New tractor

[Redav72 227]

Just added my third.  Do I have a collection now?  At any rate it’s got a weird little rough bit when running and I can see wisps of smoke coming out of the carb.  I did a carb rebuild and replaced the plug.  Is there an adjustment that I need to make?  (the beeping is my carbon monoxide sector which apparently works)

 

Edited January 11, 2023 by Redav72

[Pullstart 62,849]

Awesome news!  A puff out the carb tells me either timing, or possibly a valve cleaning/adjustment is needed.  It might be worth pulling the head and inspecting the valves.  That rumble could be a carboned up combustion chamber, or could indicate needing carburetor adjustment too.  

[WHX?? 48,815]

One is a collection as far as we are concerned... 

[953 nut 55,218]

Ignition timing could be the problem. 

With a battery ignition system, the ignition points are closed the majority of the time. With the points closed and the ignition switch ON the primary windings of the ignition coil have current flowing through them and are developing a magnetic field in the iron core of the ignition coil. The moment the ignition points open the magnetic field collapses and induces a momentary high voltage pulse in the secondary windings of the coil which goes through the spark plug wire and arcs across the gap of the spark plug. If this occurs in the presence of a compressed fuel/air mixture of the proper ratio an explosion will occur within the cylinder. If this explosion occurs at the proper time in the engine’s cycle there will be pressure applied to the piston forcing it downward on the power stroke. The ignition points will continue to open further after this has occurred. How far they open is immaterial, their work has been done for that cycle of engine operation. What is important is when they open relative to the position of the piston on its compression/power revolution. If it occurs too soon there will be backfiring, too late and there will be a reduction of power. In the case of our Kohler engines the sweet spot is twenty degrees Before Top Dead Center, that is what the “SP” mark on the flywheel is set. At the moment the points open the condenser quenches the arc across the points extending their life, the rest of the time it just sits there.

Static timing can be done with Kohler engines that do not have a Spark Advance camshaft. The instructions in the Kohler Engine Service Manual for static timing of the later ACR camshaft engines calls for an Ohm Meter to be used. I prefer a 12 Volt Test Light. The light will be connected between the battery “+” terminal and the lead that connects the points to the coil (disconnected from the coil). When the points are closed the light will be on, the moment the points open the light will go off. You don’t have to be focused on it like you would on a meter. With the test light situated near the sight hole for the flywheel (spark plug out so the engine will turn with ease), turn the flywheel slowly by hand in the clockwise direction (counter-clockwise if on the PTO end) until the moment the light goes out. If the “SP” mark is centered in the hole you are done, if not you have a little work to do. If the points are opening too late, they need to be opened further, if it occurs too early they need to be closed up some. Make gradual adjustments until the “SP” mark on the flywheel is centered in the sight hole at the moment the light goes out. Now tighten the screw securely and turn the engine over several revolutions to be sure the points are consistently opening at the proper moment.

 

 

Edited January 11, 2023 by 953 nut

[peter lena 8,623]

@Redav72  good going on that pick up !  recovery  is what I  think of on a  tractor, take advantage of what works and enhance  that area , to verify  its function ,  usually run in a used engine  on a separate gallon of fuel , drop and clean fuel bowl ,with sea foam , ect  on a fast idle , probably drop fuel tank valve , clean out , add  a large fuel filter  close to tank , and another close to engine . as engine smooths out and is hot , drop the oil , personally , add  rislone zink  at the  oil refill point , instructions on bottle , like a 5-30 oil over winter , heats up quicker / changes to 30 wt  quicker . probably  have a  related  dirty engine  varnish  / sticky issues .  found  hot fresh oil  /  rislone  makes things run much easier , gain where and when you can .  run  engine long enough to get  hot , use your pto lever  , just to enhance oil flow to side thrust bearing . like to bring one back , wake it up , give it life ,  aerosol spray down the paint  , let it sit a day , wipe down till dry , do it again , just things  I do  .  good luck with it , questions , just ask , pete 

[Redav72 227]

Before and after, got quite a bit carbon out of the combustion chamber.

 

 

[oliver2-44 9,743]

26 minutes ago, Redav72 said:

Before and after, got quite a bit carbon out of the combustion chamber.

It looks like the piston had carbon on one side and was clean on part of it. If I recall correctly that is a sign of blowby. I have a k301 like that. It still runs OK, maybe a little power loss and has a small puff of whit smoke on startup.