Best Butt Connecter ?

[grinchsr 627]

We have all used a few butt connecters around our tractors at some point.  I am looking for the best ones and have no problem soldering if needed.  

[Achto 27,597]

30 minutes ago, grinchsr said:

no problem soldering if needed.  

 

Twist the wires together, solder them, slide shrink wrap over the bare section and seal. Best butt connection there is. 

 

Second choice if you want a crimp connection.

https://www.waytekwire.com/item/31965/16-14GA-Heat-Shrink-Blue/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwrLx_IS9_AIVBA-tBh24sgOkEAQYBSABEgL-t_D_BwE

Edited January 10, 2023 by Achto

[Tonytoro416 1,034]

Personally soldering is the way to go with heat shrink over the top IMO.  There are butt connectors with a solder ring inside and the solder melts around the wires when you heat it with a heat gun.  I have used all kinds but soldering to me is the best way for a permanent joint.  I worked maintenance in a factory and I have seen unbelievable weight hanging from two wires soldered together. 

[peter lena 8,632]

@Tonytoro416  agree with you on the soldering issue , something  I  add to any wiring set up  is  RE ROUTING  original  tight / chafing / cracked  set up .  regularly  wire wrap  , and  stick on tye wrap  hold points . also enhance / verify   grounding to the set up . since enhancing my grounding  , that has become the  foundation  to any wiring I  do . also regularly use , bolt on  electrical lugs , at  connection areas . keep improving , pete 

[ri702bill 8,327]

1 hour ago, Achto said:

1 hour ago, grinchsr said:

no problem soldering if needed.  

 

Twist the wires together, solder them, slide shrink wrap over the bare section and seal. Best butt connection there is. 

Shrink wrap comes in a couple of styles - I prefer to use the "Marine Grade" stuff. I has some kind of goo inside that melts to seal out water when heated - great for a 4 season tractor...

Bill

[Andy N. 2,154]

I have been using solder heat shrink butt connectors like these. No mess with solder since it's already in the sleeve.

 

 

 

 

https://www.amazon.com/TICONN-Connectors-Waterproof-Insulated-Electrical/dp/B07HCNTZ2Z/ref=sr_1_9?crid=1VCUPWOJH9SKW&keywords=solder%2Bsplice%2Bconnectors&qid=1673360404&sprefix=solder%2Bsp%2Caps%2C101&sr=8-9&th=1

[The Freightliner Guy 1,327]

2 hours ago, grinchsr said:

We have all used a few butt connecters around our tractors at some point.  I am looking for the best ones and have no problem soldering if needed.  

ahahahah you said butt thats funny 

[ri702bill 8,327]

No go there !!!

[WHX?? 48,826]

I'm with with the soldering crew. Nothing against crimping with the proper tool and on the job every thing was crimped due to time & ease. 

In the tractor shop I remove the insulator if it has one, solder then shrink. 

 

Most of my soldering is done with a HF cheapy micro torch.

Edited January 10, 2023 by WHX??

[grinchsr 627]

Thanks for the great butt advice guys.  Sorry I had to say it

[Handy Don 12,233]

3 hours ago, Andy N. said:

I have been using solder heat shrink butt connectors like these. No mess with solder since it's already in the sleeve.

I used to be a solder-and-shrink user for everything. Since last year I've become a fan of these integrated connectors, as well, for wire-to-wire links. Clean, quick, strong and no open flames. You do need a good heat gun that’ll give you at least 500º F to do the melting/shrinking. (Watch for a sale at your favorite tool source.)

BUTT () for two-to-one or two-to-two connections, I use these for the electro-mechanical and then add some “liquid black tape” for weather sealing where the wires enter the connector.

For wire-to-connectors, If I can use the correct crimper, I’m good with that. If not, back to solder and shrink!

Edited January 10, 2023 by Handy Don

[Pullstart 62,905]

In my wiring job today, I used a few of these for some 6 gauge wire.  I put a piece of heavy duty heat shrink tubing on either wire just past the stripped end, then slid a larger heat shrink tube over a wire and assembled… then heat shrinked the splice as well.  It’s in a breaker box, and I wanted to be sure the wires couldn’t touch each other.

Edited January 11, 2023 by Pullstart
Never posted the picture

[953 nut 55,283]

Best Butt Connecter ?

                  Oh, the trouble you could generate with a topic like that!                     

[WHX?? 48,826]

1 hour ago, Pullstart said:

In my wiring job today, I used a few of these for some 6 gauge wire. 

I hope telling us you soldered it first? 

 

You guys with the solder in the connectors you tryin to tell me the heat gun melts the solder? You must have to really lay the heat to it. 

Good thread Grinch... long over due for wiring methods. Really the only thing i am half a$$ed at .... 'spite the clowns with the mind in the gutter... 

Edited January 11, 2023 by WHX??
Speeling

[grinchsr 627]

I have a beat up 416 with an Onan. I am making the 9 pin go away. I know I can buy a connector and the pins but like I said it is beat up.  It lived in Rutland VT under a cover sometimes and sometimes not

[Rick3478 428]

32 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

 

You guys with the solder in the connectors you tryin to tell me the heat gun melts the solder? You must have to really lay the heat to it.

 

It's a low temperature solder alloy.  Don't know the specifics, but I'll guess tin/antimony.  And FWIW, solder is not the best choice for electrical connections.  It's good enough for low current through-hole circuit boards and other connections where convenient speed of assembly is a high priority.  But really, solder is a much poorer conductor than copper.  If you need high reliability or high current capability, crimp or twist first to get good copper contact, then you can flow some solder in to fill and exclude environmental corrosion.  Point being, copper should be counted on for most of the electrical work, while solder only does a little but can help in other ways.  The self-soldering shrink-on splices don't impress me, and I don't carry or use them.

[Handy Don 12,233]

13 hours ago, WHX?? said:

You guys with the solder in the connectors you tryin to tell me the heat gun melts the solder?

Yes. I set the heat gun to 500º. Low temp solder melts at 425-ish and then re-solidifies at 375-ish. Using a heat gun lessens the chances of damaging the insulation on the wires. (Most folks are not using temp-controlled soldering irons so overheating is a risk.)

The metal ring in the connector appears to contract gripping the wires at a temperature lower than the solder melt point.

I agree these are not appropriate for high wattage connections like starters or winches but for simple 12v lighting or activating relays/solenoids they are adequate, IMO.

[Pullstart 62,905]

14 hours ago, WHX?? said:

hope telling us you soldered it first? 

I updated with a picture.  This was in a breaker box in an enclosed trailer.

 

 

[Handy Don 12,233]

3 hours ago, Pullstart said:

Aluminum works just fine as long as the electrical connection is very solid and does’t generate heat that can cause loosening via thermal expansion/contraction.

[Pullstart 62,905]

@Handy Don come to think of it, I used steel - I just found a picture of aluminum