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jay bee

Need help with a snowblower

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jay bee

I would like to change the bearings out on the driveshaft but they are fighting me. This blower is a 1981 model, not that it makes a big difference. I’ve changed bearings and sprockets on several others and not had a problem but this one is fighting me. 
First problem is that after removing the roll pin from the bearing at the chain sprocket end of the driveshaft and loosening the bearing retainers at the pulley end of the driveshaft the driveshaft can not be driven out of the bearing. 
Second problem is the pulley itself. There are two set screws holding the pulley on the driveshaft. Got one out, the other one won’t budge, to the point that I think I have rounded the edges in the set screw out. 
The bearing at the pulley end of the driveshaft is free on the shaft and so is the drive sprocket for the chain. 
Could use some advice. 94FBBAA6-EFE8-457A-9199-4C65222353DC.jpeg.e37716522f235000750db4779976491e.jpeg21BC494B-B471-40EF-82E7-D07F106CCF4E.jpeg.71122fe00378c1162da1ebe473c31e25.jpegB781F69F-8564-440F-BF7C-15111E727564.jpeg.ff5e19fc11a43d50257b024ef5c1a40e.jpeg5E167993-4D73-4DD0-937B-9CE7F69D4F82.jpeg.725a358cf2f16892fe544241d118a31d.jpeg0ADD19CA-E7E3-46CB-B5D7-DFFBB71886D9.jpeg.4af8dae0c5020942a2ca1760368bf915.jpeg

 

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Ed Kennell

If I have room to get them in, I tend to use jack bolts to remove stuck pulleys and bearings.      

If set screw in the pulley is on the key, you may be able to push the pulley and key off using jack bolts between the pulley hub and bearing housing.

You could try the same method to remove the bearing on the other end.    Slide the sprocket back and fix it to the shaft with a couple weld spots that you grind off later.

Then use the jack bolts to push the shaft out of the bearing.

 

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jay bee

@Ed Kennell not to sound too dumb, what is a jack bolt?

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jay bee

Also, the set screw on the key came out but the one on the shaft is the one I can’t get out. 

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Ed Kennell
39 minutes ago, jay bee said:

what is a jack bolt?

Any hex head bolt, nut, and sleeve or washers that will fit between the parts you are trying to remove.  

 

This might explain how to use bolts as jacks to push a pulley off a shaft.    Push on the hub of the pully as close to the shaft as possible and use 2,3, or four equally spaced jack bolts.

 

104_1628.JPG.e5602bf06d8a0106f1662e70b85dabb3.JPG

Edited by Ed Kennell
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Ed Kennell
9 minutes ago, jay bee said:

Also, the set screw on the key came out but the one on the shaft is the one I can’t get out. 

You'll probably have to drill that one out to get the pulley off.

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jay bee
58 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

You'll probably have to drill that one out to get the pulley off.

Aren’t those set screws difficult to drill?  Is there a particular type of drill to use?

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Ed Kennell
21 minutes ago, jay bee said:

Aren’t those set screws difficult to drill?

Yes, but a carbide bit will cut although they are hard and easy to break.    Some have used a carbide tipped concrete bit.  Some have used left hand bits to back out a screw.  Some prefer a carbide burr and grind the screw out.

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wallfish
4 hours ago, jay bee said:

the other one won’t budge, to the point that I think I have rounded the edges in the set screw out.

You can try smashing a torx bit tight into the set screw's hole to try and get it out. It's about a 50/50 shot but worth the try instead of drilling. If it don't work then you can drill

Torx-Bits_T15-T20-T25-T30.jpg

 

 

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Ed Kennell

                                                     :text-yeahthat:    Or I have had some success using the next size hex bit, grinding a slight taper on the end, and driving it into the set screw.

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oldlineman

A little heat on the part that needs to come off may help by expanding it and breaking the rust weld. Bob

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peter lena

@jay bee  https://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-pipe-nipple-extractor-set-93822.html  this what you want along with kroil penetrant for a frozen plug , done a number of things to free up a blower , typically there is so much related drag / resistance to any movable spot , its a wonder it works like it does .re greased related bearings , with hi temp / stress grease , related belt pulleys , same regrease , might even add an idler chain sprocket to that buzzing spot . added stronger spring to idler pulley frame , detail grease  that frame for movement , super lube under that chute base , lots of improvement spots , can / should spin up by hand , at belt drive areas . also get some super lube into that cable so it moves without  resistance . just some ideas that I  used , eliminate  drag /  make everything move easily , your pto lever clutch drive should not be screaming at  drive start , thats your main feed back on , drag areas , pete  

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Ed Kennell

@peter lena    Pete,  I don't think  the smallest (1/8" pipe)  extractor) will fit in the head if a 1/4" set screw.

