PTO Side Bearing Removal.

[WHX?? 48,833]

Doing a refresh on a 301 and would like to remove the crank before cleaning & might replace the bearings. 

Manual says this bearing might have to be pressed off. 

 

15. Remove crankshaft, oil seals and, if necessary, antifriction bearings. It may be necessary to press crankshaft out of cylinder block. Bearing plate should be removed first if this is done.

 

Bearing wants to move out and hit the cam.

 

Question is will it damage the cam if I take this to the press? 

[squonk 41,158]

I usually use a lead hammer and just tap the crank  out after the bearing plate is off. . The bearing may come out with the crank. If it doesn't I tap the inner race of the bearing with a brass drift and same lead hammer. Work around the race so it comes out straight.

[Pullstart 62,916]

Can you remove the cam before you try to remove the crank and bearing?

[squonk 41,158]

The cam has to be out before the bearing can come out. So yes the cam needs to be out.  The crank can come out with the cam in. A hammer and a block of wood and that crank would be on the bench already without trying to "Horse " that block into a press        

Edited February 21, 2023 by squonk

[WHX?? 48,833]

1 hour ago, Pullstart said:

Can you remove the cam before you try to remove the crank and bearing?

Nope the crank has to come out before cam can come out. 

Same with reassembly. Bearing has to be installed, them the cam then the crank. 

1 hour ago, squonk said:

A hammer and a block of wood and that crank would be on the bench

Didn't work bearing just walked out hitting the cam. Worried a BFH would break the cam gear. 

[squonk 41,158]

13 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

Nope the crank has to come out before cam can come out. 

Same with reassembly. Bearing has to be installed, them the cam then the crank. 

Didn't work bearing just walked out hitting the cam. Worried a BFH would break the cam gear. 

Well a press will certainly break it. I did almost a dozen Kohlers the last 2 years and the cranks always came out with a couple of taps while the bearing to block casting was a tight fit. Maybe try a little heat and tap some more. I'd be worried about a loose fit between the bearing and block boss. Maybe a little Locktite bearing and sleeve retainer upon reassembly

[Pullstart 62,916]

Do you have any spare refrigerant Uncle Jim?  Freeze the crank and heat the bearing!  

[squonk 41,158]

1 minute ago, Pullstart said:

Do you have any spare refrigerant Uncle Jim?  Freeze the crank and heat the bearing!  

That may take more than 2 hands! 

 

I had a Chevy S-10 in the shop that would not start when it was below 20°. I finally found the issue when I shot the hall effect switch with some Freez-zone! 

[WHX?? 48,833]

1 hour ago, squonk said:

cranks always came out with a couple of taps while the bearing to block casting was a tight fit. 

Same here... first time I ran into this. 

[Pullstart 62,916]

I was actually thinking, could you use a valve spring clamp to hold the bearing in the block then tap the crank with the lead hammer?

[TractorEd 633]

1 hour ago, Pullstart said:

I was actually thinking, could you use a valve spring clamp to hold the bearing in the block then tap the crank with the lead hammer?

 

Good idea.  That or a large c-clamp?

 

 

[squonk 41,158]

Tap the crank back in so the bearing is off the cam. Drive out the cam retaining pin. Rotate the crank CCW from the PTO end. The cam should walk out. Now the crank and bearing will come out.

[WHX?? 48,833]

Would have to be a very large one Kev but good idea. C clamp might have worked too Ed. 

I did get it off tho. 

A small cold chisel between the inner race and crank shoulder with fine observation not to maim the shoulder or bearing. Once I got it about 1/2 way off the crank journal the crank tapped out with a SFH and a wood block.

I think it would have pressed off with slow even pressure and Ed's suggestion of a C clamp. 

 

When it goes back together I'll see if ther is room to get a clamp in ther.