A-Z repair hub

[mrc 812]

hello men,

    i purchased a couple repair hubs from A-Z tractor awhile back.   last storm i was plowing with my old C160 8 speed.  i was nearly done when one of the hubs broke.  i removed the broken hub and installed the A-Z repair hub.  was wondering if other people had tried these repair hubs?  i hope it holds up as we are expecting snow tonight.  

   i would think full length keyways would be stronger.  why did wh use woodruff keys?   

regards

mike

 

 

 

[Ed Kennell 38,164]

57 minutes ago, mrc said:

why did wh use woodruff keys? 

Less expense to machine in the axle is my guess.

What caused your hub to break?

The A-Z collet hub should work fine.    I don't know if Lincoln supplies a torqueing procedure, but I would retorque several times during break-in till they get seated properly.

Edited March 14, 2023 by Ed Kennell

[Pullstart 62,846]

Being that his are two piece, it is also clamping onto the axle shaft with force, instead of a set screw.  Should be wonderful!

[mrc 812]

ed,

  i can tell you that i checked the set screw in the fall and it was tight.  the hub that broke was the thin, star type of hub. it only had one setscrew.  i know a hub with two set screws is better. what is really bizarre to me is i could find no trace of the key???  the hub was more or less intact on the shaft.  it was badly cracked and by the time i got it off it was in four pieces.  the main break was right at the set screw.

i believe the A-Z hubs are steel not cast iron so they should be stronger and not as prone to breaking.  i did use anti-sieze when installing the repair hub. 

i have plowed with this tractor for years.

[mrc 812]

ed,

  it took me a few minutes to find the repair hubs in my garage.  they were in the original shipping box.  i did not see any torque procedure.  i tightened the collet in a star pattern.  your idea of rechecking/retightening is a good one.  i will do that.  thank you.  i got them very tight as i was using an allen driver with a rachet, not just an 'L' shaped allen key.  

[ri702bill 8,318]

His hub design is based on a widely used industry standard - the Taper-Loc hub. Used for over 50 years to mount gears, pulleys, and sprockets. Best part - you use the threaded holes to jack the unit apart for EASY hub removal....

Edited March 14, 2023 by ri702bill

[Ed Kennell 38,164]

7 hours ago, mrc said:

i did not see any torque procedure.

This surprises me that no procedure was supplied.

Here is the socket head bolt torque chart.       It is best to lubricate the bolt threads and use the correct torque to insure maxium axle clamping force.

 

 

Moly disulfide is the best lube for threads and it should be worked into the root of the thread and under the head of the bolt.

 

 

 

 

Edited March 14, 2023 by Ed Kennell

[mrc 812]

ed,   i will double check the box the repair hubs came in.  maybe i missed some torque procedure.  i did use a dab of anti-sieze on the bolts as well as slathered the axle.

 

bill,  the 6 bolts that clamp the hub onto the axle are very small diameter.  cannot remember the exact size right now. i think i was using a 3/16th allen driver.  not sure if i understand how those bolts would jack the hub off the axle.

 

i can report that the snow today was an absolute !@#$%^&!    it was like moving wet concrete.  i could push the snow just so far with the C160.  then i had to push the large snow piles off the driveway with my old 1979 chevy K20.

 

i plan in the next few days to recheck the repair hub and see if it loosened up or not

 

regards

mike

[Snowmobileaddict 403]

I just ordered some of these to install on my tractor.  I'm looking at the photos and I cannot seem to discern how you use the threaded holes on the two parts to "jack" them apart (as mentioned above) to separate and remove the hubs for servicing, etc.  Could someone help explain it to me?

 

To force the pieces together and clamp the axle shaft, I see that you use the 3 screws that thread into the larger outer wheel hub ring .  But then there are 3 more holes that are threaded only on the smaller inner axle hub piece that seem like they align with smooth through-holes on the larger wheel hub ring (maybe they don't line up).  I also see a photo with the system all mounted up with 3 screws holding the kit together and another with all 6.  I just cannot see how you use the inner screws to separate the system from the shaft for future service.  I could see that you could jack the pieces apart if there were no unthreaded through-holes on the larger wheel hub ring.  That way the screws would bottom out and push the two pieces apart.  

 

Thanks for the help.  I'm sure I'm just missing something obvious.

