pivot points to free up. I'm afraid I may have to put heat to them. I'm hoping not for the paints sake.

 

I've come to the realization that ever k series carb I have is in need of major overhauling. 

I tried mis matching enough carb parts to get it running but nope no run. Just alot of wasted gas and effort.