truck ramps??

[Brockport Bill 1,662]

 anyone have experince or opinions about using ramps to get tractors up into pick up trucks ?? I have 8 ft wood ramps with the hardware plates on ends to lean on end of tailgate.... but if truck is on level ground  its a steep angle -- when i travel locally i can usually back truck up to slight lawn slope in my yard or at my daughters house to minimize the angle. I want to be able to use truck in all situations but it seems the steel ramps generally for sale are only 7-8 feet which makes steep angle from street level. Does anyone have insights on either using longer ramps, or if the ramps at 7-8 ft length are adequate and safe -- i am guessing not adequate to ride the tractor up with me on a 7-8 ft ramp... but maybe in low range to let tractor walk up by itself??????  i have not seen 10 ft ramps to use to lessen angle? Plus then i would need them to fold in half to 5 ft to transport ramps....... My truck is Honda Ridgeline so its rear doesn't sit as high as a Chev, or F150, Ram, etc -- but its only a 5 ft long bed plus the tailgate - I have moved my tractors in it but just wanted some ideas on ramp solutions?

[ri702bill 8,323]

Remove the tailgate!!  I do this with my old Ranger - You do not want to experience having one of the plastic coated braided wire gate straps break - they rust under the plastic !! - and taco the tailgate, drop the tractor, on and on.... makes for a really bad day....

Bill

[OutdoorEnvy 1,522]

I use 6ft straight ramps from Harbor Freight and load into my truck bed as well.  I have to find a hill/slope to level them out a bit.  Especially with a mowing deck.  Harbor Frieght sells a ramp set that is arched to avoid the sharp angle at the tailgate.  I would get those if buying again.  Most importantly though make sure you strap them to your truck when loading so they can’t kick out or shift on you.  

[daveoman1966 3,752]

I have a 1991 S-10 Long bed...7-1/2' inside tailgate. I use treated 2x10s, cut to 7-1/2' to lay in bed for transport and have used these for 10+ years.  On the end of each 2x10, I bolted (4 bolts) a 'Z' bend angle iron, then drilled a 1/2" center hole on the side of the 'Z' that lays on the tailgate, or bed rail if tailgate is off.  On the tailgate AND the bed rail, I drilled 6 corresponding 1/2" holes (3 each side) to accommodate wider/narrower tractors.  A 3/8" x 2" carriage bolt is used to 'hook' the 2x10 Z bend to the tailgate/bedrail to keep the ramps from falling off or sliding either way.  As a final note:  I always back the tractor onto the bed and never drive up the ramps. 3 reasons: (1)I can't leap backward if a ramp breaks (2) easier to drive forward when unloading...(still can't leap backward). and (3)..better weight distribution. 

         

 

Edited February 2, 2023 by daveoman1966

[Brockport Bill 1,662]

29 minutes ago, daveoman1966 said:

I have a 1991 S-10 Long bed...7-1/2' inside tailgate. I use treated 2x8s, cut to 7-1/2' to lay in bed for transport and have used these for 10+ years.  On the end of each 2x8, I bolted (4 bolts) a 'Z' bend angle iron, then drilled a 1/2" center hole on the side of the 'Z' that lays on the tailgate, or bed rail if tailgate is off.  On the tailgate AND the bed rail, I drilled 6 corresponding 1/2" holes (3 each side) to accommodate wider/narrower tractors.  A 3/8" x 2" carriage bolt is used to 'hook' the 2x8 Z bend to the tailgate/bedrail to keep the ramps from falling off or sliding either way.  As a final note:  I always back the tractor onto the bed and never drive up the ramps. 3 reasons: (1)I can't leap backward if a ramp breaks (2) easier to drive forward when unloading...(still can't leap backward). and (3)..better weight distribution. 

         

 

like the idea -- thanks

[953 nut 55,243]

1 hour ago, OutdoorEnvy said:

 Most importantly though make sure you strap them to your truck when loading so they can’t kick out or shift on you.  

            Also always back up the ramps. If you are using wood ramps going forward and loose traction you may end up with a big old backflip when you regain traction.

I use the Harbor Freight steel ramps because they have good traction so you are not going to have a loss of traction if driving on the ramps. I prefer to load using a winch so there is no danger of the operator getting hurt. The cost of a small 12 volt winch is much less than the insurance copay you will have for a broken arm.  

