New to Me 1977 Wheel Horse C-160

[ineedanother 1,369]

Good to see that you still have all 6 magnets in the flywheel. I wouldn't be too concerned about cleaning. Compressed air and a soft bristled brush is enough IMO. 

[Horse Newbie 7,069]

9 minutes ago, ineedanother said:

Good to see that you still have all 6 magnets in the flywheel. I wouldn't be too concerned about cleaning. Compressed air and a soft bristled brush is enough IMO. 

Yeah, I agree… 

[oliver2-44 9,743]

6 hours ago, Horse Newbie said:

So if the puller is on there putting pressure on the flywheel , then how do I give the crankshaft a sharp rap ?

@oliver2-44

As others said you tap the puller bolt. 
I have the same HF puller. Some have come off with just pressure like yours, some needed a good rap

 

Like Achto I use Electrical Contact Cleaner on the stator. Anything works on the flywheel

 

[Bill D 1,920]

There is a product made by CRC called Lectra-Motive. It's an electric parts cleaner. Use that to clean the stator.  It's specially designed to clean the stator windings without damaging the insulation on them.  Excellent product for removing dirt and grease.  I've used it to degrease many small parts. Berryman also makes a version of this product as well.  Just Google Electric Motor Cleaner.

Edited April 20, 2023 by Bill D

[953 nut 55,198]

7 hours ago, Bill D said:

CRC called Lectra-Motive.

I use that on Starter/Generators too, washes away the gunk without doing any damage.              Good stuff!

[ebinmaine 67,455]

7 hours ago, Bill D said:

CRC

 

4 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

Good stuff

 

 

I find any CRC product is good stuff... 

[Handy Don 12,216]

Important to keep in mind when cleaning a stator is that the product must not damage the insulation on the windings’ wire or the pole-to-pole connectors. Sometimes the insulation is simple heat-resistant varnish that is vulnerable to solvents. Also, it must be non-conductive and evaporate out of the windings.

That’s why I’d adhere to the recommendations for electric motor cleaning products and avoid really strong stuff like brake cleaner.

[ebinmaine 67,455]

34 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

Important to keep in mind when cleaning a stator is that the product must not damage the insulation on the windings’ wire or the pole-to-pole connectors. Sometimes the insulation is simple heat-resistant varnish that is vulnerable to solvents. Also, it must be non-conductive and evaporate out of the windings.

That’s why I’d adhere to the recommendations for electric motor cleaning products and avoid really strong stuff like brake cleaner.

 

 

This is a good point so I want to clarify my recommendation above. 

 

SOME brands of brake clean state they are safe to use on electric motors and windings and electronics in general.

 

Other brands make no such claims and in fact there are recommendations online against it.

 

 

Do your own research.

 

Confirm that your situation is compatible.

 

 

[Horse Newbie 7,069]

Okay the CRC Lectra-Motive says for energized equipment and will harm plastic parts. 
The CRC QD Electronic Cleaner says plastic safe, may pool in areas, and make sure completely dry before re-energizing.

May remove lubrication from moving parts.

The Mac’s NAPA brand basically says safe on plastic, fast drying…

Which would you use to cleaner a stator ?

@ebinmaine , @Handy Don , @953 nut , @Bill D

Edited April 20, 2023 by Horse Newbie

[ebinmaine 67,455]

3 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

. 
The CRC QD Electronic Cleaner says plastic safe, may pool in areas, and make sure completely dry before re-energizing.

May remove lubrication from moving parts.

The Mac’s NAPA brand basically says safe on plastic, fast drying…

Which would you use to cleaner a stator ?

@ebinmaine , @Handy Don , @953 nut , @Bill D

Seems like either one of them ought to be okay because you're not trying to re-energize it right away but I would lean towards the bottom one just for kicks.  

[Horse Newbie 7,069]

@Bill D above said use the top one… does a stator have plastic parts ?

 

Am I overthinking this… stators are probably expensive and I don’t want an expensive lesson…

[ebinmaine 67,455]

6 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

overthinking

Maybe. Maybe not. But that's what it's all about isn't it?

 

 

The fact that it states it can damage plastic would bother me quite a bit.

 

As I'm sure you are well aware there are many different types of "plastic"  as we see it in the generic form of a word and I don't know which one of those would be harmed or not by that chemical so I would rather play it safe.  

[Horse Newbie 7,069]

So I bought the CRC QD Electronic Cleaner and the Napa brand Mac’s 4710 Electronic Cleaner…

Haven’t used either yet as I am still cleaning grime off the Kohler.

