ebinmaine 67,766 #301 Posted May 8 7 hours ago, wallfish said: reamer That's the term I was looking for. Thanks John. @Horse Newbie Those reamers aren't cheap but it's a great tool for your arsenal. As John states there are several other bores that can be straightened and bushed. That makes a difference for a worker tractor. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,081 #302 Posted May 8 2 hours ago, ebinmaine said: Those reamers aren't cheap Thus their name… 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,281 #303 Posted May 8 12 hours ago, Horse Newbie said: Will be looking for cold-roll steel for pin… if bolt winds up being used it will be grade 5 or 8, with the solid surface of bolt extending through front part at Attach-o-matic. Threads should not be wearing against anything… At the risk of belaboring the point, I apologize in advance... The pin is the easiest part to replace so you want it to sustain the wear rather than the axle or frame or attach-a-matic bracket. Common steel is just fine. Once the pin is bolted using the tab, it does not roll in relation to the frame or attach-a-matic--the only motion is the “pounding” of the tractor’s weight transferred from the axle. The axle does roll around the pin. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,081 #304 Posted May 8 2 hours ago, Handy Don said: The axle does roll around the pin Correct… the axle just has a limited amount of “travel”, say like when one side(right or left) front wheel may be higher than the opposite side… So “cold roll” is harder than common steel ?…. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,281 #305 Posted May 8 2 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said: Correct… the axle just has a limited amount of “travel”, say like when one side(right or left) front wheel may be higher than the opposite side… So “cold roll” is harder than common steel ?…. Sorry about adding confusion. Steel rods from sources like HD, Lowes, or the jungle site are usually cold-rolled. What I think of as common or plain steel. Cold rolled is stronger than hot rolled because the strain from the pressure of rolling/shaping the steel alters its molecular structure. In hot rolling, the steel is in a more plastic state when shaped and doesn’t incur the same kinds of strain. Hot rolling yields less precise dimensions but can be a less expensive process than cold rolling, hence designers specify it where appropriate to save money! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,081 #306 Posted May 8 Not really adding confusion… I look at it as a learning experience. So… the idea is let the pin wear, not the frame holes or axle housing ? So… cold roll would be harder than the cast axle housing, causing the housing to wear… So, use a bolt or what ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill D 1,927 #307 Posted May 8 I believe this pin is still available. Might be easier to buy one. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,281 #308 Posted May 8 (edited) 15 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said: So… the idea is let the pin wear, not the frame holes or axle housing ? Yes, definitely So… cold roll would be harder than the cast axle housing, causing the housing to wear… Technically no. Cast iron is somewhat harder than the pin and wears slower. @wallfish noted that wear is inevitable and reaming and bushing is “the way back” to snug fitting. Remember, of course that the bushings themselves will wear somewhat quicker than the pin (25 years vs. 40, maybe 😉) but that pressing out and replacing worn bushings is not difficult or expensive. So, use a bolt or what ? Frankly, I have a hard time making short term fixes--my disposition is toward making it “right.” I’d start with an unworn pin (not a bolt) If it fits reasonably snuggly into the frame, attach-a-matic, and axle holes (i.e. without a lot of play) then I’d go with the new pin only. If it is loose only in the axle, I’d ream and bushing the axle to the pin size. If it is loose at the frame and attach-a-matic as well, then they would get bushings too. Edited May 8 by Handy Don 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,081 #309 Posted November 17 Okay, so I have started back on the C-160. I needed to clean up my shop so I could walk around. I am trying to get it rolling so I can load it up for a trip to my welder friend’s shop. I was trying to reattach the front axle and tie rods. Probably doesn’t matter, or does it, on how the tie rods go(left/right)? But anyways I know I have them correct on that issue, but can anyone the me where the rub marks may have come from ? See pic. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,766 #310 Posted November 17 (edited) I can toss out a couple guesses but they're just that. A cab that was rubbing. The tie rods were installed backwards and touching some previous implement. A bump stop was removed or ground down so the tie rods hit the frame. Edited November 17 by ebinmaine Correct autocorrect 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,081 #311 Posted November 17 I found the way they were in from a previous pic. Also found what the tie rods were rubbing… see pic. They were rubbing the back of what I call the king pin for the front axle. I am gonna have to replace the king pin because it was gouged out and worn. I tried building it back up with JB Weld but I don’t think that would last long at all. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,081 #312 Posted November 17 Only have one thick washer to hold the front wheels on… These two thin ones will work long enough to just roll it around. Does any know the proper term for the thick washer with the bolt going through it ? The hole is a tighter fit where the bolt goes through… a tighter fit than a regular washer. I think it might be called a “machine washer”. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,281 #313 Posted November 17 (edited) I usually think of washers much wider than their holes as “fender washers." The two common type of washer are USS and SAE. Among other differences between them, the latter have smaller holes that more tightly fit on the bolt. Edited November 17 by Handy Don 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,081 #314 Posted November 17 So I’m thinking the washers that go up against the bearing race will be SAE. Thanks a million @Handy Don. I will use that terminology at the hardware store when I shop for the permanent washers. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,081 #315 Posted November 17 (edited) Well this is sorta derailing the thread, but I had mentioned previously that I needed to clean my shop so I did as much as I could. I didn’t want to stay out there too late Progress was made… Idid manage to get started removing some of the red overspray form painting the 1994 520-H and 48 inch SD mower deck. All painting will have to be done outside now during “painting season”. Floor is a little dirty. Edited November 17 by Horse Newbie 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 12,174 #316 Posted November 17 9 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said: the red overspray At least yours didn’t end up on the hood of your wife’s truck! Some moron at my house actually did that! “Baby, I was like 25 feet away!” Shop looks too nice now. You gotta mess it up! 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,393 #317 Posted November 18 4 hours ago, Horse Newbie said: Does any know the proper term for the thick washer with the bolt going through it ? The hole is a tighter fit where the bolt goes through… a tighter fit than a regular washer. I think it might be called a “machine washer”. Take your pick. https://www.mcmaster.com/products/standard-washers/ 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,281 #318 Posted November 18 18 hours ago, Horse Newbie said: So I’m thinking the washers that go up against the bearing race will be SAE. Thanks a million @Handy Don. I will use that terminology at the hardware store when I shop for the permanent washers. Be prepared for blank looks from the store staff, of course! 16 hours ago, 953 nut said: https://www.mcmaster.com/products/standard-washers/ One of my favorite places to get educated--their website is full of clear information. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wheelhorse#1 1,670 #319 Posted November 18 Mc Master- Love that place.If they don’t have it’s not made.Not to mention the service is excellent but it’s not cheapest. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,766 #320 Posted November 18 18 minutes ago, Wheelhorse#1 said: Mc Master- Love that place.If they don’t have it’s not made.Not to mention the service is excellent but it’s not cheapest. Agreed. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,393 #321 Posted November 18 21 minutes ago, Wheelhorse#1 said: the service is excellent but it’s not cheapest. If you go to ACE or any big box store that has those Hillman hardware assortments you will pay an arm and a leg IF what you want is in stock. I try to anticipate my near future hardware needs and stock up to ease the shipping cost from McMaster-Carr. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,766 #322 Posted November 18 2 minutes ago, 953 nut said: If you go to ACE or any big box store that has those Hillman hardware assortments you will pay an arm and a leg IF what you want is in stock. I try to anticipate my near future hardware needs and stock up to ease the shipping cost from McMaster-Carr. I do the same with McMaster Carr Bolt Depot RCPW Whatever other online places... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 12,174 #323 Posted November 19 On 11/17/2024 at 2:36 PM, Horse Newbie said: I found the way they were in from a previous pic. Tim, this reminded me of the issue I had with a 520 axle a while back. The long tab on the lower steering shaft is pretty easy to bend towards the front, especially if someone had to drive out an old rusty tie rod bolt. You just need to bend the tab back a little and your tie rods won’t rub anymore. Your pic is first, mine is the second one for reference. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,081 #324 Posted November 20 @kpinnc, I did not even think about that possibility. I will check it… 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,766 #325 Posted November 20 4 hours ago, Horse Newbie said: @kpinnc, I did not even think about that possibility. I will check it… @kpinnc. Good eye! We've seen that too. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