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peter lena

@Ed Kennell  thanks ed , with so many of the available  tools today , there is a lot of  off sizing , possible sizing with a related look / see . at my friends shop , its regular stuff  to encounter , nuts / bolts , fittings that don't match up with anything  , sae, metric , wentworth etc. expect things to be , not up to sinc , pete

 

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jay bee

So….I took all the good advice and knowledge from @Ed Kennell @wallfish and @oldlineman and tried to put it to good use. I used the jack bolts on the bearing. I used some heat along with the jack bolts although I only had map gas. I couldn’t get that bearing to even think about budging. Moved on to the pulley. Tried jamming the next size (27mm) torx bit into the set screw. Success!!!  Put a ratchet wrench on it and attempted to turn it.  SNAP!!!  Well, that didn’t work out so well but it seemed to go along with the rest of the luck I’ve been having. Got the broken torx bit out finally and got the drill ready to go. Drilled the set screw out of pulley and put some heat on it. The pulley is not budging either. Time to admit defeat. 
Got the driveshaft out of the snowblower with the pulley still attached to one end and the bearing still firmly attached to the other end. Took the whole thing down to a machine shop. They took a look and said “no problem”. They had a 6 ton press and started with one worker to press things apart. It ended with 4 workers, an acetylene torch, a 6 ton press and over one hour spent trying to get those two pieces off that shaft. We told them they could cut the bearing off if it would be easier, they said “no, this is a challenge now”.  They finally got both the bearing and the pulley off the shaft but they kept saying how they couldn’t believe the amount of effort that it took. 
Like I said earlier in this post, I’ve overhauled a few of these snowblowers befor and never had a big problem getting the bearings and pulleys off the shaft but this one kicked my butt. 
Thanks to the members here for all your good advice and hopefully I can return the favor sometime. 

Jim

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wallfish

Glad you finally got it.

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Pullstart

@jay bee I’m not sure what the machine shop cost you, but I am close and have quite a bit of tools available.  Next time… :handgestures-thumbupright:

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jay bee
17 hours ago, Pullstart said:

I’m not sure what the machine shop cost you,


Too much, but it was a last resort. Thanks for the offer, I will definitely keep you in mind next time. 

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jay bee

Just thought I’d follow up on the snowblower project. Got it all back together and a fresh coat of paint. New bearings, new idler sprockets, new chain sprocket, new tensioner pulleys and a new belt. I think it is now ready to install on the tractor and see how it runs. 4CA31743-C5A3-47C4-92D1-2BFA50F071C5.jpeg.cca6bc7688620151947b93eee8854cc1.jpeg2FF348BD-6F49-4768-9C7E-B4A43B87E9FA.jpeg.ca3590bd9d3dd50f07cb21d8d11ab0c1.jpeg61506027-58F0-48AB-A00F-73B3C88A6AF4.jpeg.a08a7a7fba8df7f9d3dcc6b26166b7b3.jpegEF8CA864-036A-4D91-92B9-122D977571B4.jpeg.03b370bb4486a44a8971d84a73b0088d.jpeg107055EA-622B-4BAD-BAE6-BA7B6D5AC9BC.jpeg.5cd94429b3461ef64dfcbfad1380e044.jpeg09B917A1-A604-4ECD-9966-67956C15A89F.jpeg.cd50b3902a6f673b6718d54e331086d2.jpegCB82AD90-195A-4FD8-886E-7817C23F8342.jpeg.dbc49fef0e5b200928ed48043f772b2d.jpeg026A0E50-B0D1-49E1-B514-9CB7C55E0C13.jpeg.10e0099cad9d72898a757eb3a1c58c79.jpeg04313958-A7FD-4FA6-9D52-CF902847904E.jpeg.2f863394d05615f7330e2f46154ced20.jpeg

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wallfish

That thing came out NICE !!!

Just in time for spring :hide:

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peter lena

@jay bee nice job on that !  done a few of those , on the idler / drive belt pulley frame , make sure  it is lubricated in those mount holes , and really benefitted with a slightly stronger spring pull , the free / easy moving frame an stiffer spring , super lube the chute base slide gasket, might even put a round knob on the chute lever rod end , works very well with mittens , sold this unit , gave the guy suggested maintenance  areas , lubricants , probably never get  looked at again ,  would spin by hand , pete 

 

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jay bee
35 minutes ago, wallfish said:

Just in time for spring :hide:

That seems to be the way I work!!!  ALWAYS BEHIND….

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jay bee

@peter lena  Thanks Pete. Those are some good pointers.  Jim
 

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Ed Kennell
2 hours ago, wallfish said:

That thing came out NICE !!!

                                           :text-yeahthat:   Super, and you even got wings on correctly.    :)

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jay bee
57 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

Super, and you even got wings on correctly.    :)

@Ed Kennell  Even a broken clock is right twice a day. Sometimes I just get lucky. 

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