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maysey

Larry

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maysey

I have a 14 hp k series kohler. I'm about to do a rebuild on it and noticed it has E16 on the block instead of k321,the bore is right at 3.498. I mainly was wondering what the E16 means. 

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oliver2-44

:text-welcomeconfetti:

Lots of knowledge here!  Someone will be along that has seen that has seen that before 

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rmaynard

Post a picture of the engine. Sounds like you don't have a K321. What other tags, decals or stickers are on the sheet metal?

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WHX??

Yes need a little more info. Is this number cast in the block above crank shaft? Any chance this was a service replacement? 

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Ed Kennell

:text-welcomeconfetti: to the :rs:    I gotta ask...is Larry the name of this engine with a questionable pedigree?

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RED-Z06

Got any photos?

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953 nut

:WRS:

As others have said the E 16 is not a standard Kohler designation. The bore is standard for a 14 HP K-321, did it come out of a Wheel Horse.

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maysey

I made a little mistake on the numbers maybe it looks like E I 6. Sorry guys. 

20230223_080026.jpg

Edited by maysey
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953 nut

That is just a mold number. If there was a problem with the castings that would allow the factory to identify and check blocks that were cast in that mold.

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WHX??

:text-yeahthat:

I have the same tag on a motor on the bench now. The middle I is actually  the screwdriver slot holding the plate to the mold. 

We have saw castings with the model number in the same place tho. It's behind the pto so often goes unnoticed. 

 

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RED-Z06

3.498 would be a healthy STD sized K321 cylinder...

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maysey

Im gonna hone it ten over anyway. below the ridge its wore quite a bit. ive done them before,it just takes a lot of cutting fluid and a little time.Beats paying $100 at the machine shop and waiting 6 weeks.

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Blasterdad
17 hours ago, Ed Kennell said:

:text-welcomeconfetti: to the :rs:    I gotta ask...is Larry the name of this engine with a questionable pedigree?

 

One question still remains....:dunno: :scratchead:

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RED-Z06
10 minutes ago, maysey said:

Im gonna hone it ten over anyway. below the ridge its wore quite a bit. ive done them before,it just takes a lot of cutting fluid and a little time.Beats paying $100 at the machine shop and waiting 6 weeks.

You'll never get a straight bore with honing that much material away, the stones will not eat enough of the virgin bore away by the time the worn areas are at target size.  Thats why a shop uses a boring bar or rigid hone and finishes the last 0.0005 with a flex hone.  Your size of 3.498 is actually on the tight side of standard, might want to measure again if you have a ridge and you measured that size 

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pacer

I believe that a new set of rings would likely put you back to be good for several more yrs, if, indeed your bore is any where close to your measurement...

 

Just hone to remove the glaze and new rings, cheap, quick and a good chance you'd be good. I've done many this way and had good results (disclaimer: this is with wear in the .004/.006 in the cyl)

 

 

$20 on the bay

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maysey
53 minutes ago, RED-Z06 said:

You'll never get a straight bore with honing that much material away, the stones will not eat enough of the virgin bore away by the time the worn areas are at target size.  Thats why a shop uses a boring bar or rigid hone and finishes the last 0.0005 with a flex hone.  Your size of 3.498 is actually on the tight side of standard, might want to measure again if you have a ridge and you measured that size 

 

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maysey

I got a rigged hone,not cnc but the rail and bearings are thk

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Wild Bill 633
2 hours ago, maysey said:

Im gonna hone it ten over anyway.

Keep us informed as to how it works out.

 

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WHX??

@pacer guessing you have used those rings? Any good? Just ordered those...a std set for a 301. 

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pacer
19 hours ago, WHX?? said:

you have used those rings? Any good?

 

Not necessarily those particular ones, but yes, I have been into some 12-15 Kohlers using using these import engine parts. Have used 5-6 of the full 'rebuild' kits that includes everything including valves (tho I have never needed valves)

 

Now, I will make a ...'disclaimer?' in that I have only ran a couple engines for other than an hour or so, as I was selling the tractors upon completion of the 'refurb' Am presently running a K341 in a D160 that has some 80 hrs on it. Tractor had sat up for long period and I was concerned the rings would be 'stuck' - put new piston, rings and rod in from one of the sites - uses no oil. Next is a K532 with similar condition, it has 40+ hrs on it and will do its first oil change at around 50hrs, though the oil in it appears as clean as when I put it back together.

 

Under ideal circumstances I would like to use .... better?? parts instead of these ...iffy?? import parts, but with these tractors being getting more and more age and wear (along with me!!) I figure the engine will be fine for long enough.....

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RED-Z06

Kohler oem K/M rings had a chromoly face and took forever to break in...but by golly it was a very tough ring set...you could dust them a few times before they would wear.

 

I imagine most aftermarket ones are just cast rings with a coating.  Still a good ring, faster break-in, not as resilient 

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Wheelhorse#1
On 2/23/2023 at 2:21 PM, WHX?? said:

@pacer guessing you have used those rings? Any good? Just ordered those...a std set for a 301. 


I just recently purchased a set of rings and piston from lil red barn on flea bay for a 301.

Seem decent quality made in India oddly enough.

Vender say he will switching to another manufacturer because of fears of supply issues.

 

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WHX??

Thanks fellas they just came in and upon inspection look to be good enough for the women we go out with. We'll see if I don't break them installing Be sure to check end gaps. They are going in a shelf spare 12. STD bore. 

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Wild Bill 633

@WHX??

Hastings Piston Rings makes chrome sets for the Kohler K341-16HP in Std 3.750" P/N 2C5311, 0.020" over P/N 2C5311020 and 0.030" over P/N 2C5311030. Mahle makes Std P/N S41070.

Edited by Wild Bill 633
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WHX??

Thanks Bill 633... those PNs help alot for research.  

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