ebinmaine 67,455 #101 Posted March 20, 2023 16 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said: I seen part of a number on the side of the switch that began with 103. I will clean it and get the complete number. I was looking on Parts Tree… do you think they have decent switches ? PM sent ... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blasterdad 2,692 #102 Posted March 20, 2023 1 hour ago, Horse Newbie said: First thing I need to do is get an ignition switch and I need a wiring diagram for a 1977 C-160. Model # 71-16K801-1994 Can someone help me out with a wiring diagram. I don’t mind trying to find it on here but I struggle trying to do it on this phone… Thanks… 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,069 #103 Posted March 20, 2023 36 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: Switch number should be a 103990 I seen part of a number on the side of the switch that began with 103. I will clean it and get the complete number. I was looking on Parts Tree… do you think they have decent switches ? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,069 #104 Posted March 20, 2023 Thank you @Blasterdad !… helping an iPhone illiterate out ! 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blasterdad 2,692 #105 Posted March 20, 2023 2 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said: I seen part of a number on the side of the switch that began with 103. I will clean it and get the complete number. I was looking on Parts Tree… do you think they have decent switches ? I find Parts Tree pricey, I got one from Tractor Supply for A LOT less. Just make sure it's a 103990 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GAJoe 844 #106 Posted March 27, 2023 (edited) On 3/19/2023 at 7:33 PM, Horse Newbie said: First thing I need to do is get an ignition switch and I need a wiring diagram for a 1977 C-160. Model # 71-16K801-1994 Can someone help me out with a wiring diagram. I don’t mind trying to find it on here but I struggle trying to do it on this phone… Thanks… A bit different than above. Labeled as a 1977 revised in 2020. Came from : Edited March 27, 2023 by GAJoe added details. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blasterdad 2,692 #107 Posted March 27, 2023 The above diagram shows optional elec PTO & hour meter wiring. Neither one shows the polarity of the ammeter though, light green from B terminal goes to the negative terminal on the ammeter & red goes from positive terminal on the ammeter to the battery + side of the solenoid. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,620 #108 Posted March 27, 2023 @Horse Newbie nice pick up on that , https://www.bing.com/search?FORM=UP97DF&PC=UP97&q=cable+wrap+spiral regilarly use cable wrap and stick / screw on tye wrap mounts for wiring refit , only a reference , if you can get it locally , cheaper , better . also reroute wiring eliminate tight / chafing areas ,problems , added grounding is very easy and simple , check as you go to verify what you have . would also put some road time on that trans flush , been using high mileage ATF fluid for the flushing refill , also pick up front end to enhance trans drain . like lucas 80-90 gear oil , heavy duty , high performance . with CLIMBING LUBRICATION additives . like a light stp , flinging around in there . shifts easier , and quieter too . good luck , pete 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,069 #109 Posted April 16, 2023 So I decided to start tinkering with my C-160… I thought I would wash her up by hand to get some of the grime off of the old girl. Well naturally I had to start removing parts so I could reach more crooks and crannies. I got the hood off and the rear fender/ seat pan. I already knew I needed a shifter boot. Question… Is the belt guard for the drive belt supposed to be mounted like this ? It looks like the PTO linkage bracket needs to come off. Anybody know a shortcut or easier way ? 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,069 #110 Posted April 16, 2023 (edited) Okay @ebinmaine, the C series expert… and connoisseur… see above question… Edited April 16, 2023 by Horse Newbie 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Docwheelhorse 2,660 #111 Posted April 16, 2023 Thats my favorite WH.... that version of C with the gas tank under hood and the big Kohler K is just impossible to beat I would've drove 3 times that far for it! 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 12,013 #112 Posted April 16, 2023 (edited) 13 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said: Anybody know a shortcut or easier way ? Take that clutch brake off and throw it as far as you can into the woods. Wait until dark and go look for it without a flashlight. If you find it, reinstall it. It serves no real purpose unless you have no belt on the PTO. It also defeats the purpose of having "tool free" belt changes. And yes, the older belt guards attach at the engine block. That C160 is as nice as I've seen around here. Slightly faded, but all original and clean. I wouldn't change a thing! Edited April 16, 2023 by kpinnc 2 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,069 #113 Posted April 16, 2023 6 minutes ago, kpinnc said: Slightly faded, but all original and clean. I wouldn't change a thing This one will retain the petena… 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,069 #114 Posted April 16, 2023 Okay you old hands… I hope that term is not derogatory… I am using it in the context of experienced… What’s the secret to getting this muffler loose ? Just where the muffler slides on… not the treaded part to the ngine… 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,455 #115 Posted April 16, 2023 58 minutes ago, kpinnc said: Take that clutch brake off and throw it as far as you can into the woods. Wait until dark and go look for it without a flashlight. If you find it, reinstall it. It serves no real purpose unless you have no belt on the PTO. It also defeats the purpose of having "tool free" belt changes. And yes, the older belt guards attach at the engine block. Agreed. If you undo the 3 bolts circled in white you should be able to slide the belt guard out from under the PTO bracket. 