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Blackm84

C145 restoration

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Tonytoro416

I have some pretty good molybdenum bits and they drill them right through the roll pin but that doesn’t get the steering wheel off. Lol man they can be a real pain 

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Blackm84

I am going to soak it in some kroil and try some of my ar-15 roll pin punches.  If that doesn't work I have some carbide bits I could drill it out with.  Is it at all possible to remove the lower bolts on the steering gear and pull it out with the dash plate still on?

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Blackm84

Also am I missing a pulley on the front belt off the side of the engine?

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Handy Don
21 minutes ago, Blackm84 said:

I am going to soak it in some kroil and try some of my ar-15 roll pin punches.  If that doesn't work I have some carbide bits I could drill it out with.  Is it at all possible to remove the lower bolts on the steering gear and pull it out with the dash plate still on?

Yes. Unless you really need the wheel off the steering shaft, this is an excellent workaround.

 

19 minutes ago, Blackm84 said:

Also am I missing a pulley on the front belt off the side of the engine?

From the picture, your PTO looks normal with two pulley sheaves. The drive belt pulley is behind the PTO and locked to the engine shaft.

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Blackm84
54 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

Yes. Unless you really need the wheel off the steering shaft, this is an excellent workaround.

 

From the picture, your PTO looks normal with two pulley sheaves. The drive belt pulley is behind the PTO and locked to the engine shaft.

is there anything on the steering shaft like bushings or anything that I need to replace?  I did notice that the steering wheel had play but if I pushed on the other half of the steering gear it tighted up right away.  I was wondering about the pulley because isn't the outer pulley for attachments?  it seems like the belt would hit the pto brake if I put it that close.

Edited by Blackm84
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c-series don

The steering shaft can only come out through the bottom. There’s no bushings, just a shaft collar that you can loosen up then push the shaft down and the collar up then retighten. The PTO pulleys are both used, the inner groove is for the mower and snowblower and the outer is for a rear vacuum or generator. I’m sure I’m missing a few attachments but you get the idea. 

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Horse Newbie
13 hours ago, Blackm84 said:

Found one spot where the metals broke

That is a common place where metal fatigue causes a crack, at the end of the side rails where the seat pan/ fender support bracket bolts on.

I found it on both my 1994 520H and my 1984 Work Horse GT-1600.

Since I had a welding buddy, I had him simply weld the cracks with full penetration welds, then ground the surface down smooth. 
Some here have added flat steel welded in place, or welded flat washer’s to reinforce.

Adding like 1/4” x 1.25 or 1.50 may change the way everything bolts back up due to the extra thickness of the metal.

Don’t know if it’s been mentioned, but check the flat plate at the rear end of the frame where the transmission bolts on. This is another common place for stress cracks or metal fatigue…

Edited by Horse Newbie
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Blasterdad
32 minutes ago, c-series don said:

The PTO pulleys are both used, the inner groove is for the mower and snowblower and the outer is for a rear vacuum or generator.

 

Not to contradict you @c-series don but the outer groove is for the snowblower, rototiller, vacuum, ect.

Just trying to make sure our new member doesn't get confused...:)

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Blackm84

Well today did some cleaning.  Wouldn't you know the power washer Wouldn't start so I ised engine degreaser and some stuff in a purple bottle.  I then used the air compressor to dry alot of it off.

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Horse Newbie

Make sure you get a fan on that drive pulley to the hydro pump before you run it…

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Blasterdad
On 2/18/2023 at 7:28 PM, Blackm84 said:

20230218_190916.jpg

I see what you're talking about now, the PTO brake is bolted on wrong, making it go too far down into the pulley groove.

It's supposed to bolt on top of the bracket on the engine.

Here's a couple pics of it bolted on correctly, (best I have at the moment)

IMG_0450.JPG.17d53ff8f2e871512d56efe600596d62.JPGIMG_0389.JPG.7375e1d0631fbfb04eb6ab78345c20a2.JPG

 

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c-series don
11 hours ago, Blasterdad said:

 

Not to contradict you @c-series don but the outer groove is for the snowblower, rototiller, vacuum, ect.

