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TractorEd

‘79 C-161 - Parts?

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TractorEd

One of the steering wheel spokes is broke   :angry-banghead: right at the outer ring/grip, where the PO had installed a wheel spinner.  The spinner was gone when I got it, so I got a new spinner and installed it. :auto-driving:

 

It stiffened that broken joint up a bit, but is far from ideal.

 

I only just started putting penetrating fluid :coffee: to it last night.  Pin is basically seized.  It’s a 3-spoke wheel, hard plastic and doesn’t have a removable center cover on top.


Should I leave it well enough alone?

 

Should I get that wheel off there? :tools-hammerdrill:

 

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Blasterdad
6 hours ago, TractorEd said:

Should I leave it well enough alone?

 

                         :text-yeahthat:

My vote.

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c-series don

I think we’re going to need pictures 😂

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WHX??

:text-yeahthat:I like saving old things...now @c-series don... all his stuff is NOS...:ychain:

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oliver2-44
14 hours ago, TractorEd said:

Should I leave it well enoug

Should I get that wheel off there? :tools-hammerdrill:


I don’t spend more than a few minutes to try to drive pins out.  I learned from  @Achto to use a carbide glass/ceramic drill bit. I spray some penetrant as I drill to keep bit cool. Works great!  

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TractorEd

@Blasterdad I probably should have left well enough alone, but I didn’t.

 

I started with liberal amounts of penetrating fluid for about 12 hrs.

B8070957-C351-4DB4-BA12-BB0072453EF5.jpeg.30cab2374e0defedb517703734985e8c.jpeg

 

Then went at the pin with a hammer and punch.  I had a bar wedged between the wheel collar and the work bench which is against the wall.

 

I cracked the plastic base of the wheel in the process.  Then I used a wood chisel to finish splitting that crack open.  With the pin and metal wheel base now fully visible I can see that I had mushroomed the pin and that’s why it wouldn’t move anymore.

So, I ground the pin down to the metal wheel base and then used an air hammer to drive it most of the way out.  A few hits with the punch and it was free.

 

I took the metal wheel base off the steering shaft with a puller.

D26E0C4A-C053-4195-8FD0-4C72A75C4EF9.jpeg.44f6e020875e93db14d3f00f0ac46b74.jpeg


So, I do’d it.  If it looks like this when ur dun then u dun gud.

E3758A73-9A20-4024-A0EB-7277A81FC872.jpeg.e7718b70b8831d5ac63b032f2dec1fed.jpeg

 

Wrecked my back, but after a good nights sleep I feel fine.  Glad I don’t have to keep working on that again today!  Good riddance!

 

I bought another original wheel from @A-Z Tractor and it’s out in the barn waiting to go on, but I don’t think I want to put a roll pin back in there.  I might replace the roll pin with a bunch of toothpicks.

 

@oliver2-44 I just bought a set of carbide ceramic/glass drill bits a few months ago.  I didn’t think they would work on steel.  Maybe should have researched some more!

Edited by TractorEd
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c-series don

I think you did the right thing by replacing the wheel. A cracked one would drive me crazy(er) ! I’d apply copious amounts of anti-seize to the pin and the shaft so if there’s a next time it’ll be a bit easier! 

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TractorEd
1 minute ago, c-series don said:

I think you did the right thing by replacing the wheel. A cracked one would drive me crazy(er) ! I’d apply copious amounts of anti-seize to the pin and the shaft so if there’s a next time it’ll be a bit easier! 

Anti-seize!  You bet!!!  Thanks!

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ebinmaine
19 minutes ago, TractorEd said:

 

PENETRATING FLUID  

 

B8070957-C351-4DB4-BA12-BB0072453EF5.jpeg.30cab2374e0defedb517703734985e8c.jpeg

 

 

 

The 2 on the left ARE. 

 

The two on the right are cans with another substance in them.  

 

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TractorEd
54 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

The 2 on the left ARE. 

 

The two on the right are cans with another substance in them.  

 

But, I did follow your advice with the Seafoam and Liquid Wrench!  I would have Kroil in that pic too but I couldn’t find it locally (where I looked anyway).

 

I left the other 2 in there just for the jeers.

:teasing-poke:

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ebinmaine
8 minutes ago, TractorEd said:

But, I did follow your advice with the Seafoam and Liquid Wrench!  I would have Kroil in that pic too but I couldn’t find it locally (where I looked anyway).

 

I left the other 2 in there just for the jeers.

:teasing-poke:

 

 

Kroil is great stuff but it's three times the price of Liquid Wrench 🔧 and that keeps me from buying it or even looking for it.

A friend of mine who's a truck tech gave me a spray can a few years ago and it worked great.  

 

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Handy Don
3 hours ago, c-series don said:

copious amounts of anti-seize

In my experience with how far this stuff goes, a "copious amount” is about ½ of a water drop!

And be ready with rags to wipe it off unintended surfaces!

