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Tonytoro416

5060 six speed question

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Tonytoro416

I recently tore down our 5060 transmission assessed the damage and began gathering parts.  It’s taken some time to source odds and ends. I realized and had forgot that the in the transmission case to help you position the detent ball had a broken off set screw in it.  I got it out and realized that it’s supposed to be a drive in freeze plug style deal that goes in there.  Someone has tapped it 1/4-20 at some point.  Question is do you guys see any harm in putting in a pan head bolt or another set screw there ?

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ebinmaine

I wouldn't hesitate a heartbeat to clean that threaded hole out really well, put a dab of silicone on another set screw, and put that right back in there.

 

 

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Tonytoro416

That’s why I was thinking too but I thought well maybe it serves another purpose I am not aware of.  Pretty common theme lately ME NOT BEING AWARE 😂

thanks EB

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Tonytoro416

While I got you Eric   Are the retainers for wheelhorse Pto generally the same ?

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Racinbob

Like Eric said, a setscrew will be fine but don't use a bolt. It can't protrude from the case. :)

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Tonytoro416

I thought of that and makes me wonder if that’s why what was in there was broke off.  Hit something and knocked the head off of it or something 

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Tonytoro416

Luckily it broke off and left a little protrusion and I was able to take small punch and unthread it out of there 

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Racinbob

It's hard to say what's been done to it over the years. Some guys just put a dab of grease in it and that's it. It gets covered by the plate on the back of the frame. :)

Edited by Racinbob
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Racinbob
6 minutes ago, Tonytoro416 said:

While I got you Eric   Are the retainers for wheelhorse Pto generally the same ?

What retainer are you referring to? What PTO do you have?

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Tonytoro416

Yea that’s right.  Like I said this transmission has kinda wore on me over the last month.  Lot of part chasing. Part number crossing all that fun stuff. I’m ready to put it back together and get it off my welding table which poses another problem lol. Leads back to me being UNAWARE a lot lately.  I appreciate you guys no doubt 

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Tonytoro416
1 minute ago, Racinbob said:

What retainer are you referring to? What PTO do you have?

The little retainer plates.  2 plates four bolts.  I’m not sure what PTO it is   Thinking it’s from a raider.  Dad is wanting to put it on the Tecumseh engine instead of the electric clutch 

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Achto
26 minutes ago, Tonytoro416 said:

Question is do you guys see any harm in putting in a pan head bolt or another set screw there ?

 

I always tap the hole part way through to 5/18-18 and install a set screw. Stopping the treads part way through give the set screw a stopiing point & helps it seal.

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Racinbob

If you're talking the bolts going into the block I doubt it. I would be very surprised if the Kohler and the Tecky were the same. 

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squonk

1/4" flange head bolts.I think 3/4" long

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Tonytoro416

Okay 👍 

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Tonytoro416

134273EA-83A6-4D61-AAA3-7952A6216166.png

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Achto

If you have the means, I like to drill & tap a hole in the bottom of the case ahead of the hump. This allows you to drain the case without raising the front end to the moon. 1/8 pipe thread is plenty big enough.

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Tonytoro416

That is a good idea    I was in maintenance the last 10 years before my job in agriculture now. I believe I still have some taps laying around lol

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Racinbob
15 minutes ago, Tonytoro416 said:

134273EA-83A6-4D61-AAA3-7952A6216166.png

 

Those are the bearing race retainers, They bolt through the clutch plate directly into the block. Like I said, I doubt that they will work on a Tecky but I could be wrong. :)

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Pullstart
1 hour ago, Racinbob said:

It's hard to say what's been done to it over the years. Some guys just put a dab of grease in it and that's it. It gets covered by the plate on the back of the frame. :)


I’ve used RTV as well.  It seals better than grease alone and still cleans out easy.  :handgestures-thumbupright:

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ri702bill
1 hour ago, Pullstart said:

I’ve used RTV as well.  It seals better than grease alone and still cleans out easy.  :handgestures-thumbupright:

I'm partial to using the non-hardening #2 Perma-goo myself. Seals well, does not harden in place, unlike the #1 version....

 

In the "for what it's worth" department...... Getting the second detent ball into position so that the shift fork can be inserted can be a tedious PITA. Some folks use a small Allen wrench for that, I found it way easier to use a flat blade screwdriver that is just a tad smaller than the size of the hole. It allows you to get the fork started in front of the ball easier.....

Bill

Edited by ri702bill
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Lee1977
2 hours ago, Racinbob said:

 

Those are the bearing race retainers, They bolt through the clutch plate directly into the block. Like I said, I doubt that they will work on a Tecky but I could be wrong. :)

Make sure the thickness of the metal clutch plate and the space behind the grove in the bearing race match. They changed the metal thickness on later model clutch plates. A later model clutch plate and older bearing race will destroy the c-shaped retainers.

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Tonytoro416

Copy that.  I’ll have to get a closer look at what he is wanting to use 

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JimSraj

After I fought with that second detent ball for longer than I’d like to talk about I decided to try a piece of small diameter steel tubing. It worked like a charm. The tubing was probably 1/8” or so. The curve of the ball found a bit of purchase in the end of the tubing and a small dab of grease kept it there. Don’t forget to move the shift fork shaft so the first ball is in a detent on it. 

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