power anle snow plow

[Leland 16]

I have a 312-8 and I have a plow on it and also a snow cab. problem is the lever when angle all the way to one way is outside the cab because on the right side there isn't any extension of the cab like there is on the otherside for the lift. There is a zipper at the point where the angle lever is but I do no not want to have the lever outside. So I installed a short metal bracket to shorten the rod and now the handle is all inside. Problem is the handle rubes on the shaft for the brake. So I cut away part of the handle to make room for the shaft and I do not think I can cut anymore or it may break. Has anybody modified this situation. I may be able to cut more away and then weld a piece onto where the little that would be left as for some reason it is cut away on the top at that point. 

I thought about trying to istall a power angle on that but that would be a lttle costly. 

[Ed Kennell 39,334]

I altered mine to get it inside the cab on my 520H.       I sawed a vee in the lever about 3/4 of the way thru at several key places, then bent the lever to the shape I needed.

 

After I had the shape I needed, I welded the vees and added a plate on the side of each vee.    I used a cable guided by several small eye bolts to operate the angle locking pin.

[Leland 16]

15 hours ago, Ed Kennell said:

I altered mine to get it inside the cab on my 520H.       I sawed a vee in the lever about 3/4 of the way thru at several key places, then bent the lever to the shape I needed.

 

After I had the shape I needed, I welded the vees and added a plate on the side of each vee.    I used a cable guided by several small eye bolts to operate the angle locking pin.

ok that is an idea as with mine up high it is a little to much in the way of my leg and also the lever for the power take off. But you see where yours at the lever is almost or maybe touching the brake rod. that is what mine does and when I hit the brake it does not want to return till I raise the blade. I notched the rod there = see pics. and the one cloosets to the rod appears to miss it but for some reason when hit brake it rubs it and holds the pedal down a little untill I backup and raise the plow. Kind of hard for me to get a good picture like you did with the cab on . I also had to bend the lever 2 places 1 to the side and then higher the other way to miss the power take off lever. I also had to move the eye bolt that holds the cable to release the plow to angle it. I may have to weld a plate on where it is notched and then notch it more to make it work . I do like your idea of having it down like you did that eliminates the problem at the power take off lever and my leg. 

Edited March 2, 2023 by Leland

[Ed Kennell 39,334]

15 minutes ago, Leland said:

I may have to weld a plate on where it is notched and then notch it more to make it work

Yeah, it appears the factory notch is on the wrong side for your application.    I would  make a plate that fills in the the factory notch, then grind to clear the brake.

[ebinmaine 69,084]

19 hours ago, Leland said:

thought about trying to istall a power angle

@Handy Don and I have babbled about this at least once.

I have an aftermarket lever and a wheel horse cylinder already. Some of the hoses may be too.

 

 

Surplus Center would be a good place for you to look for parts if you were inclined to continue the thought process of a hydraulic power angle.

 

One of my biggest concerns would be, do I still need to run the lock pin in the middle of the plow if I am running a hydraulic cylinder just off to the side?

If I did need to leave the lock and, how would I release it?

 

@Ed Kennell on a standard manual style lever like I still have now I do like that cable idea. What did you use for a cable?

[Ed Kennell 39,334]

1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

What did you use for a cable?

I use garage door cables.   They have a swaged loop in one end and I use a cable clamp on the end I cut to size.    I also use these cables for rear lifts.

[Handy Don 12,737]

On 3/1/2023 at 3:56 PM, Leland said:

I thought about trying to istall a power angle on that but that would be a lttle costly. 

 

22 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

@Handy Don and I have babbled about this at least once.

In short, it isn’t the force needed to move the blade that’s the issue--its what it takes to hold it in position for which one needs either a mechanical lock (which we already have) or a very strong actuator and mounting.

 

For an unlocked pivot system, I did some of the math on estimated unbalanced loading and impacts on the blade (i.e where there is force on only one side of the blade pivot) to get some idea of the mechanism needed. I also looked closely at other GT plows that have power angles. Net: actuator would need to withstand impacts of at least 2,000 lbs to avoid damage and have a mounting similarly capable. Typical GTs use a 3” diameter hydraulic cylinder with a robust control valve and heavy mounting hardware for this. None I found are direct electric actuators (too fragile).

 

For a locking pivot system, the trick is to synchronize the lock release with the powered angling using interlocks to prevent trying to pivot a locked blade and to warn of trying to plow with an unlocked blade. So the control system gets complicated.

Edited March 3, 2023 by Handy Don

[ebinmaine 69,084]

21 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

For a locking pivot system, the trick is to synchronize the lock release with the powered angling using interlocks to prevent trying to pivot a locked blade and to warn of trying to plow with an unlocked blade. So the control system gets complicated

Some mechanical aptitude and experience would help with listening for a snap of the lock pin... But... In a noisy area that wouldn't work. 

Also, it could be a fair learning curve to know when to stop the movement of the plow as it angles.   

 

 

[Leland 16]

Well the power angle does sound like be  a little to much to get into as I have had power angle on a truck and never thought to much about the pressure. 

I think if I do anything be like was suggested to weld in a piece and the cut out the lever some more . I wondered why the cut out was on the top as there isn't anthing there for it to apply to. 

It is only a little problem when angled the 1 way as the 1 picture shows that and I cannot understand why when angled the problem way that it even hits . 

I may even cut the lever so when it is angled it is below the power take off. on the pics. but that may be a little difficut to move but I do like the first guys the way he cut it and it is on the floor you might say. The pics. showing the the fingers / thumb shows where the handle and the power take off lever is. The left angle = top one as it is below the power take off lever is the problem one. Center one is to the right angle and lever is all the way to cab  and other one close to the power take off is straight. There is one other option = never plow to the left. Ha Ha

Edited March 2, 2023 by Leland

[ebinmaine 69,084]

4 hours ago, Ed Kennell said:

I use garage door cables.   They have a swaged loop in one end and I use a cable clamp on the end I cut to size.    I also use these cables for rear lifts.

 

So you're eliminating the triangular pivot to run a solid piece of cable from top of handle to the pull point for the pin?

Eyelets to hold the cable?

 

[Ed Kennell 39,334]

43 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

So you're eliminating the triangular pivot to run a solid piece of cable from top of handle to the pull point for the pin?

Eyelets to hold the cable?

 

No eric, I still use the solid wire and triangle pivot at the bottom.   Really no reason to change that since it's a straight line.   The cable works to follow the bends in the upper lever.

Yes, I use small eyelets as guides for the cable and also add a small turnbuckle at the top to fine tune the cable length.

[ebinmaine 69,084]

7 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

use the solid wire and triangle pivot at the bottom.   Really no reason to change that since it's a straight line. 

Ok ok ok ok. 

I see.  

 

I ask because I've been pondering changing Trina's snowplow frame over to that cable type pull.  

Seems like it would be a LOT easier to mount/dismount the frame if that was flexible.  

 

[Ed Kennell 39,334]

2 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Seems like it would be a LOT easier to mount/dismount the frame if that was flexible. 

I agree, unhooking and rehooking that upper solid wire when you remove the lever to get the plow frame off and on can be a challenge.    The flex cable solves that problem.