Wheel Horse 654

[ML3 1,085]

Found a 654 for sale about 2hrs away. Going to look at it this weekend. It runs & operates as it should according to seller. Overall appears to be in decent condition. Has no implements- tractor only. That's fine w/me. Maybe eventually I'd like to get a snow blade or even a snowblower. From what I've found it was an only 1yr made model??? Are parts, implements, etc going to be difficult to obtain? Lastly, anything else I need to look for??? $400 nego seems reasonable? 

[Pullstart 62,031]

17 minutes ago, mjl111070@yahoo.com said:

Found a 654 for sale about 2hrs away. Going to look at it this weekend. It runs & operates as it should according to seller. Overall appears to be in decent condition. Has no implements- tractor only. That's fine w/me. Maybe eventually I'd like to get a snow blade or even a snowblower. From what I've found it was an only 1yr made model??? Are parts, implements, etc going to be difficult to obtain? Lastly, anything else I need to look for??? $400 nego seems reasonable? 

Awesome!  We’ll want pictures you know!  Those models changed every year.  502, 653, 854, etc.  hp, starter config, and Year all within three numbers. They implements are super interchangeable and not a worry.  Feel the steering, for tightness or slop, run it slightly hard in 3rd gear too.  That generally seems to be the gear people have speed shifted the most and it pops out the soonest.   Check oil, trans oil if you can, etc.  

[ri702bill 8,034]

You may wish to look over this first - LOTS of good info for before you buy - and after. All of what @Pullstart said, and more. The knowledge shared in it will help you uncover if it trash or treasure. Or, as I like to tell folks - you are looking for a tractor that is used, not USED UP....

 

 

[953 nut 54,145]

12 hours ago, mjl111070@yahoo.com said:

it was an only 1yr made model

That is a yes and no type thing. Some models were updated or replaced and others just got a new designation with the new year.

The three digit number tells you a few things about the size and age of the tractor.

First digit ( or two if it is a four digit number) tells the Horse Power,                                                                                                           

So you have a six HP engine 6

Second digit is a bit of a catchall, 0 is a pull start, 5 is an electric start, 7 is a hydromantic transmission which were all electric start.     

So you have an electric start 5

The last digit tells the year of manufacture during the '60s; 3 is 1963, 4 is 1964 and so on.

So you have a 1964          4

Since the last number changed each year that this system was used they are all one year only.

[ri702bill 8,034]

I am famiar with Round Hoods, but not the 654. Did a bit of searching - it is a sister to the 7HP rope start 704, not the same, but similar to the 754 and the popular 854. Nice tractor though.... The 654 came with a 6.5 HP Lauson Electric Start engine (the predecessor to the Tecumseh)... a somewhat rare engine...

Bill

[ML3 1,085]

Thanks everyone for the good information

 

Ended up.going this afternoon to look at the 654. I bought it. Unfortunately I have my trailer tires off & at tire shop getting replaced so I couldn't bring it home. Guy I bought it from offered to deliver it end of next week for $50! Score!!! So for $450 I got a running 654 delivered! It has a Tecumseh engine- probably not original I believe. He is into Cub Cadets & got it on a package deal so he wasn't interested in keeping it. 

 

Now I need to find a snow plow because I doubt the plow or snowblower off my 1984 C105 will fit? 

[ri702bill 8,034]

Good score !! I see someone added a "Big Boy" helper spring under the seat to keep the seat pan off the rear fenders. I did an adjustable one on the 854 8 speed... a bolt-in version that uses existing holes - works well.

I also see the PTO lever dangling - the roll pin to stop it needs attention, and the spring...

 

 

 

Edited March 25, 2023 by ri702bill

[ML3 1,085]

I gotta figure out all that in the back. PTO lever it is?? He has some other parts for that- pin & some other stuff in a box?? gotta figure out a rear hitch for sure & get a blade for front. Also gotta get the park brake to function too. 

[wallfish 16,721]

44 minutes ago, mjl111070@yahoo.com said:

I gotta figure out all that in the back. PTO lever it is?? He has some other parts for that- pin & some other stuff in a box?? gotta figure out a rear hitch for sure & get a blade for front. Also gotta get the park brake to function too. 

The foot pedal is for a mower deck so that can be removed if your not using a deck

The cable for the rear hitch rusted rotted and broke. Find one here

https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product-category/cables/

Your blade from the C105 should fit. Move the rear mounting bar on the frame to the front set of holes. They push snow well, 654 is my snow blade tractor

Parking brake is a very simple mechanism and you can probably get one from AZ tractors 

[ri702bill 8,034]

That chain is holding up the slot hitch - I see the broken off end of the cable clevis still attached, The other end goes to the Implement lift lower mechanism. Lowell sells the repro cables.

I do not see a rear bracket clamped on the Unidrive - that is the mount for the plow. 

Plows - ideally, you want a "short frame" plow - the one with the triangular frame. You Can use a later "long frame" style - it may put the angling lever in an odd spot....

Two front plow lift links available - one is a chain - does NOT give the ability to put downward pressure on the plow. The other is a solid bar link - that one does. I use that style.

 

Edited March 25, 2023 by ri702bill

[953 nut 54,145]

12 hours ago, mjl111070@yahoo.com said:

It has a Tecumseh engine- probably not original I believe.

