Trying to remove the mule bearings; help please.

[GAJoe 842]

I  began taking the mule apart. I got the snap rings out and was able to remove the tapered pulley and remove the bearing. I went to repack the "good bearing" but upon closer inspection decided to replace both. Got the two ordered.

Is there a trick to getting the flat pulley that's closest to the mount off of the mule or is it just "brown welded"? I have it soaking with Kroil.

[oliver2-44 9,714]

Joe, just an fyi, the spacers between the pillows are slightly different sizes. Not at my horse so I don’t remember which goes where. 

[daveoman1966 3,745]

Here's what works for me to get the stubborn pulley(s) off of the mule drive.  

[GAJoe 842]

A great set-up you have there.

Thanks for going to the trouble of making the pictures. I really do appreciate it. 

The top pulley came right off and after some Kroil the snap rings came out of both.

I was able to tap the bearing out of the pulley that came off without too much trouble trying to save it.

The remaining bearing isn't worth saving so it should come out with some persuasion. 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,037]

This is a good example of where an application of never-seize will make it easier next time.

[Racinbob 11,047]

 

Every fall when I pull the decks off for the winter I disassemble the mule drive and give it a fresh film of anti-seize. It only takes a few minutes each. 

[peter lena 8,589]

@GAJoe  my mules are lucas grease built , no rust at all , bearings , slide spacer , remove nut , it all slides off  easily , lay it out as removed , so its an easy  reassemble . also grease the adjustment  dial screw . bearings are silent in operation , whining noise indicates lubrication failure . just me , pete

[ranger 1,748]

Never Ever hit a hard hammer with another hard hammer unless you’re wearing full face protection at least! Two hardened surfaces coming together like that are more than likely to splinter. Slivers of razor sharp metal hitting your eyes, or any unprotected part of your anatomy is not a pleasant experience! If you must hit a hammer with another hammer, make sure one is copper or brass. Or better yet, weld a handle to a slug of mild steel and hit that with your hammer!

[peter lena 8,589]

@ranger  remember the first mule I  rebuilt , was looking right at the bearing failure ,why not replace the original bearings , with same type , but clean out and replace original grease with a hi temp polyurea grease that will stand up ? done all of mine now , no noise , and also did my pto cone bearings , as well as deck spindles , thats 10 related bearings , also went after that sloppy pto lever set up . still amazes me  how easily / quietly  all 3  drive set ups work . always look at intended set up / function , sloppy ? erratic ? only me , saposed to get another unit soon , looking forward to eliminating any problem I  find , just how I look at things . make it better , pete  

[GAJoe 842]

11 hours ago, ranger said:

Never Ever hit a hard hammer with another hard hammer unless you’re wearing full face protection at least! Two hardened surfaces coming together like that are more than likely to splinter. Slivers of razor sharp metal hitting your eyes, or any unprotected part of your anatomy is not a pleasant experience! If you must hit a hammer with another hammer, make sure one is copper or brass. Or better yet, weld a handle to a slug of mild steel and hit that with your hammer!

Thanks guys for all of the replies. It went well.

After the Kroil soak I hit the nut with a 2X4 and the pully popped loose with first smack. Getting the bearings out of the pullies took a few more.

Got the pullies cleaned up and ready for the new bearings and snap rings put back in.

 

[peter lena 8,589]

@GAJoe  morning , don,t forget the grease upgrade , eliminate the drag / noise , get greasy , pete 

[GAJoe 842]

1 hour ago, peter lena said:

@GAJoe  morning , don,t forget the grease upgrade , eliminate the drag / noise , get greasy , pete 

10-4

Got my syringe full of Lucas Green waiting for the new bearings to arrive today for repacking.

Edited February 4, 2023 by GAJoe

[GAJoe 842]

10 hours ago, GAJoe said:

10-4

Got my syringe full of Lucas Green waiting for the new bearings to arrive today for repacking.

Bearings were the wrong size. I hate it when you put a search in Amazon how they will list items that aren't the correct size. They just want you to buy something, anything, even if it isn't what you are searching for. The same with Google search.

Edited February 5, 2023 by GAJoe
correct grammar

[ineedanother 1,369]

This is a timely post and I think I would really enjoy working with @daveoman1966 I have to get a mule drive ready for work and did a search and surprisingly came up with this thread from this week. @GAJoe if you wouldn't mind linking the correct bearings, I suspect I might just want to go ahead and replace them once I employ the BFHs   

[Lee1977 6,651]

4 hours ago, ineedanother said:

This is a timely post and I think I would really enjoy working with @daveoman1966 I have to get a mule drive ready for work and did a search and surprisingly came up with this thread from this week. @GAJoe if you wouldn't mind linking the correct bearings, I suspect I might just want to go ahead and replace them once I employ the BFHs   

What type of Mule drive pulleys do you have, steel or cast iron. The cast iron type are removable . The steel are harder to replace as they are spot welded together.  The flat pulley is easer as it' only has the spot welds. I suggest you first drill a small hole between the spot welds as a line up hole, then drill the spot wells out then bolt it back together. The V-grove is also welded in the grove and is a pain to get it apart.  It can be done. the bearings I have replaced are 6203 RR12

40 mm OD. 3/4" ID and 12 mm wide. Here are some I have replaced.

