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TractorEd

‘79 C-161 - Parts?

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TractorEd

I put on some special front hub dust covers, too.

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389A990B-9313-447C-9F2E-3AE9290012B1.jpeg.0c05daa091758b51f70825ee7f01550c.jpeg
 

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TractorEd

And I re-ran the ground for the taillights and used one of those 3-way bullet connectors.

 

1A0A4F44-76E0-458F-A646-F22BB61A8DD9.jpeg.22a54b5dd2c1bbe8cf04c16c7e2ab275.jpeg
 

I can’t show it hooked up very easily; sorry no pic of that.

Edited by TractorEd
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ebinmaine
3 hours ago, TractorEd said:

dust covers

Them wheels look snazzy!!! 

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TractorEd

Thanks for the great idea @ineedanother !  I rounded up some can cozies to use as straw holders.

E04DDB37-E0F2-4BD0-9D4A-4E585D2729D9.jpeg.08e7dc69fd67ecbc9adab3e865c94d39.jpeg

 

@ebinmaine Now I, hopefully, won’t lose the straws for 2 of my new fave penetrating fluids!

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TractorEd

For my finale of the day …

 

C9FE693D-B450-4A43-AC06-256C580D3C82.jpeg.8847533e55b126f96d90e8c879e73b85.jpeg

 

I installed a “charging port”:scared-shocked:!

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ebinmaine
54 minutes ago, TractorEd said:

straws

Niiiiice 

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c-series don

A white paint pen and some patience will make that dashboard look new! 

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WHX??

:text-yeahthat:There is a really good thread in instructionals on doing it. 

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TractorEd

A5A6FBC7-082B-4919-862D-1079AF5E3634.jpeg

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TractorEd
On 1/27/2023 at 6:01 PM, Blasterdad said:

 

What do you mean by "Bucks like crazy"?

If the rubber isolators in the shaker plate are in good the engine should move very little. 

It's very common for those rubber mounts to be rotten, & from what you're describing they're probably shot.

One of the best mods for the shaker plate engines is to replace them with solid mounts.

Toro wants a fortune for the rubber replacement mounts & the solid mounts make everything rock solid.

I just put a set on my C-161, they make a BIG difference. 

These are what they look like, I think they were around $60.00. (precision machined billet aluminum & way less expensive than the rubber ones).

 

 

 

@Blasterdad where can I get a set of those solid engine mounts?

 

Thanks,

Ed

 

Ed-it:  I guess the Zach Kerber photo gave it away, lol.  I see them on that site, but just to be sure, it is one size fits all, right?

:)

 

Re-Ed-it:  Thanks for the info on these!  I just bought a set.  :thumbs:  And my apologies, my brain is scrambled today.

 

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TractorEd

We had some help Saturday collecting sticks and cutting down a couple trees.

 

5BD0283A-99B1-4244-8CC8-EBB95F1346C7.jpeg.bd3c118176bd3269c407b5805fc731b5.jpeg

 

Those 2 really enjoyed learning how to operate that parts tractor.  It ran and drove real nice!

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TractorEd

I am back to working on the c161 after a very busy year.  Finally got those Zach Kerber engine mounts installed!

 

IMG_4161.jpeg

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c-series don

Nice! Apparently everyone that installs them loves them. When I restored my C-121 and 161 I got new rubber ones which when new I think work just fine but they are expensive and I believe NLA.If I do another C-Series restoration I will definitely go solid mounts. 

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oliver2-44
On 2/1/2023 at 3:22 AM, ebinmaine said:

When you have enough ground wires that the harness is starting to look like black spaghetti it's just about right 👍

@ebinmaine

what the H*LL are you doing running BLACK ground wires. GREEN is the STANDARD color for ground wires!!

BLACK is a HOT wire color!

 

Reason for my rant.

I replaced the 8 wireLED tail light on my RV yesterday. Left side was wired with different colors than right side. That whole vehicle was wired with what ever color was in front of them at the moment. #%*£

 

 Excellen work on saving the C-161 @TractorEd

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ebinmaine
4 minutes ago, oliver2-44 said:

@ebinmaine

what the H*LL are you doing running BLACK ground wires. GREEN is the STANDARD color for ground wires!!

BLACK is a HOT wire color!

 

:no:

 

With all due respect I VEHEMENTLY DISAGREE. ....

 

Black is ONLY a standard hot color in 120+ volt systems. In those setups green is ground/neutral. 

 

In 12 VOLT systems BLACK is industry wide standard for the installers and manufacturers to use:

BLACK AS THE MAIN GROUND

 

Red is hot on every 12V I've ever seen.  

 

That's NOT just for battery cables.  

 

After the MAIN circuits of red and black every color is used so the schematic diagram can be deciphered more easily. 

 

 

 

 

4 minutes ago, oliver2-44 said:

 

I replaced the 8 wireLED tail light on my RV yesterday. Left side was wired with different colors than right side. That whole vehicle was wired with what ever color was in front of them at the moment. #%*£

 

THAT'S due to the sheer and utter stupidity of the builder.  