               I think you got a great deal. It could be the original engine, they came with a Tecumseh 75063B electric start engine.

Edited March 25, 2023 by 953 nut
fat finger

[ML3 1,085]

I have a plow on my 1984 C105. Will the rear axle bracket off the C105 fit the 654? I can see what you mean about a "short frame" plow. Probably put my snowblower on C105 & get a plow for 654. I'll have to figure out the slot hitch as I'll need it as well as need a regular 2" ball hitch for moving my trailers around. I'm thrilled with the purchase. 

 

I'll check the engine s/n to verify. It doesn't look like a possible replacement??? 

[wallfish 16,721]

Original 654 engines did not have a recoil starter on them but had a larger "bubble type" debris cover over a rope start cup. Back up for the electric start

The plow bracket should fit

Edited March 25, 2023 by wallfish

[ML3 1,085]

Thanks again everyone for the information. When he brings tractor next weekend & I get both them beside each other I'll figure out the snow blade. Probably just put the blower on the C105 at that time since it doesn't require the rear axle bracket. I'll use it if it fits the 654. Definitely wanna fix slot hitch so I can pull garden cart & also get a regular ball hitch that's high enough fory trailers

[wallfish 16,721]

You can lock the slot hitch up to a fixed position with a piece of steel or chain without using a new cable if you don't need it to raise and lower. You will need a piece of flat stock steel with holes to insert into that slot hitch so you can connect a garden cart to it.

Blower wouldn't perform very well on a 654 with a small engine like that anyway. Better to go with the C for the blower

The bigger C would also be a lot better for the ball hitch for pulling bigger trailers. The heavier engine will counter balance the weight better. Make sure the brake works well too so you can stop. If the band has any oil in it you can soak it in gasoline overnight. Even better is the rubber type band lining material rmaynard sells as it grips much better than the old stuff does.

[ri702bill 8,034]

1 hour ago, mjl111070@yahoo.com said:

Definitely wanna fix slot hitch so I can pull garden cart & also get a regular ball hitch that's high enough fory trailers

 Or - take the slot hitch off and use the C series welded drawbar type... IF you can get the hitch pin out....

[ML3 1,085]

2 hours ago, 953 nut said:

               I think you got a great deal. It could be the original engine, they came with a Tecumseh 75063B electric start engine.

Here's a pic of engine & I tried to get a good pic of engine id plate. I noticed it has provision for a rope back up pull start

[wallfish 16,721]

This is what the factory debris screen looks like.( Pic from the net.) Very difficult to find them but certainly not impossible. Not a big deal unless you are going for factory correct. Those original engines are pretty rare because they krap the bed so most are gone to the scrap yards. You might want to consider a repower with a different engine if you're not going for a factory correct tractor. The original engine can add quite a bit of value to the collector that restores to factory correct. They're a real PITA to rebuild

 

[ML3 1,085]

Got tractor today. Overall it seems to be in decent shape. Needs a few small things. Misc electrical connections need fixed, fuel shutoff/petcock has a very slight leak, choke cable stiff, hitch cable replacement. I'll change spark plug, air filter, oil, & trans fluid. 

 

Got the s/n for tractor. Ant way to determine when it was actually manufactured? 

 

Also the original selling dealer stickers are still present. One on engine & another on rear pan below seat

[ML3 1,085]

Spent most of day going thru 654 & making minor repairs as well as making a list of needs. Engine oil, trans fluid changed. Fixed & rewired electric. Somebody loved just twisting wires into screws & battery terminals. I used heat shrink connections & just replaced the old hard wiring. It runs great! Clutch seems to engage a bit harsh- it will pull front wheels! Lol. Seems like if I take off a little less that 1/2 throttle it's smoother. 

[wallfish 16,721]

5 minutes ago, mjl111070@yahoo.com said:

Clutch seems to engage a bit harsh- it will pull front wheels!

Rust or paint in the engine pulley groove will cause that. The belt slips around the engine pulley which is the clutching. As you release the pedal it should only partially engage as the belt gets tighter. If it's just grabbing instantly you need to find out why.

Is it a new belt too?

[ML3 1,085]

Not sure how new the belt is. It looks "newer" ?? I'll check the pulley. Probably just get a belt anyway. 

 

Thanks

[wallfish 16,721]

21 minutes ago, mjl111070@yahoo.com said:

Not sure how new the belt is. It looks "newer" ?? I'll check the pulley. Probably just get a belt anyway. 

 

Thanks

The belt needs to be cloth covered belt too. If it's a rubber belt it will grab quick too

[ML3 1,085]

It's definitely cloth covered belt. I'll pull off belt guard tomorrow & take a closer look at the pulley. Doesn't appear to have paint in grooves but hard to see until I pull belt & inspect pulley. Probably look at it tomorrow 

[Handy Don 11,820]

On 4/1/2023 at 11:20 PM, mjl111070@yahoo.com said:

It's definitely cloth covered belt. I'll pull off belt guard tomorrow & take a closer look at the pulley. Doesn't appear to have paint in grooves but hard to see until I pull belt & inspect pulley. Probably look at it tomorrow 

As @wallfish mentioned, rust in the pulley sheave is bad for smooth clutching and it’ll wear belts quickly. With the motor OFF, I “shoeshine” a strip of very fine emory cloth (800 or higher) in the groove to clean it up.