[GAJoe 842]

6 hours ago, ineedanother said:

This is a timely post and I think I would really enjoy working with @daveoman1966 I have to get a mule drive ready for work and did a search and surprisingly came up with this thread from this week. @GAJoe if you wouldn't mind linking the correct bearings, I suspect I might just want to go ahead and replace them once I employ the BFHs   

@ineedanotherThe number on my original bearings is "6203RS3/4"

The best source that I found was Amazon. But be careful which ones that you select. The bearing number 6203RS  search will get mostly 17mm bore diameter. You want the 3/4" or 19.05mm. Here's a link to the search:

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=ZSKL+Compatible+with+Toro%2FWheel+Horse+Lawn+Mower+Spindle+Bearing+106084+19.05mm+X+40mm+X+12mm+(6+Pack)&crid=2Z3UB3M1MWOMK&sprefix=zskl+compatible+with+toro%2Fwheel+horse+lawn+mower+spindle+bearing+106084+19.05mm+x+40mm+x+12mm+6+pack+%2Caps%2C152&ref=nb_sb_noss

 

and here's what it comes back with.

 

Here's the ones that I selected (stainless steel) and confirmed that they are the correct size, but they only come in a six pack:

https://www.amazon.com/Wheel-Horse-Spindle-Bearing-106084/dp/B073FYGNL1/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2Z3UB3M1MWOMK&keywords=ZSKL+Compatible+with+Toro%2FWheel+Horse+Lawn+Mower+Spindle+Bearing+106084+19.05mm+X+40mm+X+12mm+(6+Pack)&qid=1675586221&sprefix=zskl+compatible+with+toro%2Fwheel+horse+lawn+mower+spindle+bearing+106084+19.05mm+x+40mm+x+12mm+6+pack+%2Caps%2C152&sr=8-1

 

If  you go to a local bearing source to get one or two and give the 6203RS3/4 number stress the bore diameter is 3/4" or 19.05mm and NOT 17mm.

Edited February 5, 2023 by GAJoe
to direct the reply to a person

[peter lena 8,589]

@GAJoe  when ever you inspect that mule drive set up , I  lay  it out as i remove it , especially bearing spacer , so it goes back  very easily . BTW  since rebuilding my 3 mules , have not had a single issue or noisy , whiney  bearing , also grease the dial , trundle area ,in threaded rod . spray , red grease in related movement areas , think you are well on your way  . personally know that set up can / should work with  quiet , ease.  also add this to the pto lever  , you are looking straight down to the end start point of the pto lever , attached to the battery ground rail .note the greasy washer stack , eliminating sloppy play ? once that was firm , slightly bent lever to eliminate drag areas , finished it with a heim joint , ask me how it works ? also attached another ground cable to that ground rail  , last picture , to corner of engine / frame to insure engine rectifier operation . ask me , pete

 

[ineedanother 1,369]

Thanks @Lee1977 and @GAJoe, I have steel and cast and will likely rebuild a couple if not a few. None of them run as smoothly as I would like so I definitely need to at least have the one for my primary mower taken care of and will follow @peter lena 's guide on the grease. The first step will be the press and I'll go from there 

[daveoman1966 3,745]

Flat idler is 104975. (eBay item number:275650373031...$13) 

The 'V' pulley is 104974 or 92-7103.  (eBay item number:275597359847...$20)  

These are after-market 'Sure-Fit' steel pulleys on Ebay for less than half of OEM.   Given the cost of your new bearings and all the cut/drill/refit to 'fix' your old pulleys, is it really worth all the time and effort to salvage the original pulleys.  On the orginal Cast Iron pulleys, bearing replacement isn't always an option b/c the ID of the pulley gets wallowed out to where a new bearing will not fit tightly.  The bearing itself will be sloppy when mounted in the pulley.  Been there...dun that.    

[peter lena 8,589]

@daveoman1966   never had the old bolted type , but pulleys were shot any way , so I  bought 2 new pulleys  popped off bearing covers , wiped / flushed them out , put in the good stuff , no problem again . all 3 of my mules have the newer style pulleys , solid / very quiet  pete

[ineedanother 1,369]

4 hours ago, daveoman1966 said:

Flat idler is 104975. (eBay item number:275650373031...$13) 

The 'V' pulley is 104974 or 92-7103.  (eBay item number:275597359847...$20)  

These are after-market 'Sure-Fit' steel pulleys on Ebay for less than half of OEM.   Given the cost of your new bearings and all the cut/drill/refit to 'fix' your old pulleys, is it really worth all the time and effort to salvage the original pulleys.  On the orginal Cast Iron pulleys, bearing replacement isn't always an option b/c the ID of the pulley gets wallowed out to where a new bearing will not fit tightly.  The bearing itself will be sloppy when mounted in the pulley.  Been there...dun that.    

I think this is the route I'll go.