 

 

4 minutes ago, oliver2-44 said:

 

 Excellen work on saving the C-161 @TractorEd

 

Absolutely agreed!

 

 

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oliver2-44
14 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

 

:no:

 

With all due respect I VEHEMENTLY DISAGREE. ....

 

Black is ONLY a standard hot color in 120+ volt systems. In those setups green is ground/neutral. 

 

In 12 VOLT systems BLACK is industry wide standard for the installers and manufacturers to use:

BLACK AS THE MAIN GROUND

 

Red is hot on every 12V I've ever seen.  

 

That's NOT just for battery cables.  

 

After the MAIN circuits of red and black every color is used so the schematic diagram can be deciphered more easily. 

 

@ebinmaine

I’ll concede our tractors ground is black. 
Guess I’ve been doing too much vehicle work and black is certainly not a standard for ground after the main battery cables. My class C RV is built on a Chevy 4500 chassis. White is ground on the Its panel. Some of the dash components that have case grounds that are green. 
 

The power plants 48v and 120v DC systems use black hot and white ground. 

No wonder I’m confused. 
 

I,d be better off if I just worked on tractors. 

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ebinmaine
5 hours ago, oliver2-44 said:

better off if I just worked on tractors. 

That my friend is absolutely true!! 😀

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TractorEd

@ebinmaine

I pulled the tranny off so I could get at that push/tow valve better.

 

Was finally successful removing it using a pipe wrench.

IMG_4225.jpeg
Thinking about welding a nut on there; not sure JB weld would hold.

 

IMG_4227.jpeg

 

That nut is just sitting there for a visual.

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ebinmaine
51 minutes ago, TractorEd said:

Thinking about welding a nut on there; not sure JB weld would hold

 

 

I put J. B. Weld on mine because I didn't want to screw up the two washers/ Orings that are on the shaft. It's been holding fine. 

If you have the welder handy and you're replacing the soft parts anyway that would be a better option. 

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TractorEd
21 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

 

I put J. B. Weld on mine because I didn't want to screw up the two washers/ Orings that are on the shaft. It's been holding fine. 

If you have the welder handy and you're replacing the soft parts anyway that would be a better option. 


I have several replacement o-rings.  The nylon “spacer” has a (looks to me like) factory diagonal split in it that allows it to be removed and installed.

IMG_4228.jpeg


I said I needed to stop complaining about it, but my welder isn’t the best.  Not sure it would be hot enough for this task.

 

Adding this as info for me and others:

In other posts, the o-ring for this (WH #971012) says it’s a dash 905 (-905).  My o-ring kit uses R-DD codes and -905 cross references to R-05.  Which is AS568 number 012.  I’m not an o-ring aficionado so that took me a while to get to that R-05 code.

 

What to do about that welder…

Edited by TractorEd
Added nylon spacer pic
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ebinmaine
9 hours ago, TractorEd said:

about that welder

 

There's been a few threads on them. 

Several years ago I bought an antique Lincoln stick welder and learned to use it enough that 2 pieces of metal are bonded. This past spring I got a HF Flux core machine. 

I haven't taken the time to use it yet having so many other things going on. 

I've heard a good many times that an inexpensive welder of certain brands combined with a good quality wire will do a pretty decent job.  

 

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TractorEd
17 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

 

There's been a few threads on them. 

Several years ago I bought an antique Lincoln stick welder and learned to use it enough that 2 pieces of metal are bonded. This past spring I got a HF Flux core machine. 

I haven't taken the time to use it yet having so many other things going on. 

I've heard a good many times that an inexpensive welder of certain brands combined with a good quality wire will do a pretty decent job.  

 

I’ll have to seek those posts out.  The welder I want costs more than I want to spend.  I do appreciate the info and encouragement, EB!  

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Handy Don
On 12/30/2023 at 9:42 PM, TractorEd said:

What to do about that welder…

After a frustrating year searching for a good deal on a used one, I I caved and bought new on sale.

 

I decided on a MIG/Flux Core unit knowing that flux core would be adequate for what I was doing but (knowing myself) wanting the option to upgrade without having to replace the machine. The marginal extra flexibility of TIG/stick wasn’t important to me.

 

Getting to “ok” with flux didn’t take too long and, as it turned out, after only a few months I found a good deal on a barely used 80cf shielding gas tank so now I’m on a new learning curve.

 

The one caution I always offer to welder buyers is NOT being cheap on protective gear--auto-darkening mask, gloves, etc.

 

Good luck!

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TractorEd
1 hour ago, Handy Don said:

The one caution I always offer to welder buyers is NOT being cheap on protective gear--auto-darkening mask, gloves, etc.

I have been amassing the protective gear, starting from when I got the 120v stick welder years ago.

 

I added an auto-darkening helmet yesterday. :handgestures-thumbupright:


Now I just need a 50% off coupon for the welder!

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TractorEd

Made a lift height indicator.  Took three tries to get it just right.

IMG_4253.jpeg

IMG_4254.jpeg

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