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BHunter

Suburban 3 piece transmission rebuild

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BHunter

Hi , 

Im rebuilding my Suburban transmission and having trouble.  the new left cover needle bearing wont slide over the brake shaft that is in the middle of the case. Anyone have a solution? 
 

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SylvanLakeWH

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953 nut

Did you check both axle tubes to be square with the side plates? If they aren't it could cause the brake shaft to not line up. If that isn't the problem you may need to run a fine file over the end of the shaft and the key-way.

Edited by 953 nut
fat finger
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BHunter
30 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

Did you check both axle tubes to be square with the side plates? If they aren't it could cause the brake shaft to not line up. If that isn't the problem you may need to run a fine file over the end of the shaft and the key-way.

I didn’t check the tubes. I’m going to see if a file helps. 
thanks

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WHX??

Since Dino has already been tagged Bob @Lane Ranger is next...

I like Richard's suggestion too. Maybe some slight mushrooming ? 

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BHunter
1 minute ago, WHX?? said:

Since Dino has already been tagged Bob @Lane Ranger is next...

I like Richard's suggestion too. Maybe some slight mushrooming ? 

Thanks Jim. It came apart really easy with the old needle bearing. Maybe the new bearing is tight from pressing it in with my sledgehammer 😂

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WHX??

Well then you should know... avoid the BFH when going back together... :D

Tape them danged keyway! 

Edited by WHX??
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BHunter

This trans was full of water and the brake gear was rusted to the diff gear. I saved this horse from a scrapper about to turn it in for beer money. 

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Lane Ranger

If you have a new brass bushing in the axle tube you may need a little more honing on it to get the side blade to mesh correctly.  Also shouldn’t hurt to use a little Emory cloth on the brake shaft to clear any burrs etc.   

 

I used some of the older style bearings (not as precise ) that Buckranger uses to give more flexibility in the transmission.   They are bearings similar to original ones that were not as precise as most manufacturered today.  

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ri702bill
14 hours ago, BHunter said:

Maybe the new bearing is tight from pressing it in with my sledgehammer

 

:omg: :chores-chopwood:

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oliver2-44

As Lane said, if you replaced the axle bushings you will need to hone them to get some clearance or the diff will be too to turn when assembled. 

I've done 3 of these and learned something additional on each one.  One thing I do is before I assemble the whole transmission, I just test fit assemble the axles/diff into the case and side plates to bee if the diff can rotate. Then take apart, hone the bushings a little more, repeat, repeat.

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stevasaurus

Looks like the issues have been stated.  File burrs, and make sure all bearings are square in their places.  You also might turn the input shaft a little...sometimes helps.  Nice job saving that transmission !!  :occasion-xmas:

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BHunter
4 hours ago, oliver2-44 said:

As Lane said, if you replaced the axle bushings you will need to hone them to get some clearance or the diff will be too to turn when assembled. 

I've done 3 of these and learned something additional on each one.  One thing I do is before I assemble the whole transmission, I just test fit assemble the axles/diff into the case and side plates to bee if the diff can rotate. Then take apart, hone the bushings a little more, repeat, repeat.

Thanks for the info. It’s a learning experience for sure. I have another one to do on my other son’s tractor after this one is complete. Hopefully it goes easier. 

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BHunter
2 hours ago, stevasaurus said:

Looks like the issues have been stated.  File burrs, and make sure all bearings are square in their places.  You also might turn the input shaft a little...sometimes helps.  Nice job saving that transmission !!  :occasion-xmas:

Thanks! I will use your tips. I saved the whole tractor now. I’m glad the transmission can be saved. I have the original 4 hp too but it needs a rebuild. Putting a predator on for now. I’m going to look for a spare transmission to buy at the Big show. It’s nice to have spare parts. 

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stevasaurus

One thing for sure with these 3 piece transmissions, do not be afraid to hone those bronze bearings to be a little loose.  That trans can go together great until you tighten the screws and then the trans will not turn.  You will scratch your head and not be able to sleep at night.  Hone those bronze bearings a little more and Z-Wal-La.  Those side plates and axles are never perfectly square...close...but a little slop is in order.  Do it a little at a time and check fit.  Your patience will be rewarded!!   :occasion-xmas:

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BHunter
1 hour ago, stevasaurus said:

One thing for sure with these 3 piece transmissions, do not be afraid to hone those bronze bearings to be a little loose.  That trans can go together great until you tighten the screws and then the trans will not turn.  You will scratch your head and not be able to sleep at night.  Hone those bronze bearings a little more and Z-Wal-La.  Those side plates and axles are never perfectly square...close...but a little slop is in order.  Do it a little at a time and check fit.  Your patience will be rewarded!!   :occasion-xmas:

Great advice. I hope to have it together tomorrow. I’m going to do some honing and sanding with brake shaft with  Emory paper tonight. Thanks

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BHunter

Got the trans together . Followed your advice and everything fell into place. Thanks for the pro tips, they helped. 
just have to get some new bolts for it now and finish assembling. 

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stevasaurus

That is going to be one excellent horse !!  :occasion-xmas:

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WHX??

What brand rubber on the front Bob ... they look beefy or just the pic? 

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BHunter
12 hours ago, WHX?? said:

What brand rubber on the front Bob ... they look beefy or just the pic? 

These are 4.00-8 Deestone. Came as a pair with tubes too.  Got em on Amazon. They are a little beefy.

I figured they would give me some ground clearance if I ever make it to your plow days. 

Edited by BHunter
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Racinbob
On 1/12/2023 at 3:59 PM, stevasaurus said:

One thing for sure with these 3 piece transmissions, do not be afraid to hone those bronze bearings to be a little loose.  That trans can go together great until you tighten the screws and then the trans will not turn.  You will scratch your head and not be able to sleep at night.  Hone those bronze bearings a little more and Z-Wal-La.  Those side plates and axles are never perfectly square...close...but a little slop is in order.  Do it a little at a time and check fit.  Your patience will be rewarded!!   :occasion-xmas:

 

We remember that issue well, huh Steve. :bitch:I think those bronze axle bushing are the biggest issue. These transmissions certainly aren't built like Rolex watches. If the problem is the brake shaft I suspect the hammer had something to do with it. :angry-nono:

:)

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BHunter

I’m About to put the belt on a try it out. Should I be able to spin the input pulley by had and spin the wheels when it’s in gear?  I have it lifted up and the wheel won’t spin. 
I wanted to test it before hooking it to the motor. 

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stevasaurus

Yes, you should be able to turn the input shaft (counter clock-wise) whether in gear or neutral.  If in gear the tires will spin.  :orcs-cheers:

Remember, you need the belt guard in place to be able to shift without grinding gears.

Edited by stevasaurus
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wallfish

Yeah, it should spin the wheels, although very slowly if spinning the input by hand

If you put it on the ground and push it, it should spin the input shaft

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BHunter

I put it on the ground. The pulley doesn’t turn in gear . The tires are locked up. I put the belt on and started it. It moves in neutral but stalls the motor in gear. 
I tested everything when it was on the bench and after the side cover was bolted on. Seems like it’s stuck somehow. 
Hope I don’t have to rip it all apart. 

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