new to wheel horses and need help

[wildbill69 7]

I just bought my first wheel horse a 312-A, and I was riding around my yard and it spit and sputtered and quit. I am not good with electrical but I am trying, I replaced the start solenoid and the same result nothing. I took the ignition switch out and ohmed it 1 of the circuits got a reading, so I ordered a new switch. Is there anything else I can try?

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,041]

Before you spend another dime get the proper wiring diagrams so you can determine where the fault is.

What is the model and serial number of the tractor?

What is the model and serial number of the engine?

Need these to link you to the correct diagrams.

[wallfish 16,995]

Maybe some more details on what happened and what you are experiencing now. 

It was running perfectly fine and then spit and sputtered? Or never really running right and finally died?

Now, it will not turn over at all to try and start?  Or, it's turning over but will not start?

The tractor has safety switches. If the PTO lever is engaged it will not start. Or it will cut off the ignition if you leave the seat with it engaged. The pedal should be pushed down or it may not start

[oliver2-44 9,743]

Definitely check the safety switches.  

[Pullstart 62,846]

  Are you comfortable with your volt/ohm meter?  Switches have continuity (contact) or not, lights, and other energy consumers have resistance (ohms).  If you can give us the details we need from your meter, we’ll be able to help accurately troubleshoot your machine with you 

[ineedanother 1,369]

Sounds to me it might be as much a fuel issue rather than electrical. I would have a good look at the fuel level, fuel filter, and even the gas cap believe it or not. That fuel cap is vented (center hand nut on the cap) and if air can't enter the tank it will become a vacuum and prevent fuel from getting to the carburetor.

[Achto 27,570]

 

Before you throw more parts at this tractor we need some more info to help you diagnose the issue.

[WHX?? 48,815]

 take pics of the ID plates and post them up. 

[953 nut 55,211]

All 321-A Wheel Horses built in or after 1987 have a magneto ignition and do not require any power to the ignition system. If you do put 12 volts to the ignition system it will let out a puff of smoke and cost you more money.

Please don't throw any more money at the tractor until you know what is and isn't working.

Remove the spark plug, lay it on the engine cylinder head, crank the engine over and see if you have spark.

Remove the fuel line from the carburetor, place it in a container to catch the gas and have someone crank the engine while you hold the hose in the can, are you getting gas.

We are here to help but we need a bit more information, the Model number is on a tag under the operator's seat.

[wildbill69 7]

 here is the tag and now it will bot even turn over with the key switch, but I can jump the solenoid and it will turn over just fine. Before this it was running like a top.

 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,041]

Download this file. Each circuit has it's own diagram so easy to follow

This link will take you to 2 pages of files we have on this model

 https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?&q=21-12ke03&type=downloads_file&page=1&search_and_or=or&sortby=relevancy

[953 nut 55,211]

14 minutes ago, wildbill69 said:

now it will bot even turn over with the key switch,

Is your PTO off and the parking brake set?

[wildbill69 7]

yes the pto is off and the parking brake is set. I will look at it some more tomorrow, because it is in the middle of my back yard.

[Blasterdad 2,692]

2 hours ago, ineedanother said:

Sounds to me it might be as much a fuel issue rather than electrical. I would have a good look at the fuel level, fuel filter, and even the gas cap believe it or not. That fuel cap is vented (center hand nut on the cap) and if air can't enter the tank it will become a vacuum and prevent fuel from getting to the carburetor.

                                                      

That was my first thought too, sounds like it's not getting fuel, put some gas in a spray bottle & squirt some in the carb & see if it fires, DON'T use starting fluid...

 

 

[Pullstart 62,846]

10 hours ago, wildbill69 said:

now it will bot even turn over with the key switch, but I can jump the solenoid and it will turn over just fine

@ineedanother @Blasterdad
 

That should eliminate a fuel issue fellas if the key won’t roll it over. 

 

@wildbill69 be sure to focus on safeties.  Seat switch as well as PTO and brake, ignition switch, and the wiring and any connections through each circuit could be in peril after so many years of use.

[953 nut 55,211]

12 minutes ago, Pullstart said:

11 hours ago, wildbill69 said:

now it will bot even turn over with the key switch, but I can jump the solenoid and it will turn over just fine

@ineedanother @Blasterdad
 

That should eliminate a fuel issue fellas if the key won’t roll it over.

He said it will turn over, didn't hear him say it started.

11 hours ago, wildbill69 said:

jump the solenoid and it will turn over just fine.

Take a small jumper wire from the small terminal of the solenoid (probably has a blue wire on it) and touch it to the "+" terminal of your battery. If the engine turns over then the solenoid is doing its job. If not then put on that new one you got.

14 hours ago, wildbill69 said:

I was riding around my yard and it spit and sputtered and quit.

Your solenoid has nothing to do with the loss of power and sputtering so once we know it is working we can move on.

 

Edited March 16, 2023 by 953 nut

[Blasterdad 2,692]

10 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

11 hours ago, wildbill69 said:

 but I can jump the solenoid and it will turn over just fine

 

 

@Pullstart I was going by what he said earlier, I should have been more specific, as long as the key is in the run position & check that there's power to the coil.

[953 nut 55,211]

14 hours ago, wildbill69 said:

I took the ignition switch out and ohmed it 1 of the circuits got a reading, so I ordered a new switch.

What ignition switch number did you order? Here is some information on your switch and what terminals should make contact in various positions.

If you have the correct switch all is good, If the switch you have on order is anything but the correct 103991 or 111215 do not use it.

6 minutes ago, Blasterdad said:

 

@Pullstart I was going by what he said earlier, I should have been more specific, as long as the key is in the run position & check that there's power to the coil.

This is a magneto ignition, if you put power to the coil of the magneto you will fry it.

[Blasterdad 2,692]

10 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

This is a magneto ignition, if you put power to the coil of the magneto you will fry it.

Once again I should have been more specific, I meant getting spark. 

[Ed Kennell 38,163]

After reading this, I saw three symptoms.

 

1.  sputtering after runnnig OK                                         failing magneto kill contact in switch

2.  a switch that showed resistance between contacts        failing switch

3.  will not turn over with switch, but will by jumping the solenoid    failing switch