 

 

 

 

Edited April 30, 2023 by Snowmobileaddict

[Ed Kennell 38,164]

8 hours ago, Snowmobileaddict said:

Could someone help explain it to me?

I'm just guessing here....no experience.   But it appears to me the threaded holes in the two halves need to be aligned when assembled.   The two are bolted together with six smaller thru bolts and nuts.    To jack apart, three screws are screwed in from both sides making contact with each other to jack it apart.

Edited April 30, 2023 by Ed Kennell

[squonk 41,097]

Screws go into the non threaded holes in the smaller piece and thread into the threaded holes in the larger piece to clamp it together. To remove, take the screws out and thread them into the threaded holes of the outer piece. They will contact a solid area of the larger piece and push it inward off of the smaller hub

 

 

 

Edited April 30, 2023 by squonk

[Snowmobileaddict 403]

Thanks!  That explains it well.  Looking forward to my repair hubs arriving!

 

Edited April 30, 2023 by Snowmobileaddict

[Ed Kennell 38,164]

2 hours ago, Snowmobileaddict said:

Looking forward to my repair hubs arriving!

Please post pics when you get it.       I am interested to see if the large part has just the three tapped holes or three tapped and three clearance holes and if it is assembled with three bolts or six bolts and nuts.

[squonk 41,097]

22 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

Please post pics when you get it.       I am interested to see if the large part has just the three tapped holes or three tapped and three clearance holes and if it is assembled with three bolts or six bolts and nuts.

Mosey on over to Lincoln's spot at the show Ed. He probably will have them there. I was looking at them last year and they are HEAVY DUTY! I wouldn't hesitate to use one if needed.

[mrc 812]

thanks for the video squonk!    i get it now!    never said i was the brightest guy

[Snowmobileaddict 403]

Looking forward to getting this mounted up rigtht away.  Build on these is BEEFY. 

 

After taking a look in person I can see why I was a bit confused at first how these worked.  The larger ring weldment does have an extra set of through-holes that are not tapped and at first glance in the stock photos it appeared as though they would align with the threaded jack-screw holes that are tapped into the gripping bushing,  I can assuure you that these are extra holes on the larger weldment an aren't used for anything. 

 

The 3 long screws draw the 2 pieces together when threaded into the tapped holes on the larger ring weldment and those same screws are also be used in the threaded holes on the gripping bushing to jack the assembly apart since they bottom out on the larger weldment and do not align with those extra through-holes. 

 

Lastly, just as I figured, there are three extra shorty socket head screws.  These are simply used as place holders in the threaded jack screw holes on the gripping bushing.  Keeping these little screws in place will prevent the jack screw hole threads from getting fouled with dirt or corrosion. Thats all those are for.

 

 

 

[Snowmobileaddict 403]

All mounted up and ready to rock and roll.  Install was a snap.  Just had to lightly dress the axle shafts with some 220 grit paper to make em smooth at the keyway and other jam bolt spots.  Slid these on and torqued the socket heads to spec.  One thing I noticed that I dont htink will matter becasue of how snug these get when locked on, the set screw that is suppoed to press down on the 1/4" key, cannot actualy contact the key since it sits too far out on the bushing.  Here is a picture of what I'm descrtibing.  The axle keyway doesn't extend far enough out on the axle shaft to allow the set screw to press on it.

 

Other than that, fit an finish is excellent on my 522xi.

 

Edited May 5, 2023 by Snowmobileaddict

[Lee1977 6,658]

I bought 2 of Lincoln replace hubs a while back and put them on the Raider. I have maybe 5 or 6 miles on them. I just retighten them they all moved just a little, but the hubs are still aligned with the end of the axle as I installed them.

[Snowmobileaddict 403]

So, Lee, you’ve noticed that these slip a tiny bit with respect to the axle but don’t slip in or out?  
 

I’ll have to recheck the socket head screws after some hours.

[Lee1977 6,658]

On 5/6/2023 at 1:31 PM, Snowmobileaddict said:

So, Lee, you’ve noticed that these slip a tiny bit with respect to the axle but don’t slip in or out?  
 

I’ll have to recheck the socket head screws after some hours.

I don't think the hub moved but I was able to tighten the three screws just a little. My keyways were good and I used new keys when installing the hubs.