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Mushrush

My new to me 312-8

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ebinmaine

:text-welcomeconfetti:

 

 

You'll find that to be an excellent worker for you.  

Good catch.  

 

 

The plow index rod can be made from 2 heim joints and a piece of rod. 

We just did one for my 1975 C160 Automatic Restoration.  

Highly recommend it.  

The heim joint takes all the slop and looseness out of the possibilities and makes the plow easier to pivot.

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Blasterdad

:text-welcomeconfetti:Look for ID sticker under the seat, if it's painted over lightly rub some brake fluid or nail polish remover over it & see if you can read it.

Edited by Blasterdad
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OldWorkHorse

:text-welcomeconfetti:

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Pullstart

:text-welcomeconfetti: And great machine!

 

Check out this Baseline checklist  thread if you are looking for any maintenance advice.   It would be a great idea to check the transmission fluid condition to tell if it’s been left outside for any extended periods.  If it’s milky or gross, a thorough flush is in order!

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Racinbob

:text-welcomeconfetti:

 

It looks to me that you have the parts to index the plow. What I don't see is the rear axle bracket to mount it and the lift arm. :)

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Blasterdad

Can you post a pic of the PTO side of you :wh:? Might be the camera angle but it looks like the deck belt is on wrong (twist in it). If it is the blades will spin backwards.

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Pullstart
15 minutes ago, Pullstart said:

:text-welcomeconfetti: And great machine!

 

Check out this Baseline checklist  thread if you are looking for any maintenance advice.   It would be a great idea to check the transmission fluid condition to tell if it’s been left outside for any extended periods.  If it’s milky or gross, a thorough flush is in order!


 @wildbill69 and @Keith Plett be sure to check out that link as well, for anything we might have missed in your posts!

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gwest_ca

Some had the tractor data decal under the front of the seat and later moved to under the left side of the seat both on the rear fender pan.

Post the numbers off the engine data plate including the serial number - sometimes we can ID the tractor model from them.

Maroon decals like you have 1985-1989

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953 nut

:WRS:

312-8 will get the job done for sure. Since it has a Magnum engine it would be a 1987 or newer up to 1990 when the black decals were introduced on the hood.

Edited by 953 nut
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Brockport Bill

i have had that 312-8 tractor model bought new since 1989 --- over 2,000 hours -- awesome machine - here's photo of my then 8 yr old son plowing with it first winter in 1989, plow photo of recently reconditioned plow blade, and recent photo 33 years later of tractor and plow, and our 37 inch side discharge mower we restored after 3 decades of use. I have also used with our tiller for garden and lawn plus pulled a roller to install our lawn -- machine does everything you will ask!

wh 1989 matt plowing.jpg

wh wrs 312 plow blade front.jpg

wh 312-8 wrs.jpg

37 inch restore.jpg

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Mushrush
2 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

:text-welcomeconfetti:

 

 

You'll find that to be an excellent worker for you.  

Good catch.  

 

 

The plow index rod can be made from 2 heim joints and a piece of rod. 

We just did one for my 1975 C160 Automatic Restoration.  

Highly recommend it.  

The heim joint takes all the slop and looseness out of the possibilities and makes the plow easier to pivot.

How long should the rod be? I'm guessing around 36 inches. And I'd probably have to tap the rod ends to fit the heim joints?

Edited by Mushrush
Misspelled
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Blasterdad
28 minutes ago, Mushrush said:

How long should the rod be? I'm guessing around 36 inches. And I'd probably have to tap the rod ends to fit the heim joints?

 

You can use a piece of thread-all, put a joint on one end of the rod & bolt it to the front of the plow.

Angle plow all the way to the left.

Bolt the other joint to the bottom of the control lever.

Move the control lever so it's back as far as it can go without hitting the footrest or interfereing with the brake pedal.

This will be the length to cut the rod, allowowing about an inch of thread to go into the joint. 

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23 Reo

The 12hp 8 speeds are great. My C-125 runs a 48" deck with ease. You'll be happy.

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Mushrush
6 hours ago, Blasterdad said:

:text-welcomeconfetti:Look for ID sticker under the seat, if it's painted over lightly rub some brake fluid or nail polish remover over it & see if you can read it.

I think I found it. Exactly where you said it was. Luckily, he taped over it when he repainted  it

IMG_20230316_185130576.jpg

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CCW

I have the same tractor.  It does everything and more.

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Gary S Minnesota

I have had mine for 26 years.  As was said before, wonderful machine.  1500 plus hours on her.  Blows snow every winter and mows grass every summer.  Just keeps running like the day I brought it home.  Keep the oil clean ( I change Spring and Fall ). and be sure you keep all of the grease fittings well lubed.  You’ll be very happy with it!

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ohiofarmer

I picked up a nice 314 -8 and the only change is a bigger front tire.that makes it a 400 series in all but the name i was told.  [i am no expert on that] I can say from the perspective of the 300 and 400 series-- Take off the belt cover and make absolutely sure that the plastic bushing that goes around the belt tightening idler pulley rod is in good shape. if it wears through, it is steel on steel wearing an oblong hole in the support frame. Mine was worn so bad that it took a flanged oilite bushing and a lot of work to replace it. Maybe the regular members get tired of me repeating this stuff, but newer members need to know about it.

  Probably the most under engineered part on the machine that is unfortunately hidden from sight. The fact that you have a manual transmission gives you a beast of a machine. Enjoy.

Edited by ohiofarmer

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JCM

One of the best that ever came out of South Bend Indiana IMHO. Simple and super reliable.  Good luck with it.

P1012403.JPG

20190914_144254.jpg

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