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ebinmaine

Filing points. What do you use?

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ebinmaine

I know there really is such a thing as an actual POINTS FILE.

 

And I did go to the time trouble and expense... probably $2... at some point in the last few years and actually bought one. Do you think I could find it now?? Oh no no no no.

 

So now I need to go out amongst the world of commerce and purchase this Bear 🐻 another... Of what?

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ri702bill

Eric - if material is transferring from one contact to the other, the points are the victim, not the source of the problem. The culprit is the condenser - the Microfarad value is off. Could be either the movable or the fixed contact that has the buildup. The rating is either too large or small - I used to know which... not anymore - that was a few too many beers ago.....

 

To clean the contacts, do not use sandpaper. A fresh, crisp Dollar Bill run thru the closed contacts removes oxidation and leaves no residue of its own..

Bill

Edited by ri702bill
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Pullstart

I have a points file, then always finish with a dollar.  If you’re a family of a plunger or a tin knocker, use 50’s.  They don’t carry singles :lol:

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pacer

 I know, I know, dont use sandpaper!! Sorry, but I've used a folded piece of wet/dry bout 400 grit - or, whatever is handy for the last 50 odd yrs, never seemed to make any difference....

 

See guy I worked with pulled over on the side of the road with hood up, pull over an ask if need help.... sez naw, it does this every now and then, I just clean the points with this ---- holds up a wood screw with bout 3" of those coarse threads, I just drag this thru 2-3 times and itll go for 3-4 more wks :wacko:

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wallfish

I'm always curious of why the "Do not use sandpaper"

 

I have always used sandpaper and never ever once had any issue at all. In fact, I have 3 sets of NOS Kohler points in the packages from easily 10 + years ago because I've never had to change points, just a sliver of fine grit sandpaper with the old points in place. There has been quite a few pass through and still is a whole bunch of engines here that got the quick easy sandpaper treatment without a problem. 30 + engines IDK

If a coil without a resister is used it will arc heat and pit the contacts which would be a good reason to replace them. But if they're flat and clean they work. If you have any concern about leftover grit from the paper then finish with a dollar

 

Here's my philosophy for using sandpaper. By pinching and sliding a sliver of sandpaper between the contacts while using the points spring as the tension, it sands the surface of the contact the grit is facing the same shape as the other pushing on it because it's flexible. Turn the paper over and the same result for the other. They end up clean with more contact area. Plus it's super simple and easy to just pinch a piece in there and pull it out and repeat until they are clean. A hard file can make them uneven. I'll use anything from 600 to 1200

 

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DougC

I have my fathers point file in a leather sheath in my odds and ends drawer in my at home tool bench. I just grab a chunk of crocus cloth and use that instead. If you have the ign. switch on you will know when the points have conductivity......:lol:

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pfrederi

See if BBT has a metal finger nail file....

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Ed Kennell

Dress mine like the FISH, but I use emery cloth....because I have it.

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lynnmor
56 minutes ago, wallfish said:

I'm always curious of why the "Do not use sandpaper"

 

The theory is that some grit will embed in the surface of the contact causing a loss of power across the points.  I have actually seen that happen, but it was with a woodworking kind with grit that was too course.

 

What @ebinmaine might want is a fine and flat jewelers file, they are available in sets of many shapes, or do the usual searching now that you know what to search for.

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ebinmaine
28 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

See if BBT has a metal finger nail file....

 

That girl is more likely to "file" her nails on a rock. 

No no seriously .... I've seen her do it.  

 

:ROTF:

 

 

 

6 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

now that you know what to search for.

EXACTLY why I ask you bunches o' peeps. 

 

I appreciate all the info.  

 

 

8 minutes ago, lynnmor said:
1 hour ago, wallfish said:

I'm always curious of why the "Do not use sandpaper"

 

The theory is that some grit will embed in the surface of the contact causing a loss of power across the points.  I have actually seen that happen, but it was with a woodworking kind with grit that was too course.

 

I can see the logic in that.  