I don’t see any signs of an oil leak on the crankshaft seal on the flywheel side…

 

Are there any places on this engine that I need to look for oil leaks ? I know to check the crankshaft seals, but what about at fuel pump(plastic😟), governor shaft hole, points cover, etc ?

[ebinmaine 67,455]

11 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

Are there any places on this engine that I need to look for oil leaks ? I know to check the crankshaft seals, but what about

Are you still planning on removing the cylinder head?

That could be a place to look. 

 

The carb and breather should be removed and both cleaned out as well. 

When you reinstall the breather be SURE it's oriented the right direction.  

 

Fuel pump gasket is a potential area.  

 

The crank seals we've been leaving alone unless leaking.  

[953 nut 55,198]

You should be fine with either of those cleaners, blow off all the dry crud you can and then spray and blow dry areas from the top down.

[Horse Newbie 7,069]

39 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Are you still planning on removing the cylinder head?

Still pondering on that… I know it was running good/ at least as far as I could tell/ hear. But, I’m sure it could use a de-carbon, maybe lap the valves, set valve clearance…

I wasn’t planning on doing this much, but I always wind up doing that with tractors. I am going to fight the urge to do a lot of painting and keep the original patina.

 

[ebinmaine 67,455]

2 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

Still pondering on that… I know it was running good/ at least as far as I could tell/ hear. But, I’m sure it could use a de-carbon, maybe lap the valves, set valve clearance…

I wasn’t planning on doing this much, but I always wind up doing that with tractors. I am going to fight the urge to do a lot of painting and keep the original patina.

 

 

That's a GREAT looking tractor. 

I'd leave as much paint as possible alone.  

 

But the mechanical things.  

Just tackle it. 

You're there. It's partially apart.  Do it all.  

[Horse Newbie 7,069]

41 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

You're there. It's partially apart.  Do it all.

My sentiments exactly… may as well take the carb and head off…

[Horse Newbie 7,069]

I am thinking this head gasket from I Save Tractors… but I also need parts from Wheel Horse Parts and More, so maybe I could get it from Lowell…

Where do youse guys get your Kohler head gaskets ?

[oliver2-44 9,743]

This is where those old conservative teachers I had come out in me. If it has a fire ring and it’s not burned, I reuse them. I know their only $15 or so, I have a new one in the drawer, but I can’t help myself. If it’s not broke why fit it. 
OK now that y’all are laughing at me, here’s the really old school…Clean the head gasket, soak it in water for several hours, then put in the freezer overnight. The water soaked between the layers was to freeze and swell the used gasket back up. Let unfreeze and reuse. I actually tried this and mic’ed thickness and found no change. 
 

Now back to the real question. 

I buy from whoever sells one with the solid inner “fire ring”. 

Edited April 21, 2023 by oliver2-44

[Bill D 1,920]

1 hour ago, Horse Newbie said:

I am thinking this head gasket from I Save Tractors… but I also need parts from Wheel Horse Parts and More, so maybe I could get it from Lowell…

Where do youse guys get your Kohler head gaskets ?

NAPA should have them.  Made in USA.  Great price.

[ebinmaine 67,455]

5 hours ago, Bill D said:

NAPA should have them.  Made in USA.  Great price.

I couldn't find USA made just a few months ago. 

Can you please get some documentation on that ?

I'd buy those if available.  

 

 

5 hours ago, oliver2-44 said:

buy from whoever sells one with the solid inner “fire ring”. 

 

[Horse Newbie 7,069]

2 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

buy from whoever sells one with the solid inner “fire ring”.

What does a fire ring look like ?

[953 nut 55,198]

7 hours ago, Bill D said:

NAPA should have them.  Made in USA.  Great price.

Even Kohler OEM parts are made overseas now.

Since May 2007, engines produced by Kohler have come from Chongqing, China in a joint venture with a company called YinXiang Ltd. They work closely with their Chinese allies to develop, manufacture, market, sell and distribute most of Kohler’s general-purpose gasoline engines.

That said, it seems that Kohler engine parts are what comes from China. Their plants in Saukville, Wisconsin and Hattiesburg, Mississippi engineer and assemble these Chinese-made parts. So, they are still technically “made in the USA.” However, they also have some operations in Mexico.

[ebinmaine 67,455]

1 hour ago, Horse Newbie said:

What does a fire ring look like ?

Zoom in on the picture of a head gasket of a 16 horse versus an 8 horse.

 

The 16 horse is going to have a separate ring of metal on the inside circumference. That's the fire ring. Not all gaskets have that. It's an extra piece of insurance against high temperatures and combustion pressures.