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TC10284

PTO Trunnion stuck and 42" Rear Discharge Stops Cutting Easily

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TC10284

Got a 42" rear discharge on a 416-8 with K341 engine. Engine runs fine. Just that the 42" rear discharge slows down and stops cutting easily in thicker grass. Moreso than it should on any other 42" or 48" WH mower deck I've ever used (upwards of 40). 

 

The mule drive belt is not loose. The PTO, mule drive, and blades spins with ease when I turn it by hand or pull the mule drive belt by hand. 

Blades are sharp. PTO clutch pad does not look too thin.

 

The only other thought I have is the trunnion needs to be rotated inward to tighten it. The problem is that it is stuck.

I haven't worked on it much, but I have started by spraying WD40 on it and probably going to end up resorting to using heat to get it hot and hopefully break it free. 

The threads on the rod itself are not really rusty at all, but the trunnion is definitely stuck in place though. 

 

How do I keep the rod itself from twisting or bending without taking it out of the tractor? The one time I've needed to get the trunnion unstuck in the past, the end of the PTO rod broke off instead of the trunnion coming unstuck. 

 

Thanks!

Edited by TC10284

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8ntruck

Sounds like the same issue I had on my deck recently.  Turns out that the 'C' clip on the outside of the stub shaft in the PTO bell had failed and came out of the groove in the shaft.  When this happened, the stub shaft slid inside of the bearing in the PTO bell instead of pushing on the PTO bell to engage the clutch.

 

Good luck.

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TC10284
3 minutes ago, 8ntruck said:

Sounds like the same issue I had on my deck recently.  Turns out that the 'C' clip on the outside of the stub shaft in the PTO bell had failed and came out of the groove in the shaft.  When this happened, the stub shaft slid inside of the bearing in the PTO bell instead of pushing on the PTO bell to engage the clutch.

 

Good luck.

 

I'll check on this. 

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Ed Kennell

You may try to double nut the threaded end of the rod.    Then work the trunnion both directions as you hold the double nut.

 

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TC10284
10 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

You may try to double nut the threaded end of the rod.    Then work the trunnion both directions as you hold the double nut.

 

Great idea. I'll try it. 

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Skwerl58

On my 42" deck when the blades slowed I pulled off the deck belt covers and checked the belt tensioner. The tensioner pulley bearing was shot and needed replacing. I replaced with an aftermarket pulley, cleaned the mechanism and have had no issues since.

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squonk

Throw the WD in the trash or give it to your wife to lube your squeaky recliner chair and use a real penetrant like Deep Creep, PB Blaster ect. 

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TC10284
3 minutes ago, squonk said:

Throw the WD in the trash or give it to your wife to lube your squeaky recliner chair and use a real penetrant like Deep Creep, PB Blaster ect. 

 

I understand what you're saying but I normally use PB Blaster all the time. It's just that I ran out and bought new cans of PB Blaster but already had a can of WD-40 open.

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TC10284
14 hours ago, Skwerl58 said:

On my 42" deck when the blades slowed I pulled off the deck belt covers and checked the belt tensioner. The tensioner pulley bearing was shot and needed replacing. I replaced with an aftermarket pulley, cleaned the mechanism and have had no issues since.

 

In your situation, did the blades turn by hand with little effort? 

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Skwerl58

Yes, the only change other than blades slowing and stopping was the deck got noisy. I thought it was a spindle bearing so I put  off diagnosing it  and then in thick grass it stopped.  When I took the cover off I knew immeditely that it was the tensioner pulley due to the pulley bearing being sloppy. My local mower shop had a non Wheel Horse replacement pulley that matched it perfectly. I cleaned the top of the deck and lubed it,  reassembled and it has been doing great since. It is not a complicated process , just take some pictures before disassembly and go for it. The one thing that bothers me is I took the covers off and cleaned and checked it  before each mowing season and I missed that bad bearing. Now I know so hopefully will not happen again.

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TC10284

The idler pulley was fine. There was no bouncing or flopping in it. 

It turned out to be the trunnion needed to be tightened. After tightening, it cut through the thicker grass like I expected it to. 

 

I tried to get the trunnion off. I was doing good with the double nut method and a little heat. But when I got to the end, I had to take the nuts off and that's when my trouble started. I was still making progress until almost at the end when it start screeching when turned and I knew better, but it broke anyway sadly. And my trunnion is stuck on the broken part. But, I had a spare one on a parts mower that wasn't stuck. It was just a MAJOR pain to get both off. Although the one I pulled off was a good bit worn down where the lever rubs against the metal.

 

So I guess I am going to be ordering another rod and trunnion. 

 

Thanks everyone, as usual!

Edited by TC10284

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