300,400, Front axle, pivot, spindles

[Searcher60 209]

300&400 Series. Anybody ever install bushings in the front axle pivot, and in the front axle for the spindles.

These things are slam worn out. I know I can find worn out parts in many places. It’s bushings I am interested in. Thanks!

[Marv 922]

yes, I have done that on two C series and a D200. Worked out ok for me.

Marv

[Damien Walker 246]

Hello! 

 

I haven't installed steering spindle bushes but it shouldn't be too difficult if you have the necessary equipment to do it with. I would clamp the axle up at a jaunty angle (to get the angled bearing vertical in a drilling or milling machine and bore it out to a larger size, possibly reaming for a final finish. You could then press in steel or oilite bearings of the correct bore for the spindles again reaming for final size. Needle roller bearings should be possible too. If you don't have the kit to do this with a local machine shop should do it with ease.

 

The axle pivot bearings are easier but it depends on where the wear is....is it the cast iron axle or in the metal plate mountings? I have a Commando 7 that required extensive re-bushing and in my case, the wear was all in the axle so I bored out the centre pivot hole and pressed in a steel sleeve to make up the difference.

 

If the metal plates have worn, again, bore them out round and fit bushed. If you use T shaped bushes  (you'd have to turn these on a lathe to suit) welded them in place, you'd then need a longer pivot pin to make up the extra length. The pin is 3/4" diameter across the whole range of tractors as far as I am aware.

 

I have attached a crude 3D drawing...hope this helps! Red = Existing Chassis Orange = Extended Pin (doesn't have to be this long!) Yellow are the two bushes

 

Alternatively, you could simply replace the axle. I have several lying about...unfortunately postage from the UK to the US would be prohibitive but you must have thousands of spares over there.

 

Good luck!

[wallfish 16,995]

I've done them a more crude and simpler route without any special machines or expensive tooling. Just a 7/8" construction reamer, a cordless drill and a Dremel. Pay attention, take your time, keep it straight and it will self center and the hole will line up.

The spindle holes need to be done from both ends of the hole because of the depth. Best to only go part way through on the top, then go full depth on the bottom.  The reamer won't just pass all the way through unless you grind off the flange at the top and extend the shank.

 

3/4" ID x 7/8" OD bronze bushings. Insert 1 on each end with the center left open for the grease zerk and grease. That's how that hole is now.

 

Same process for the axle pivot. The frame holes can be done as well if they're wallowed.

If the spindles go in too tight into the bushings that's a good thing as they are tight into the axle. The bushings can be filed or use a Dremel sander to tweak them until the spindle fits loose but still snug. Get any file dust cleaned out.

https://www.amazon.com/Drill-America-Qualtech-High-Speed-Uncoated/dp/B00FXJGURA/ref=asc_df_B00FXJGURA?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80058242473102&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583657821672122&th=1

 

Is having it done with expensive machines at a machine shop much more accurate and the best option? You betchya it is!!!!  But, do these 7 mph tractors require the accuracy like the space shuttle does? IDK Plus you now have the tool to do more if need be. It definitely gets easier to do and better results the more you do. Holes can also get bushings for the 3/4" stuff on the steering sector to tighten that stuff up at the fan gear.

 

[ebinmaine 67,464]

On 2/5/2023 at 7:31 PM, wallfish said:

I've done them a more crude and simpler route without any special machines or expensive tooling. Just a 7/8" construction reamer, a cordless drill and a Dremel. Pay attention, take your time, keep it straight and it will self center and the hole will line up.

The spindle holes need to be done from both ends of the hole because of the depth. Best to only go part way through on the top, then go full depth on the bottom.  The reamer won't just pass all the way through unless you grind off the flange at the top and extend the shank.

 

3/4" ID x 7/8" OD bronze bushings. Insert 1 on each end with the center left open for the grease zerk and grease. That's how that hole is now.

 

Same process for the axle pivot. The frame holes can be done as well if they're wallowed.

If the spindles go in too tight into the bushings that's a good thing as they are tight into the axle. The bushings can be filed or use a Dremel sander to tweak them until the spindle fits loose but still snug. Get any file dust cleaned out.

https://www.amazon.com/Drill-America-Qualtech-High-Speed-Uncoated/dp/B00FXJGURA/ref=asc_df_B00FXJGURA?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80058242473102&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583657821672122&th=1

 

Is having it done with expensive machines at a machine shop much more accurate and the best option? You betchya it is!!!!  But, do these 7 mph tractors require the accuracy like the space shuttle does? IDK Plus you now have the tool to do more if need be. It definitely gets easier to do and better results the more you do. Holes can also get bushings for the 3/4" stuff on the steering sector to tighten that stuff up at the fan gear.

 

 

@wallfish

John, what do you use for the bushings?

Do you buy long and trim them or ream the axle beam too?

 

Thanks...

[wallfish 16,995]

42 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

@wallfish

John, what do you use for the bushings?

Do you buy long and trim them or ream the axle beam too?

 

Thanks...

Ream the axle through hole if it's worn and the frame holes too if they are wollowed. If the pin was locked without the tab breaking off they typically stay round. What ever you get can be trimmed too if 2 pcs end up too long.

You can search and find longer bronze bushings but they only go up to 2" (I think) maybe 2 1/4. Using 2 pcs isn't the end of the world and that's typically how I do it.

For the spindles it's best to just use 2 pcs and leave the center open for the grease. If you look inside that hole you will see the inner section of the hole is larger for this purpose.

 

Does that answer the question?

[ebinmaine 67,464]

57 minutes ago, wallfish said:

Does that answer the question?

Perfectly Sir.  Thank you.  

 

I'll post in the Military Tribute thread.  

[wallfish 16,995]

3 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Perfectly Sir.  Thank you.  

 

I'll post in the Military Tribute thread.  

Did you buy one of those reamers? Have you done any yet?

[ebinmaine 67,464]

4 minutes ago, wallfish said:

Did you buy one of those reamers? Have you done any yet?

Yeah buddy. Bought one awhile back. Used it today with good success.   

 

[wallfish 16,995]

7 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Yeah buddy. Bought one awhile back. Used it today with good success.   

 

With an extension for the shank you could drill all the way though from one side. Grind the ridge off if it has one. BUT, one good thing about drilling them from opposite sides is the reamer isn't "reaming" the first side the entire drilling time so there's that too.