Relief valve

[biglugnut 2]

My relief valve screw does not turn at all on my C-160 trans. What do I need to do?  I’ve been using Wheel Horses since a kid but started working on them now since inheriting a few. Thanks for any help. 

[ebinmaine 68,256]

 

 

We'd love to see pics of your Herd!

Several Redsquare folks out towards your direction. 

 

 

I've been meaning to ask this same question for my own 75 C160. 

 

@daveoman1966

@WHX??

[daveoman1966 3,758]

If that TOW/PUSH VALVE (relief valve) hasn't been opened...for about 50 years... it WILL be very difficult to free it. The threads of the valve will be rusted.... and that's why it is stuck tight.  see pic. 

I've struggled with these before... some success, some not.  Try to get a small set oof VISE GRIPS on the stem of the valve.  To do that, you'll need to remove the footrail and get the hoses out of the way.  Even with that, there is still little clearance to get the vise grips LOCKED on to the stem TIGHTLY.    

MAYBE the mechanics old trick of heating the valve, then melting some candle wax onto it...drawing the wax to the threads...will help...don't know.

[ebinmaine 68,256]

51 minutes ago, daveoman1966 said:

valve

@daveoman1966

 

Dave what's the parts source for these new valves?

 

 

[Achto 27,747]

[Ed Kennell 38,624]

I've had success opening a few by using a small 8" pipe wrench.    Like Dave said, you need to remove some tin and the wheel to get access.

Try closing it then opening and repeat many times.

[Ed Kennell 38,624]

Oh,  to the   Nut

[ebinmaine 68,256]

10 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

I've had success opening a few by using a small 8" pipe wrench.    Like Dave said, you need to remove some tin and the wheel to get access.

Try closing it then opening and repeat many times.

 

I've got one that's stuck right tight like it may as well be welded in there. Somebody in the past cracked it so the tip is broken off on one side.

Tractor is a part so of course access is nice and easy right now.

 

Is it okay to heat the heck out of that area with a propane or map gas torch?

I know there's a seal around that one piece but I'd like to get it out and replace it. What else could go wrong with heat there?

 

 

[Ed Kennell 38,624]

With it apart, I would try sliding a nut on what is left of the stem and welding it fast.       The heat will also go directly into the stem which may help to loosen it.

[Ed Kennell 38,624]

Stuck tow valves.....one of the big four Wheel Horse headaches right next to hub,  steering wheel, and drawbar pin removal.

Edited January 18, 2023 by Ed Kennell

[squonk 41,309]

Pipe wrench is a good idea. but it has to be a good brand wrench. Skip Horror Fright and get a good 8" Ridgid brand wrench 

[Pullstart 63,081]

3 hours ago, daveoman1966 said:

MAYBE the mechanics old trick of heating the valve, then melting some candle wax onto it...drawing the wax to the threads...will help...don't know.

  I love using wax on heated threads!  They come out smooth and silky after that, like a clean nylock nut.

 

@ebinmaine if yours is out of the tractor, what about rolling it back 90 degrees and soaking it with lube repeatedly for a while to let gravity creep a bit?

[ebinmaine 68,256]

5 minutes ago, Pullstart said:

  I love using wax on heated threads!  They come out smooth and silky after that, like a clean nylock nut.

 

@ebinmaine if yours is out of the tractor, what about rolling it back 90 degrees and soaking it with lube repeatedly for a while to let gravity creep a bit?

 

I'm liking that idea.

 

After I chip away about 13 lb of paint from that area.....

 

🙄

[pfrederi 17,863]

I have tried the candle trick several times over the years.  Not very successful...

[wallfish 17,078]

I'm with Ed, weld a nut onto the stem.

Use an impact gun to loosen, tighten and repeat in short bursts until it comes out.

[pacer 3,174]

At least youre working on a 'C' model!! The 'Big D's' are even worse cause you can NO way get in there with out major teardown. I had one of my D's that had the slot - for screwdriver - and it was so mangled, was no way to get to it with out big time tear down. Finally after the Sunstrand pump was showing signs of weakness, I went into it..... With it on the bench it took a 12" pipe wrench and a good bit of ...ooomph, to get that thing broke loose. Once off I cleaned it up and found a nut - 3/8-11/16?? and brazed it on the end.

 

Fortunately all my other D's had the hex head

[daveoman1966 3,758]

The part# of the TOW VALVE is 103460... but is marked as NLA.  ...Yoy MAY be able to source a used one as it is common to Sundstrand models 90-1136, 90-1137, 90-1140 in the 'B-100 auto' and C' automatics that use SUNDSTRAND. I just happend to have this one on-hand a couple years ago.   

  

[ebinmaine 68,256]

16 hours ago, daveoman1966 said:

The part# of the TOW VALVE is 103460... but is marked as NLA.  ...Yoy MAY be able to source a used one as it is common to Sundstrand models 90-1136, 90-1137, 90-1140 in the 'B-100 auto' and C' automatics that use SUNDSTRAND. I just happend to have this one on-hand a couple years ago.   

  

Do we know if the o-ring is a Standard Part ?

Looks like 2 stacked? 

[pfrederi 17,863]

It is an O ring and  Plastic backer.    All my hydros are old style top tow valves.  I reuse the plastic ring and out in a new Oring  (I believe yours would use Dash #012)

 

 

Edited January 19, 2023 by pfrederi