[Tonytoro416 1,034]

I have some ramps from TSC that fold in half and when folded out they are arched and it makes a huge difference.  I have loaded several into the back of a full size Chevy truck from street level with no problems. I have always rode the tractor up also so they make a big difference.  Worth the money IMO

[Tonytoro416 1,034]

I also normally hook a strap to them to the truck so they can’t kick out from under the tractor

[Lee1977 6,661]

If you are going over on a regular weekly bases using the truck is not the safest way.  A small low trailer is a lot cheaper then hospital bills and repairing damage to your tractor.

 

[Tonytoro416 1,034]

2 minutes ago, Lee1977 said:

If you are going over on a regular weekly bases using the truck is not the safest way.  A small low trailer is a lot cheaper then hospital bills and repairing damage to your tractor.

 

I recently bought a utility trailer for tractors but hauled a mower every week for several summers to mow my grandmothers yard.  It can be done safely.  

[SylvanLakeWH 25,563]

I use a 5x8 utility trailer with drop gate... cheap safer and easier.

 

Would never ride a tractor up ramps...

Would never use wood due to traction...

Always back up ramps...

 

[kpinnc 12,063]

I have 7 foot curved aluminum ramps. They are rated for 750lbs each. Most of the ones I see around nowadays are similar but folding style instead of rigid. The curve makes truck loading much easier.

 

I don't have a pic of the ramps by themselves. The ones below are all I have right now. Obviously I also use them to get on and off of my roll around lift. 

 

I never ride the tractor loading or unloading. Even though my ramps are strapped to the trailer hitch so they won't move, I let the tractor motor off in gear. I can't bench press 600lbs, so I'm not riding the tractor on or off. I've seen far too many folks flip off the ramps to try that myself.

[Tonytoro416 1,034]

18 minutes ago, kpinnc said:

I have 7 foot curved aluminum ramps. They are rated for 750lbs each. Most of the ones I see around nowadays are similar but folding style instead of rigid. The curve makes truck loading much easier.

 

I don't have a pic of the ramps by themselves. The ones below are all I have right now. Obviously I also use them to get on and off of my roll around lift. 

 

I never ride the tractor loading or unloading. Even though my ramps are strapped to the trailer hitch so they won't move, I let the tractor motor off in gear. I can't bench press 600lbs, so I'm not riding the tractor on or off. I've seen far too many folks flip off the ramps to try that myself.

I would like to know more about your lift there 

[Rob J. 1,942]

I use arched aluminum folders from HF. They come with safety straps. 

[Pullstart 62,891]

I built my ramps.  They are 2”x2” stainless frame and 9’ long.  They have locking U channels to hold on to the deck, or the bumper of my truck.

[Pullstart 62,891]

I must say.  The big show loading dock is where it’s at.  I have two semi loads of old cut down power poles.  Why I don’t have one built yet?  It’s beyond me.

[Blasterdad 2,692]

3 minutes ago, Pullstart said:

  Why I don’t have one built yet?  It’s beyond me.

 

My guess is your loader isn't finished yet...

[Pullstart 62,891]

41 minutes ago, Blasterdad said:

 

My guess is your loader isn't finished yet...

No fair, that was below the ramps!

[Brockport Bill 1,662]

6 hours ago, Lee1977 said:

If you are going over on a regular weekly bases using the truck is not the safest way.  A small low trailer is a lot cheaper then hospital bills and repairing damage to your tractor.

 

i have a trailer .....but was looking for ramp solution for truck for longer trips so did not have to tow -- wanted to just use the truck for over the road longer trips -- but needed solution to get tractor in and out of truck

[JPWH 6,034]

I have this HF set I use for my 2000 Silverado. They are arched and small to transport.

1000 lb. Capacity 9 in. x 72 in. Tri-Fold Loading Ramps, Set of Two 

Edited February 2, 2023 by JPWH

[GAJoe 844]

10 hours ago, OutdoorEnvy said:

I use 6ft straight ramps from Harbor Freight and load into my truck bed as well.  I have to find a hill/slope to level them out a bit.  Especially with a mowing deck.  Harbor Frieght sells a ramp set that is arched to avoid the sharp angle at the tailgate.  I would get those if buying again.  Most importantly though make sure you strap them to your truck when loading so they can’t kick out or shift on you.  

What he said.

[CCW 1,295]

Good topic.  It has given me ideas on how to improve my ramps and loading technique.  Not that I have to do it very often.

 

[WHX?? 48,815]

Guessing you guys are not loading tractors with decks on? 

Does the curved ramps work for this? 

[Tonytoro416 1,034]

11 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

Guessing you guys are not loading tractors with decks on? 

Does the curved ramps work for this? 

Yes   That’s why they are designed that way so the deck doesn’t hang up 

[pfrederi 17,739]