Any machinists out there (i have questions)

[gt14rider 761]

Need some help, ICRS, 

Cutting a keyway in a axle. 1/4" x 1" woodruff key cutter, 

What are the axles made of and what should the spindle speed be.

Cut a slot at 112 rpm. It seem slow. It's been 40 years since I worked a lathe. I need a (how to run a lathe/mill for dummies. 

Any help would be appreciated 

[lynnmor 7,306]

I tried to find you a good chart online, what a confusing bunch of nonsense.  Here is one that might help you, just plug in what you know and click calculate.  I would use the alloy steel option.  Be aware that the bearing area is hardened on a Wheel Horse axle and if that hardened area extends to where you are cutting, the cutter will be destroyed.  Test the hardness with a file where you intend to cut.

 

Be careful with that setup, climb milling may grab and suddenly pull the axle into the cutter causing breakage.  It would be best to plunge into the axle and feed towards the axle end.

[ri702bill 8,323]

2 hours ago, lynnmor said:

one that might help you, just plug in what you know and click calculate.

The LMS calculator resource is easy to use and extremely helpful.

Are you attempting to cut to the finish depth in one pass?? Don't forget to use a good cutting fluid....

Bill

[gt14rider 761]

@lynnmor so I should plunge 2" in and work out to end to avoid climb milling.

I was cutting 25 to 30 thousands and feeding by hand, using cutting oil. 

Does this calendar look right.

Thanks for your patience,  

 

 

[lynnmor 7,306]

Your feed direction is correct.  Can you lock the cross slide as you plunge?  It seems like you are experienced enough to understand that the cutter can grab and move the cross slide or the work piece if there is any uncontrolled movement, and that can get ugly.  The 340 RPM seems just a bit high in my opinion, but only because we can't know exactly what material the axle is made of.

[gt14rider 761]

Here are my speed options, I did cut a keyway at 112, seemed slow, what's your choice.  340 seems high agreed.

I know enough to hert myself or break things.   Thanks 

Edited January 26, 2023 by gt14rider

[lynnmor 7,306]

Can't you use the B position for some reason?  I would use the 211 if possible.  If not, I would use the 164.

 

Here is a chart that served me well for half a century:

Edited January 26, 2023 by lynnmor

[gt14rider 761]

 Will give it a shot, 

B pulley was broken when I got the lathe but will get a replacement. 

211 i will give it a try. 

              Thanks 

 

I'm sure that I'll have more questions. 

 

[gt14rider 761]

New B pulley replacement on the way.

Cleaning up saddle and apron and cross feed assembly's 

My woodruff key cutter is off . Has a .008 to .010 hop. 

  What do you think is best for cutting axles       Should I get a straight tooth or staggered tooth replacement? Any preference, brand?

 

[lynnmor 7,306]

5 minutes ago, gt14rider said:

My woodruff key cutter is off . Has a .008 to .010 hop. 

  What do you think is best for cutting axles       Should I get a straight tooth or staggered tooth replacement? Any preference, brand?

 

 

Are you sure that the cutter is bad?  I would place an indicator on the shank to see if the holder is running true.  If the cutter teeth are running out, it can be properly sharpened.  A stagger tooth might have less vibration and cut with less pressure, but what you have should be OK.   If you buy new, just stay away from the real cheap Chinese, and buy from a reputable company.  Brands to buy isn't like the old days where you had a few very good American companies that could be trusted, it is now just a crapshoot.

[Rick3478 428]

On 1/26/2023 at 3:42 AM, lynnmor said:

Be careful with that setup, climb milling may grab and suddenly pull the axle into the cutter causing breakage.  It would be best to plunge into the axle and feed towards the axle end.

 

Agree, also you are using a lathe for something that would normally be done with a mill, so be very careful as the lathe cross feed is not nearly as rigid or strong as a mill's main table.

[gt14rider 761]

  Cleaned arber and spindle                               1st, 2nd  pic  0 run out arber.

3nd and 4th pic before and after cleaning 

So after cleaning  .004 run out.

How would one get a cutter sharpened?

[ri702bill 8,323]

We have several sharpening services in the RI-MA area; there used to be a lot more. You need to find one that has the correct fixturing to regrind cutters like endmills (most of the services now just deal with culinary knives and sawblades)

The downside - turnaround time is about a week and the cost can be 1/3 that of a new cutter.

The upside - a properly reground endmill will cut like new and will be .010 to .020 undersize in diameter. Perfect to hog out keyways in a milling machine and then do the finish size cut with a different sharp new cutter....

[lynnmor 7,306]

Since the arbor has a set screw it will push the shank to the opposite side, any play in the hole will cause run out.  Loosen the screw and see how much the shank moves the indicator as you move it up and down, it does appear that the setscrew is pushing the shank to one side.  Also, try indicating inside the hole if you have an indicator that can do that.  Your run out may be a combination of things and not just a cutter problem.  Some run out of the cutter really isn't much of an issue anyway, just feed slower since fewer flutes are doing the work.