 

I too have been known to use a fine grit good quality sandpaper to clean points followed by the old moolah bill.  💵

 

 

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lynnmor

I actually have an old points file, I like the fact that it cuts on only one side.  If I have the kind of points that can be taken apart, I'll then use a fine India stone.

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ri702bill
2 hours ago, wallfish said:

But if they're flat and clean they work

John hit the key word - flat. If they are angled, the contact area is greatly diminished and they burn from the current passing thru...

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ebinmaine
4 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

John hit the key word - flat. If they are angled, the contact area is greatly diminished and they burn from the current passing thru...

Two things there. 

I do try to be sure the paper and points are flat as mentioned.  

The "burn" is something I've thought about addressing on a slightly higher torque engine build I've been mulling over.  

There WAS a product on the market that's on "infinite forget backorder" due to a lack of components.  

 

 

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953 nut

If a set of points have pitted to the point you need to file the they need replacement. I do use a contact burnishing tool on points that are on an engine that has been sitting unused for a while or a new set of points to remove oxidation. Also good for S/G voltage regulator points.

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Achto

Been a lot of logic and suggestions so far. I personally have only ever used sand paper, 400 to 600grit wet sand paper followed by a couple swipes with a dollar bill. Never had an issue with my method. 

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gwest_ca

I use 800 grit crocus cloth which is similar to emery cloth but has brown or rust colored abrasive.

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ebinmaine

I find it extremely interesting that so many of us including myself have a longstanding and successful habit of using exactly what we have been told for generations NOT to do.

 

 

I don't suppose any of you know where this "don't use sandpaper"  thing started?

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Ed Kennell
19 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

I ind it extremely interesting that so many of us including myself have a longstanding and successful habit of using exactly what we have been told for generations

I don't suppose any of you know where this "don't use sandpaper"  thing started?

 

 I wondered the same thing Eric.          Is it possible Simond and Nichelson funded the scientific study of the impact of grit on hardened ignition point contacts?

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Kenneth R Cluley

Contact burnisher does a good job for me. Not too thick, small enough to get in tight places and supposedly "diamond" abrasive so no grit.

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lynnmor
25 minutes ago, Kenneth R Cluley said:

Contact burnisher does a good job for me. Not too thick, small enough to get in tight places and supposedly "diamond" abrasive so no grit.

I have diamond files with diamond that will come off just like any other grit.

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lynnmor
1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

I find it extremely interesting that so many of us including myself have a longstanding and successful habit of using exactly what we have been told for generations NOT to do.

 

 

I don't suppose any of you know where this "don't use sandpaper"  thing started?

 

See my post #9.

 

Some of us remember the cheap sandpaper where you got a pile of grit and some wood dust when you used it.  I'll bet that @formariz could give us some insight about the sandpaper grit issue. 

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Achto
1 hour ago, lynnmor said:

Some of us remember the cheap sandpaper where you got a pile of grit and some wood dust when you used it.

 

This is why I only use 3M paper. It cost more but it stays sharp and last longer. Actually think I come out money ahead cause I'm not changing sand paper after a few swipes.

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formariz
1 hour ago, lynnmor said:

insight about the sandpaper grit issue

There is definitely much more to know about the numerous different types of sandpaper. Its a big subject deserving its own thread. Many types of abrasives are used for many different applications. Wood and metal usually require different specialized types depending also on the application. In this instance anything 400 and over with Aluminum Oxide will be preferable .

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ebinmaine
21 minutes ago, Achto said:

 

This is why I only use 3M paper. It cost more but it stays sharp and last longer. Actually think I come out money ahead cause I'm not changing sand paper after a few swipes.

 

 

That statement is EB & BBT agreed and approved. 

 

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oldlineman

I don't know but I have a 1979 c-101 that I bought new and has had one set of points and condenser in its life. I can not remember cleaning the points more than 1 or 2 times. This tractor has alotttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttt of mowing and snow plowing time on it. Have I just been lucky or what. I have never had a lot of issues with points or condensers.I would not hesitate to use 400 600 wet dry paper for cleaning points if needed.  Bob 

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