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WHX??
7 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

 

The 2 on the left ARE. 

 

The two on the right are cans with another substance in them.  

 

Why don't you like the blaster? I use it with decent results. 

The guy that invented the adjustable spray nozzle on it should be made a saint!  

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SylvanLakeWH

:text-yeahthat: :confusion-confused:

 

I use it and liquid wrench... similar results... :twocents-twocents:

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ebinmaine
1 hour ago, WHX?? said:

Why don't you like the blaster? I use it with decent results. 

The guy that invented the adjustable spray nozzle on it should be made a saint!  

 

33 minutes ago, SylvanLakeWH said:

:text-yeahthat: :confusion-confused:

 

I use it and liquid wrench... similar results... :twocents-twocents:

 

Disclaimer:

I'm NO scientist and have never set up a true equal test. 

I firmly believe that successfully removing rusty bolts is a result of patience,  time and care in movement.  

 

 

I've tried several name brand penetrating oils over the years.  

In my own experiences...

Kroil was the clear winner. 

 

Liquid Wrench Penetrating Oil and WD-40 PENETRATING FLUID were similar in results. 

 

PB as a penetrant has given me poor results from the get go.  

Looking at the bolts as they come out there's very little actual fluid penetration from it.  

 

For the record I do use and recommend another PB product that's an engine/carb  cleaner degunkerizer. Great for diagnostics. 

 

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TractorEd
2 hours ago, ineedanother said:

Agreed. And koozies are the best solution I've found for those danged red tubes. :thumbs:

IMG_0553.jpg.a68b0d3e0cf2872a0beba940155b0624.jpg

Well I’ll be.  That’s slick!

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kpinnc
On 2/12/2023 at 9:05 AM, TractorEd said:

I might replace the roll pin with a bunch of toothpicks.

 

That's hilarious. Having broke a steering wheel last week myself, I completely understand.

 

I think I'll use a long 1/4 bolt next time. At least it can be drilled out! :rolleyes:

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ebinmaine
7 hours ago, kpinnc said:

 

 

 

I think I'll use a LONG 1/4 BOLT next time. At least it can be drilled out! :rolleyes:

 

Interesting old trick. 

 

I've done so too. 

 

Find a bolt that has an UN-threaded portion equal to the place you need to "pin". 

If the threads are too long when done you can cut that part off. 

 

We just did that on my 75 Automatic.  The hood hinges were replaced by a PO with regular threaded bolts. I didn't like having the threads in such a position that they could dig in to the holes so I found longer grade 8 bolts with nyloc nuts. 

Cut 2 more threads and... Perfect length! 

:handgestures-thumbupright:

 

 

IMG_20230206_165302552.jpg.3b43e81accc2cef8815380aace5e0854.jpg

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kpinnc
2 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

I've done so too. 

 

Scary! I use bolts and nylocks on the hoods all the time. Improves alignment when closing and eliminates hood rattling too. There's no more wear in the pivot afterwards either. 

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TractorEd
3 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

 

11 hours ago, kpinnc said:

 

 

 

I think I'll use a LONG 1/4 BOLT next time. At least it can be drilled out! :rolleyes:

 

Interesting old trick. 

 

I've done so too

 

@kpinnc @ebinmaine

I received the bolts I ordered for this yesterday.  I already have some nylok’s.

I was concerned that the bolt wouldn’t be as tight a fit as the pin, but we’ll see.

 

I didn’t find a 1/4-20 with a shoulder for this application; so I have a fully threaded one.  At least I’ll be able to steer again!

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TractorEd

Right after I posted above I did another search and found the shouldered ones I wanted.  So, they’re on their way. :lol:

 

Searched for:

1/4-20 x 3” SS partially threaded bolts

 

Found them on an online auction site.  2.2” shoulder (0.8” threads)

 

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pfrederi

The 1/4" Clevis pin and hair clip have worked pretty well on my Lawn ranger for 56 years...Comes out easy...

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kpinnc
1 hour ago, TractorEd said:

 

I didn’t find a 1/4-20 with a shoulder for this application;

 

Look at capscrews. They typically have longer shoulder lengths.

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TractorEd

Finally have the hardware and time to get the steering wheel on.

AE471144-A1AC-4C0B-996E-F3DB91C99AE1.jpeg.5e854f845f210d04cc457e8c0b9abea9.jpeg

 

2 3/4” seems ideal so I cut 1/4” off that 3” bolt.

883210B6-EA30-4C8D-97AA-6DE8D5A32987.jpeg.900c423e04ac307f464bbb06500b26f1.jpeg

 

E2FDE3AD-E1E2-41E5-B8F3-5AE5B3E9A7E0.jpeg.6eba076628ff025a7f82d5f949915a0e.jpeg
 

A7F85514-5D58-41FF-A1E4-9FCADE47B37C.jpeg.2b1dfbab5dc8419ef0fbc0cbd28e9b81.jpeg
Fits good.  No play using that bolt, so job done!

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