ebinmaine 68,249 #51 Posted January 23, 2023 1 hour ago, Lee1977 said: Basically. just a bad design a little wear and loose pinions most likely caused the crack. They did away with the center piece held the pinions in the end plates with 4 bolts holding the 8 pinion together I'd agree with that. Really too bad they didn't/couldn't incorporate the Limited Slip back into the differential somehow. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
19richie66 17,522 #52 Posted January 23, 2023 According to the GT14 owners manual, it says they came with limited slip differentials. Were they 10 pinion? I didn’t think they were. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,742 #53 Posted January 24, 2023 49 minutes ago, 19richie66 said: Were they 10 pinion? Yes they were ten pinion. Mine is a 1970 and the bearings are not the 1533 on this model. I recall reading somewhere that the supply of 1533 bearings were unavailable for a short time and the Ponds made up for that by replacing the 1533 bearing with a Torington B-348 bearing and a race pressed onto the differential where the 1533 would ride. The one on the right is the GT-14 with the Torington races pressed on, one on the left was from a six speed. If the races were removed the two ten pinion units would be the same height. 2 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gt14rider 795 #54 Posted January 24, 2023 Time for a new spring. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,249 #55 Posted January 24, 2023 5 minutes ago, gt14rider said: spring Agreed. Lowell sells them. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,742 #56 Posted January 24, 2023 6 minutes ago, gt14rider said: Time for a new spring contact Lowell, https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product/7235-spring/ 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gt14rider 795 #57 Posted January 24, 2023 Got new bolts and lock nuts. Torque 33lbs 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gt14rider 795 #58 Posted January 24, 2023 Spring ordered and on the way. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gt14rider 795 #59 Posted February 9, 2023 Got it back together, should be good to go. New body, bull gear, spring, bolts and nuts, cut a keyway. 8 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
19richie66 17,522 #60 Posted February 9, 2023 That should last you a while. Nice work! 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,438 #61 Posted February 9, 2023 1 hour ago, gt14rider said: Looks terrific. Say goodbye when you button it into the case--should be the last time you ever see it! 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,249 #62 Posted February 9, 2023 Looks excellent! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tonytoro416 1,067 #63 Posted February 10, 2023 Does putting key stock in the shaft make removing hubs easier? I’m sure key stock is stronger than a woodruff key Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,249 #64 Posted February 10, 2023 3 minutes ago, Tonytoro416 said: Does putting key stock in the shaft make removing hubs easier? I’m sure key stock is stronger than a woodruff key I'm gonna theorize that the amount of rust welding would not be changed by the type of key. To make removing the hubs easier IIFF rust was the cause one would use a never-sieze ish product. They keys CAN be a cause of getting a hub stuck. I've definitely done it. Stands to reason to me a straight key could make the process easier by preventing the key rocking in the keyway groove. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tonytoro416 1,067 #65 Posted February 10, 2023 That’s what I was envisioning happening with the woodruff. Man I have had some hard pulling hubs as everyone has I’m sure 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 49,145 #66 Posted February 10, 2023 (edited) Got one now that has got some serious pressure on it. Set screw hole is taking BP blaster nicely but the heat wrench may have to come out. This is a hub that is different than most as is it has a smaller diameter center for 10 inch rims and @Pullstart wants them for a creation. Putting the puller to the test @Achto. I'm a thought away from splitting the tranny to take it to the press. I really don't want to bust up this hub. This tractor is getting setup for a plow mule so may need shorter axles or full cuts to be able to move 12" rims inboard. Somebody already had ther way with the other side which came off easy. Edited February 10, 2023 by WHX?? 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
19richie66 17,522 #67 Posted February 10, 2023 4 minutes ago, WHX?? said: Got one now that has got some serious pressure on it. Set screw hole is taking BP blaster nicely but the heat wrench may have to come out. This is a hub that is different than most as is it has a smaller diameter center for 10 inch rims and @Pullstart wants them for a creation. Putting the puller to the test @Achto. I'm a thought away from splitting the tranny to take it to the press. Heat it Nubby! It will come off if it’s taking blaster. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 49,145 #68 Posted February 10, 2023 I dunno man she kinda funny... 5 minutes ago, 19richie66 said: Heat it Nubby! It will come off if it’s taking blaster. Yah now you funny too... OK here's one for ya Ritchie ... how about longer axles with full length keys so a guy can mount two hubs on for duals? 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 27,746 #69 Posted February 10, 2023 16 minutes ago, WHX?? said: This tractor is getting setup for a plow mule so may need shorter axles or full cuts to be able to move 12" rims inboard. Don't you have a set of Cub Cadet rims. Think they were on the Raider that came to from Ryan. The off set on the CC rims would move the tires inwards. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 49,145 #70 Posted February 10, 2023 (edited) 19 minutes ago, Achto said: Don't you have a set of Cub Cadet rims. Think they were on the Raider that came to from Ryan. The off set on the CC rims would move the tires inwards. Yes correct... haven't dug them out yet. Will when I get this hub off. Not to hi jack your thread but these guys started it... Edited February 10, 2023 by WHX?? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,742 #71 Posted February 10, 2023 11 hours ago, WHX?? said: I dunno man she kinda funny... Yah now you funny too... OK here's one for ya Ritchie ... how about longer axles with full length keys so a guy can mount two hubs on for duals? The axle is induction hardened where the bearings ride so cutting a continuous keyway would have to end there. 11 hours ago, ebinmaine said: I'm gonna theorize that the amount of rust welding would not be changed by the type of key. To make removing the hubs easier IIFF rust was the cause one would use a never-sieze ish product. They keys CAN be a cause of getting a hub stuck. I've definitely done it. Stands to reason to me a straight key could make the process easier by preventing the key rocking in the keyway groove. The older 953s had a long sleight key-way and one of mine wouldn't budge. Lots of PB Blaster for several days, six ton hydraulic jack puller, no luck. Other hub had come off so I opened the case and differential and pulled the offending axle with hub. Figured the press would do the job but no luck with red hot heat and my twenty ton press. Took it to the machine shop where they have a 200 ton press and they heated it up and there was a very loud bang as the pressure was applied, the hub cracked the full length of the keyway; got the axle out! They "V" notched the crack heated it up and welded the hub up, They didn't charge me anything for the hub repair since they broke it. Needless to say I have recommended them to lots of people. 1 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
