Break in period

[Wheelhorse#1 1,666]

Anyone know the proper break in procedure on a rebuild, Kohler K series ?

 

[rmaynard 15,501]

Straight from the Kohler rebuild manual.

 

 

[953 nut 55,281]

Also you should retorque the head bolts after the first time you run the engine up to operating temperature.

[Pullstart 62,905]

 

[RED-Z06 2,221]

Everyone has an opinion on break-in on a new engine or rebuild...but the most important thing is not using synthetic oil or any synthetic additives, and once warmed up the first time and there's no leaks or noises...get a load on it for 10 or so minutes.  There is a short window for ring/cylinder break-in, and a load helps to push the rings out harder against the cylinder.  Excessive idling, and lack of load can lead to the crosshatch wearing down before the rings seat, this is called glazing and can lead to extended break-in and oil use.

 

Last engine i built was a 20hp Command, i fired it up first time...set it to 2000, verified no leaks or noises then put it on full throttle and mowed an acre.  Its a bit nerve wracking, not gonna lie...

 

Then after 10hrs or so, oil change and your choice of oil..i like synthetics with lots of zinc (after break-in)

Edited February 15, 2023 by RED-Z06

[ranger 1,750]

I believe Honda advise in their operators manuals against running their small engines in low/no load - low speed situations. This to avoid bore and ring issues. Full size tractors that are used to drive irrigation pumps etc, running at a constant speed and load for extended periods can start to burn oil. A good workout pulling a plow/plough usually sorts this out!

[Horseoholic 169]

4 hours ago, RED-Z06 said:

Everyone has an opinion on break-in on a new engine or rebuild...but the most important thing is not using synthetic oil or any synthetic additives

Curiosity Question , what is wrong with not running synthetic oil on a break in ? Does it cause rings not to seat properly ? just curious .

[RED-Z06 2,221]

19 minutes ago, Horseoholic said:

Curiosity Question , what is wrong with not running synthetic oil on a break in ? Does it cause rings not to seat properly ? just curious .

Yes, its so slick that surfaces you actually want to bed in, dont really do that.  Same reason why they say to make sure theres no oily fingerprints or grease on flywheels and rotors on installation...because it can cause a weird bed-in result which will decide how well the parts perform over their lifetime.

[moe1965 738]

Am I to late or should I re torque head bolts??? I rebuilt a 301 last year and probably have about 5 hrs on it   should I replace the gasket and start over ...re torque the existing one or leave it alone....

[RED-Z06 2,221]

27 minutes ago, moe1965 said:

Am I to late or should I re torque head bolts??? I rebuilt a 301 last year and probably have about 5 hrs on it   should I replace the gasket and start over ...re torque the existing one or leave it alone....

Doesn't hurt to check them with the torque wrench.  If its not blown i wouldn't remove it

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,046]

If you are looking for oil don't overlook the diesel oils and that is the large print on the label.

There is one that is still common and meets the CF and CF-2 specification for diesels.

 

If you read the fine print you will also see it meets the SG specification for gas engines and replaces SF.

 

Cx is compression or diesel

Sx is spark for gasoline

[Wheelhorse#1 1,666]

I add Rislone zink treatment to my oil, no harm in that  correct ? 

Thanks for all the information.

I recently purchased a early K301 that’s a good candidate for a rebuild.Just waiting on the parts now.

 

 

Edited February 15, 2023 by Wheelhorse#1

[RED-Z06 2,221]

1 hour ago, Wheelhorse#1 said:

I add Rislone zink treatment to my oil, no harm in that  correct ? 

Thanks for all the information.

I recently purchased a early K301 that’s a good candidate for a rebuild.Just waiting on the parts now.

 

 

As long as you don't add it on break-in its fine.

[lynnmor 7,307]

3 hours ago, Wheelhorse#1 said:

I add Rislone zink treatment to my oil, no harm in that  correct ? 

Thanks for all the information.

I recently purchased a early K301 that’s a good candidate for a rebuild.Just waiting on the parts now.

 

If you Google break-in oil you will find that they have a considerable amount of added zinc.  They are not meant to be used long term because the excessive ZDDP can cause acid to be formed and that will cause harm.  Likewise, adding zinc is a guessing game since you probably don't know how much is already in the oil or how much snake oil can be safely added, if any.  The snake oil additive container just tells you to add so much without knowing or caring what it might do.  There is no way to answer your question other than to say just use oil with the proper additives already in it and if you like synthetic oil, that is fine for break-in or regular use.  Did you know that assembly lubes have a considerable amount of zinc to protect parts such as cams and lifters?  Since motor oils have reduced ZDDP in recent years with the SN standard, I bypass the whole controversy and simple buy Kohler oil that has what you need.

[RED-Z06 2,221]

22 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

If you Google break-in oil you will find that they have a considerable amount of added zinc.  They are not meant to be used long term because the excessive ZDDP can cause acid to be formed and that will cause harm.  Likewise, adding zinc is a guessing game since you probably don't know how much is already in the oil or how much snake oil can be safely added, if any.  The snake oil additive container just tells you to add so much without knowing or caring what it might do.  There is no way to answer your question other than to say just use oil with the proper additives already in it and if you like synthetic oil, that is fine for break-in or regular use.  Did you know that assembly lubes have a considerable amount of zinc to protect parts such as cams and lifters?  Since motor oils have reduced ZDDP in recent years with the SN standard, I bypass the whole controversy and simple buy Kohler oil that has what you need.