9 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said: Okay you old hands… I hope that term is not derogatory… I am using it in the context of experienced… What’s the secret to getting this muffler loose ? Just where the muffler slides on… not the treaded part to the ngine… Remove the air filter and it's base to create more room. You should be able to pull OUT at the bottom of the muffler to loosen that top joint. Push back down. Repeat. Repeat. That one looks great so it oughtta work it's way off fairly well. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,620 #116 Posted April 16, 2023 @Horse Newbie . kroil penetrating oil , an 18" pipe wrench and a 3 lb hammer , use hammer just behind adjustment to jaw area , perfect leverage of impact point . learned that from a pipefitter , never fails , pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,069 #117 Posted April 16, 2023 (edited) 3 hours ago, ebinmaine said: Agreed. If you undo the 3 bolts circled in white you should be able to slide the belt guard out from under the PTO bracket. Remove the air filter and it's base to create more room. You should be able to pull OUT at the bottom of the muffler to loosen that top joint. Push back down. Repeat. Repeat. That one looks great so it oughtta work it's way off fairly well. Isn’t there a chance of breaking the inlet pipe on the muffler if I pull too hard ? So once again I have went farther than I wanted to… Edited April 16, 2023 by Horse Newbie 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,069 #118 Posted April 16, 2023 3 hours ago, peter lena said: @Horse Newbie . kroil penetrating oil , an 18" pipe wrench and a 3 lb hammer , use hammer just behind adjustment to jaw area , perfect leverage of impact point . learned that from a pipefitter , never fails , pete So what ?… whack the pipe wrench in the tightening direction as to not loosen the threaded piece coming from the engine ? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,069 #119 Posted April 16, 2023 (edited) So how many are thinking to themselves “ Horse Newbie, now that you’ve went that far, may as well decarbon the head”…? Edited April 16, 2023 by Horse Newbie 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,455 #120 Posted April 16, 2023 16 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said: Isn’t there a chance of breaking the inlet pipe on the muffler if I pull too hard ? Yes but... A. If it breaks it was already soft. B. That's not the right muffler anyway. That's the later model that's too big for the mid 70s C Series. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,455 #121 Posted April 16, 2023 10 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said: So how many are thinking to themselves “ Horse Newbie, now that you’ve went that far, may as well decarbon the head”…? TBH I would have pulled the head FIRST. We've taken the habit of removing the cylinder head from every refresh. I now consider it to be a basic tune-up puzzle piece. Remove. De Carbon. Hand plane the head. Get NEW head bolts and gasket. Reinstall. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,069 #122 Posted April 17, 2023 1 hour ago, ebinmaine said: B. That's not the right muffler anyway It’s a Nelson… 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,455 #123 Posted April 17, 2023 7 hours ago, Horse Newbie said: It’s a Nelson… 9 hours ago, ebinmaine said: That's the later model that's too big for the mid 70s C Series. Same company yes. Different muffler. The ones used up to around 1978 or 80 had a smaller Can diameter. They were 2.75". The later style like you have is approximately 3.5" diameter. The original (smaller) type was already pretty close and needed to be angled just right. The later one is too big to be used long term without burning the paint on the front vertical of the right hand hood side. @Oldskool has been dealing with a similar situation. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1977 6,657 #124 Posted April 17, 2023 18 hours ago, kpinnc said: Take that clutch brake off and throw it as far as you can into the woods. Wait until dark and go look for it without a flashlight. If you find it, reinstall it. It serves no real purpose unless you have no belt on the PTO. It also defeats the purpose of having "tool free" belt changes. And yes, the older belt guards attach at the engine block. That C160 is as nice as I've seen around here. Slightly faded, but all original and clean. I wouldn't change a thing! I do leave my brake bracket on, but I have it so far away from the pulley that it serves no purpose. If all the parts are still there the crank shaft will have a screw in the end with with washers and bearing and a spring. You don't need that either. Set it up just like your GT 1600 with out all that crap. All it was good for was to sell brake bracket and destroy pulleys. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,069 #125 Posted April 17, 2023 Got a question… I am wanting to clean the Kohler of grease and crime as much as possible… Would it hurt to spray Purple Power or something similar behind the flywheel, and then maybe rag it out as good as I can without pulling the flywheel ? Of course then I would have to rinse… would that hurt ? 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
