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New to Me 1977 Wheel Horse C-160

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The Freightliner Guy
1 hour ago, 953 nut said:

 

You can borrow a torque wrench from Advance Auto or many other auto parts stores. Proper torque is very important to ensure that your engine won't fail.

ive got a couple

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Horse Newbie
2 hours ago, rjg854 said:

Just do a search for it, you'll get all kinds of places to get one.

Yeah,

I did see quite a few but I guess all were turned to the side where it wasn’t showing a fire ring. Do you fellows reckon most of them do have the fire ring. I would hate to order one and it not have the ring…

Maybe I’m over thinking…

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Horse Newbie
On 10/15/2023 at 1:11 PM, ebinmaine said:

Torque specs will be in the first few pages of the Kohler engine manual.  

 

Yes sir, I found the torque specs in the service manual and torqued them back down. I just hope I didn’t wiggle the aluminum side plate too much. I don’t think I did…

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Horse Newbie
1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

The Fire Ring will stick right out in the pics

So is this it… the thin ring around the inside edge ?

IMG_3140.png

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ebinmaine
7 hours ago, Horse Newbie said:

So is this it… the thin ring around the inside edge ?

 

Yessir 

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Horse Newbie

So the service manual says to use a piece of wood or a plastic putty knife to scrape the carbon off the piston and top of the block.

I have been cautioned about using a steel wire brush as it may leave steel bristles that may get down in the bore and damage the cylinder wall.

I was told maybe use a brass brush as the bristles are not as prone to break off.

I will use a brush to clean the head as there will be no danger of bristles getting into the bore.

Then sand the head on a granite or glass surface…

How do youse guys do it ?

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Edited by Horse Newbie
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ebinmaine

You're headed the right way.  

 

We have a particular piece of known  flat steel set aside for hand planing the heads.  

 

Hand planing is VERY time consuming sometimes and ALWAYS worth it.  

 

 

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SylvanLakeWH

:text-yeahthat:

 

Kinda like:

 

image.jpeg.1a139df211f65363554f10f6c1436d70.jpeg

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Horse Newbie
9 minutes ago, SylvanLakeWH said:

:text-yeahthat:

 

Kinda like:

 

image.jpeg.1a139df211f65363554f10f6c1436d70.jpeg

 

IMG_3141.gif

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953 nut
2 hours ago, Horse Newbie said:

service manual says to use a piece of wood or a plastic putty knife to scrape the carbon off the piston and top of the block.

I made a scraper from a scrap piece of maple and maintain a good edge on it using a block plane.

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ebinmaine

Wax on, wax off is actually pretty close.  

 

We normally will do about 30 to 50 swipes. 

Turn the cylinder head 90⁰. 

Repeat. 

Repeat.  

Repeat.  

 

We've done quite a few. 

We start with 120 to 150 grit but we have experience in what to look for. 

You should probably start with 150 to 180 grit. 

Go to 240 or 280. 

Go to 320 or so. 

Then finish off with a few minutes at 400 grit. 

 

Your base piece

MUST

BE 

FLAT 

 

I can't emphasize that too much.  

 

Some folks use wet sanding. 

We don't. But we keep the paper dust free  by wiping or blowing it off between turns of the cylinder head.  

 

 

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Horse Newbie

I was looking around on the internet for parts… points and condenser…

I saw this…

My serial number on my K341 is 7465208.

A note says to install a new push rod on engines with a serial number below 13007371.

Have you guys ever heard of this ?

Guess I will have to check the manual…

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Edited by Horse Newbie
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pfrederi

I have seen two different length rods  I would go with what Kohler says about replacing rod

From Partsd manual

 

 

 

Screenshot 2023-10-18 154806.png

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Wheelhorse#1

Looks unmolested ,great find, enjoy !

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Horse Newbie
On 10/18/2023 at 5:47 PM, Wheelhorse#1 said:

Looks unmolested ,great find, enjoy !

The wiring had some repairs from a PO that is questionable…

Will not be molested by me…

maybe some heavy petting though…

😆

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953 nut
On 10/18/2023 at 3:48 PM, pfrederi said:

two different length rods  I would go with what Kohler says about replacing rod

I recall reading that the ignition points configuration was changed and if the newer style point were used a newre push rod was needed.  :confusion-confused: Can't remember where I saw that.

Edited by 953 nut
fat finger
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953 nut
29 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

Can't remember where I saw that.

Turns out it was in our manuals section.   :rolleyes:         Seems the older (prior to 1983) points push rods were aluminum and wore down over time. If it is not worn below 1.50"  length and 0.84" diameter you should be able to use the old one.

When Installing 47 150 03-S breaker points on engines below Serial #13007371 (Early 1983 production), always use new push rod 41 411 01-S

 

The minimum length of Kohler engine models K90/K91, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, K482, K532 and K582 ignition points pushrod is 1.500" and maximum length is 1.550" (new)

Used pushrod to be no less than .184" in diameter and 1.500" in length

 

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Horse Newbie
6 hours ago, 953 nut said:

I recall reading that the ignition points configuration was changed and if the newer style point were used a newre push rod was needed.  :confusion-confused: Can't remember where I saw that.

Would this mean a new push rod of the same length, or a different length ?

I went ahead and ordered the new push rod part number they said…47 411 04

Edited by Horse Newbie
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Horse Newbie
5 hours ago, 953 nut said:

always use new push rod 41 411 01-S

 

Up above in post # 238, does it not say push rod # 47 411 04 ?

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Horse Newbie

So today I renewed my supporter status for another 2 years.

That got my head right to work on the decarboning of the head on the K341.

 

Last night I placed an order to 

isavetractors for:

 

1. Head gasket (with fire ring)

2. Points cover gasket

3. Breather cover gasket

4. Oil pan gasket

5. Spark plug

6. Points and condenser

7. Points push rod

 

When I read the service manual, I read- clean the combustion chamber with a piece of wood or a plastic scraper.

What it said was clean the head and combustion chamber with a piece of wood or plastic scraper.

 

What I did…

 

Cleaned the head with a brass brush, sandpaper, and very gently with a putty knife.After I got the inside part of the head as clean as I could I got a piece of granite and taped some 180 grit sandpaper to it.

The I made fifty strokes in one back and forth direction, rotate 90 degrees, 50 strokes, rotate, repeat.

I did this until I got down to a smooth finish.

Then I switched to 400 grit and did the same.

After that I cleaned the top of the piston and valves with a plastic scraper, and vacuumed it good…

anything else you guys would do ?

What do you think… good enough ?

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Edited by Horse Newbie
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ebinmaine

That. Looks. Excellent.  

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Horse Newbie

Today I took a little road trip to @kpinnc’s

stables and carried the K341 with me to remove the balance gears.

@Lee1977 (Don) dropped by too. The balance gears had a little slop in them but Kevin said they weren’t real bad. I wanted them out regardless.

We also cleaned the valve stems up and lapped the valves.

When a few gaskets come in that I ordered I will begin putting the K341 back together. First the carb will get a cleaning.

 

Don let me drive his 1980 Hi-Lux 4x4 Toyota Pick Up to Bojangles for some grub and it was a real treat as I had not driven a stick in a long time. It took me back to when I was driving my 1981 Hi-Lux 4x4.

Thanks a lot Kevin and Don !

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kpinnc

Always a pleasure when you fellas come by. I had a great afternoon tinkering on tractors! :thumbs:

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953 nut
11 hours ago, Horse Newbie said:

The balance gears had a little slop in them. I wanted them out regardless.

You did the right thing, those bearing weren't going to get any better on their own.

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Lee1977

We had a great time yesterday afternoon, we need to do it more often. 

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