Ive always gone back to a guy that debunked the old "ProLong" infomercial snake oil demonstration that put a lifter against a bearing race spinning in oil and spinning in their products.  The debunker did the same test, same results...then did it again with shampoo...which contained alot of zinc.  The shampoo test showed 0 wear...demolished the oil and prolong tests.  But, as we know...engine won't run on Shampoo.  But it demonstrates the effects of Zinc...and you really do need "contact" during break-in, but long term, some zinc is a good thing.

[pacer 3,173]

A bit OT, but talking about synthetic oil --- Bout a yr ago I had a 70's Massey with an Onan B43 in it with unknown hrs but did not use oil, so last spring I crossed my fingers and changed to a 10W-40 synthetic --- I sold it at the end of summer with 68hrs on that oil and I was ... simply blown away!! the stuff looked as clear as when I put it in and had used none. I am presently using it in my D200's K532 with 40+ hrs on the oil and it also looks like new. I'm gonna keep stacking hrs on it with the upcoming grass cutting and keep a close ck on it. 

 

This came about because I got a 2011 Tundra that calls for 0W-20 synthetic and I now have about 4800mi on its oil and I have to get in good light to find where the oil level is on the stick, which is always right on.... pretty impressive.

[RED-Z06 2,221]

9 minutes ago, pacer said:

A bit OT, but talking about synthetic oil --- Bout a yr ago I had a 70's Massey with an Onan B43 in it with unknown hrs but did not use oil, so last spring I crossed my fingers and changed to a 10W-40 synthetic --- I sold it at the end of summer with 68hrs on that oil and I was ... simply blown away!! the stuff looked as clear as when I put it in and had used none. I am presently using it in my D200's K532 with 40+ hrs on the oil and it also looks like new. I'm gonna keep stacking hrs on it with the upcoming grass cutting and keep a close ck on it. 

 

This came about because I got a 2011 Tundra that calls for 0W-20 synthetic and I now have about 4800mi on its oil and I have to get in good light to find where the oil level is on the stick, which is always right on.... pretty impressive.

Synthetic oil is absolutely amazing, it really holds up.  The only downside is on older poorly maintained engines with sludge buildup...synthetic oil will clean them up, which can lead to leaks.  Its not that it caused the leak, it cleaned away the gunk covering it up.

[pacer 3,173]

3 minutes ago, RED-Z06 said:

older poorly maintained engines with sludge buildup

 

That is why I noted that "I crossed my fingers" before I 'did the deed' Had no history on either of the eng, neither had an hr meter and I added meter to both, but had used them both enough to know that they were in good running condition.

[ineedanother 1,369]

The key, as I've always believed, is to not use a detergent oil which is formulated to cause machining and/or break-in "debris" to float in the oil. All of that needs to sink in the sump and not circulate prior to the first oil change. A magnet in the sump is a consideration as well and I've seen that done numerous times although I don't subscribe to that beyond a magnetized plug.

[RED-Z06 2,221]

9 minutes ago, ineedanother said:

The key, as I've always believed, is to not use a detergent oil which is formulated to cause machining and/or break-in "debris" to float in the oil. All of that needs to sink in the sump and not circulate prior to the first oil change. A magnet in the sump is a consideration as well and I've seen that done numerous times although I don't subscribe to that beyond a magnetized plug.

ND oil as break-in oil has long been a big point of contest in small engines..its up there with "what 2 stroke oil is best" in chainsaw groups.

 

I feel like if you have an oil filter on your engine, and you can get the break-in oil out before it "turns"...thats safe.  On non-filtered engines, i go against the grain on non-detergent oils at any time because your break-in debris settles to the pan and isnt "suspended" in the oil...so when you drain it, how much debris remains in the pan?  On a personal experience level, i despise the accessibility to ND oils because you know in seconds once inside if its had ND oil in it, it adds so much time to clean up and if the carbon/tar sludge gets on your skin, its there..get used to seeing that stain for a few days.

[ineedanother 1,369]

1 minute ago, RED-Z06 said:

ND oil as break-in oil has long been a big point of contest in small engines..its up there with "what 2 stroke oil is best" in chainsaw groups.

 

I feel like if you have an oil filter on your engine, and you can get the break-in oil out before it "turns"...thats safe.  On non-filtered engines, i go against the grain on non-detergent oils at any time because your break-in debris settles to the pan and isnt "suspended" in the oil...so when you drain it, how much debris remains in the pan?  On a personal experience level, i despise the accessibility to ND oils because you know in seconds once inside if its had ND oil in it, it adds so much time to clean up and if the carbon/tar sludge gets on your skin, its there..get used to seeing that stain for a few days.

That's a very fair position on the matter.  One thing is for certain in my mind, and that is that a freshly machined block is a work of beauty and if treated well will also serve you well