Lane Ranger 10,968 #26 Posted January 13, 2023 Picture of Kohler metal fuel pump with primer arm! 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
J854D 137 #27 Posted January 13, 2023 @Walleye Guy, Years ago I had a 753 with a Kohler K161S with the same Spec number as yours. (I still have the engine) It has the pulse/vacuum style fuel pump on it. My 854 with a Kohler K181S has the same pulse fuel pump on it also. -JD- 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Walleye Guy 22 #28 Posted January 13, 2023 Ed, I'll watch that video this weekend with my dad. Does anyone have the P/N for the mechanical pump with the offset arm? I'll report back next week what transpired over the weekend. Thank-you again to everyone. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,166 #29 Posted January 13, 2023 (edited) https://www.amazon.com/Carkio-Replacement-4155905-S-41-559-01-S-C-230361-S/dp/B087TSRJ82/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1MU8TX8WIA4Q4&keywords=fuel+pump+for+kohler+K141&qid=1673647972&s=lawn-garden&sprefix=fuel+pump+for+kohler+k141%2Clawngarden%2C94&sr=1-6 Check out this pump. It may be the one you need if you can't get a pulse pump to work. You can also go with an electric pump. Edited January 13, 2023 by Ed Kennell 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,216 #30 Posted January 14, 2023 The fuel line from the tank connects to the left side of the fuel pump on the 753 as you look at the pump from the front. This is opposite of the ten HP and up engines so I would suggest you check it out. The pump has two check valves inside to allow fuel to be pumped from the outlet but prevent it from being pumped back out of the inlet. If you apply a small amount of low pressure air (2 to 5 PSI) to the inlet it should pass through the pump but if applied to the outlet it shouldn't go anywhere. some sellers on eBay and Amazon sell the same pump with a bunch of part numbers because they look like the correct pump. If the direction of flow isn't correct you need to compensate for that. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Walleye Guy 22 #31 Posted January 16, 2023 Good news guys. We ran through the checklist and everything seemed to be installed correctly and there was no obstruction to get fuel to flow from the tank to the pump. Before we tried to pressurize the tank to force fuel into the pump, we removed the oil fill plug as Ed K described to feel for a pulse when cranking the engine over. There was a strong pulse but dad, when he turned the wrench to loosen the plug, realized that the plug was just finger tight. After he tightened it then the pump started pumping. So, now it starts but runs rough. We could keep it sputtering by turning the choke on and off so the next step is to examine the carb. A few years ago the carb was rebuilt (this was the first time it has ran since except for a little starting fluid when recently trying to diagnose the fuel pump) but maybe something got missed. One more thing: earlier I said that the original pump is probably gone but that was not correct. This weekend I learned that dad does have the original pump and it is a vacuum pump. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blasterdad 2,692 #32 Posted January 16, 2023 1 hour ago, Walleye Guy said: except for a little starting fluid Good to hear you got it sorted out ! It sounds like a good carb cleaning should get it running now... BTW, starting fluid is NEVER a good idea in our little engines, especially with that new vacuum pump. It's like putting an M-80 on top of your piston, BAD things can happen... Just use a little gas in a squirt bottle, I put 2 stroke mixed gas in mine, gives the cylinder a little help on startup. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,216 #33 Posted January 17, 2023 4 hours ago, Walleye Guy said: We could keep it sputtering by turning the choke on and off so the next step is to examine the carb. Also run a dollar bill between the ignition points to clean them. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Walleye Guy 22 #34 Posted January 17, 2023 Blasterdad, thanks for the tip on spraying mixed gas from a spray bottle. We'll start doing that. 953 Nut, good suggestion on cleaning the points. Can that be done without removing the flywheel? Getting back to the other responses, where is the breather located on that engine and how does one check its operation and also clean it? Thank-you again! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,166 #35 Posted January 17, 2023 The points are not on the flywheel, follow the wire from the negative coil post to the points cover at the lower left as you face the front of the engine. The breather is just below the carb. which you will need to remove to access the breather. You must remove and disassemble the breather to wash all the parts. Please take pictures as you remove the breather. The parts must be reassembled exactly and are easy to get mixed up. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 9,743 #36 Posted January 18, 2023 (edited) On 1/16/2023 at 1:52 PM, Walleye Guy said: So, now it starts but runs rough. We could keep it sputtering by turning the choke on and off so the next step is to examine the carb. A few years ago the carb was rebuilt (this was the first time it has ran since except for a little starting fluid when recently trying to diagnose the fuel pump) but maybe something got missed I noticed from your previous thread that you had the tractor running with the rebuilt carb last February. Sadly in a year ethanol gas can foul a carb it it was not run dry. Carefully drop the carb fuel brown and se it it is clean or has gooey gas or dried ethanol crystals that look like sand. You may be able to clean the bowl and remove the carb needles and spray carb cleaner down through them. Also look at the long needle closely and you will see some holes cross wise through it. Clean those out with spray carb cleaner too. If you have ethanol free gas available in your area your wheel horse will appreciate you using it. Edited January 18, 2023 by oliver2-44 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Walleye Guy 22 #37 Posted January 19, 2023 Update: my dad took apart the carb and said it looked fine (ie no varnish or gunk) so he reassembled it. Ed, I sent the points info from you to my dad and he's digging into it. Hopefully that will help it run much better than the current sputtering. I wonder how many sets of points he's changed in his life. Probably hundreds. Jim, I agree 100% on ethanol free fuel. I run it in all my small equipment but my Dad can't find it in his area so I need to help him locate a station with it so he can reap the benefits. He's religious about draining the bowls and running things dry at the end of the season, though, so that helps immensely. After the carb was rebuilt, the Wheel Horse never had fuel in the bowl until a couple months ago when he was trying to get it started. I'll send an update on the points whenever I get one. Thank-you all again for all the help and advice, I really appreciate all of you. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Walleye Guy 22 #38 Posted October 28 (edited) Guys, I owe you an apology for the long response it took to get an update but I finally have one. There are a lot of irons in the fire right now and the Wheel Horse 753 unfortunately fell to the bottom of a very long list. However, this past weekend my wife was out of town so I took my kids, drove two hours to my parent's house so dad and I were able to work on the Wheel Horse this past Saturday. We removed the oil fill pipe plug, cranked over the engine and felt a decent pulse with our hand while covering the fill plug hole. It didn’t' feel weak to me but I don't have any experience feeling for this pulse. I don't think you would consider it faint or weak. Next step, we verified that the inlet/outlet connections were correct with respect to the fuel line coming from the tank and the line going to the carb. Next step: we reinstalled the fill plug and snugged it with a wrench. With the fuel line going into a catch can, no fuel would come out while using the starter to crank over the engine so we removed the carb, removed the breather to inspect the reed valve. It rested flush on the mounting surface and appeared fine to me. I flicked it lightly with my fingernail and it sprang back to the sealing position without trouble. After this we reinstalled the fuel pump and decided to rig up a plastic gas tank from an old Craftsman mower and use gravity feed to supply the carb. After we hooked this up we cranked the starter and the Wheel Horse roared to life. There was no sputtering like it previously did with the pulse pump and we did not have to choke it to keep it going. It ran strong! So, now my question is this: does this mean our engine has a weak pulse so we should replace the NOS Kohler pulse pump we installed last year with a new mechanical type pump? And, if yes, what is the part number for an OEM Kohler mechanical pump for this 7 hp engine (engine SN = 652365, engine spec number = 28626E, engine model number = K161S). The cam does have the lobe (offset to the side) for a fuel pump arm…I saw it myself when the fuel pump was removed. Thanks in advance for any response and also for sticking with me through this. Edited October 28 by Walleye Guy 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