Just trying to make sure our new member doesn't get confused...:)

@Blasterdad Not to contradict you,😂 but I’ve never ran my tiller on the outside groove. It simply wouldn’t line up with the mid mount pulleys. Yes the outside is for the generator. Here’s a few pictures, the first three are the tiller and the last is obviously the generator.🙂

360B7F78-04DA-40C5-A35B-00A32F126B2A.jpeg

A5D361FB-BCA7-49B9-967F-0D6E6E1D85E6.jpeg

CEA48110-6B6F-4E79-BF52-D63A72E5711D.jpeg

225F015F-0D5B-4CED-9D01-7F1678946C66.jpeg

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Blasterdad

:text-yeahthat:

I just looked, mine is on the inside too, :hide: Must need to get my pulleys checked! :ROTF:

 

Edited by Blasterdad
I'm a dumba$$
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Blackm84

@Blasterdad  It looks like I have the same bracket is it possible its bent?  Something seems off on mine I am trying to look at the photos to see what the difference is.

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Blasterdad
1 minute ago, Blackm84 said:

@Blasterdad  It looks like I have the same bracket is it possible its bent?  Something seems off on mine I am trying to look at the photos to see what the difference is.

Yours is just bolted on wrong, it goes on top, look at @c-series don picture in the above posts, it shows it real good. :thumbs: 

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Blasterdad
35 minutes ago, c-series don said:

360B7F78-04DA-40C5-A35B-00A32F126B2A.jpeg

 

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Blackm84

I am really nervous when I start pulling the transmission assembly to see if the frame is cracked.

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c-series don

@Blackm84You should be able to see that if you clean up the area where the frame bolts to the transmission. The plate at the end of the frame that four bolts go through is usually where they crack. 

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Blasterdad
Just now, Blackm84 said:

I am really nervous when I start pulling the transmission assembly to see if the frame is cracked.

Don't be nervous, if it is cracked it's an easy fix, all part of the fun, lots of great people here to help! You're going to have a GREAT machine when you're done! :thumbs:

 

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Blackm84

@Blasterdad I'm also nervous about the transmission the comments I got had me running to the service manual to look at the procedure for tearing one down and the motor/pump.  I feel a little better reading up that the only way to really kill these Eaton 1100's is no oil or high pressure I am going to have to get me a hydraulic pressure guage when I am done to really check this thing to make sure its all good.  I did check the oil in it and it wasn't black or burned smelling just looked like motor oil.  

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Blasterdad
38 minutes ago, Blackm84 said:

@Blasterdad I'm also nervous about the transmission the comments I got had me running to the service manual to look at the procedure for tearing one down and the motor/pump.  I feel a little better reading up that the only way to really kill these Eaton 1100's is no oil or high pressure I am going to have to get me a hydraulic pressure guage when I am done to really check this thing to make sure its all good.  I did check the oil in it and it wasn't black or burned smelling just looked like motor oil.  

 

You should be good, don't let us overwhelm / worry you, you're doing great!  :wh: transmissions are hard to kill, usually due to PO abuse / neglect. I have 12 :wh:'s now, both 8 speeds & automatics & have never had any problems with any of them. Just the occasional leaking axle seal, loose hub, rotted shifter boot, ect. All easily fixed. Take your time, address what needs to be fixed, not what doesn't. Getting an old :wh: going again is pretty much just common sense, clean gas tank, new fuel lines, clean carb & filters, good ignition system, new oil, ect...:thumbs:

Have fun with it & be proud knowing YOU restored one of the greatest tractors ever made! You'll have 12 in no time! :lol:

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ebinmaine
5 hours ago, Blasterdad said:

Have fun with it & be proud knowing YOU restored one of the greatest tractors ever made! You'll have 12 in no time! 

 

Agreed.  

 

 

@Blackm84

Don't be concerned about parts availability at all. Whatever you need is out there.  

 

If you haven't already done so, take a look see at the 

"New to the Herd checklist"

We made it up to be a good list of things to check over and look into during whatever needs to be done to a Wheelhorse.  

 

 

 

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Blackm84

Well today worked on the tractor a little bit afyer work.  I was busy with the snowstorm that hit i was on henerator for 6 days then my mom lost power and she was on generator for 4 days.  Then had loys of fun fixing a furnace and honeywell electric air filter due to the power fluctuating.  But anyways got the motor out and now hoping to get the rest taken down.  The wiring is a mess.

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Blasterdad
6 hours ago, Blackm84 said:

got the motor out and now hoping to get the rest taken down.  The wiring is a mess.

 

A job begun is half done, rewiring a C series is really easy, :thumbs:

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chorusguy

What size tile bit?

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