Cylinder head Hand Planing Demo

[ebinmaine 67,460]

 

 

 

 

[WHX?? 48,815]

Should be using wet sanding EB. Or were you?  Bit more messy but carries the trash away. 

What grit paper? 

I mist it with paint to see how it's going. 

Edited March 14, 2023 by WHX??

[daveoman1966 3,751]

I've done the same thing...on a marble surface plate with 400 grit paper wet with oil.      

[WHX?? 48,815]

Oil Dave? Us poor people use a glass. 

[ebinmaine 67,460]

31 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

Should be using wet sanding EB. Or were you?  Bit more messy but carries the trash away. 

What grit paper? 

I mist it with paint to see how it's going. 

We don't use wet. Pretty messy.. and the counter is tough to clean up from a fluid spill.  

 

We use a stiff brush or even a file cleaning brass brush to keep the sandpaper clean. 

 

For grit we start at 150 or 180. 

Go to 220. 

Finish up at 400.  

 

 

[Pullstart 62,843]

Some day, we’ll see how well a cylinder head cleans up on a lathe, or a mill!  

[ebinmaine 67,460]

I'll be sending a few out soon.  

 

👍👍👍👍

[daveoman1966 3,751]

6 hours ago, WHX?? said:

Oil Dave? Us poor people use a glass. 

Yep...  About 30+ years ago, I bought at an auction 4 black-marble slabs   1" x 14" x 24".  Surely a piece of glass 1/2" thick or so could be used.  

[Ed Kennell 38,162]

I use emery cloth on a 1/2" thick piece of glass with water.       I do one series rotating the head as shown in Erics video.     Then hold the glass vertically over a bucket and  rinse the emery cloth with water.    Rotate the glass 45 degrees and repeat the series.   Rotating the glass will expose new cutting edges of the abrasive.

I can usually see the low areas, but for a final check, I use a black ink marker to coat the surface.

 

[ri702bill 8,316]

I start with 220 grit wet-or-dry on top of the cast iron table saw. Used wet only if there are surface imperfections on the mating surface, otherwise done dry. Finish with 400 grit - but I use a figure eight motion, stopping to check progress every 10 seconds or so for all of it.

 

So Eric - were you the "hand model" in the video??? 

Edited March 15, 2023 by ri702bill

[ebinmaine 67,460]

6 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

I start with 220 grit wet-or-dry on top of the cast iron table saw. Used wet only if there are surface imperfections on the mating surface, otherwise done dry. Finish with 400 grit - but I use a figure eight motion, stopping to check progress every 10 seconds or so for all of it.

 

So Eric - were you the "hand model" in the video??? 

 

Hand model!  Good gravy, no.

My bear paws are slightly larger than that.

 

 

We used to do a figure 8 / ♾️ motion like you talk about but I find that if we don't rotate the work piece like you see Trina doing there was a tendency to remove more material from one side or the other depending on how it was held.

 

 

[WHX?? 48,815]

18 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

on top of the cast iron table saw. 

Let's make sure we re-oil the saw!

I've got one to do now will try Ed's method. 

11 hours ago, Pullstart said:

Some day, we’ll see how well a cylinder head cleans up on a lathe, or a mill!  

I was thinking a surface grinder?

[Ed Kennell 38,162]

20 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

 

if we don't rotate the work piece like you see Trina doing there was a tendency to remove more material from one side or the other depending on how it was held.

 

 

 

                                 Yes, constantly rotate the head.

[Pullstart 62,843]

13 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

I was thinking a surface grinder?

The image is surely click bait, but it got me curious.

 

 

[lynnmor 7,305]

1 hour ago, Pullstart said:

The image is surely click bait, but it got me curious.

 

I didn't realize it was your video till I saw the sandals. 

 

About grinding aluminum, it can be tricky to do as the grinding wheel can quickly load up and cause damage to the head.  One would need to select the correct wheel and coolant, then take light cuts.  In my opinion, it should only be attempted by a well experienced machinist. 

[ri702bill 8,316]

2 hours ago, lynnmor said:

I didn't realize it was your video till I saw the sandals. 

 

About grinding aluminum, it can be tricky to do as the grinding wheel can quickly load up and cause damage to the head.  One would need to select the correct wheel and coolant, then take light cuts.  In my opinion, it should only be attempted by a well experienced machinist. 

With a HIGH risk of the KABAM factor - if the wheel loads up at speed, the forces change, stressing the grinding wheel... and then, kabam. - the wheel is destroyed as it explodes, the work is damaged, the underwear is soiled.... seen it before

Bill

[lynnmor 7,305]

Today I am grinding stainless steel and that has Oh Crap moments similar to aluminum, but not quite as bad.  These four 2-1/2” square parts are less than 1/4” thick with a tolerance of +/- .0002”, getting them flat is fun.

 

Greasy Pete would like this project since it is a machine to test grease color.

[ri702bill 8,316]

I've dealt with some grades of stainless flat stock that looked like hot rolled - a lot of scale, not flat at all, and sheared edges. Luckily, the material was ordered oversize to allow cleanup. A true PITA.