Engine oil flush?

[Brockport Bill 1,667]

Was wondering if when people obtain engines with old "black" oil, if people do an engine oil "flush" with fresh oil,  and then drain and then put in the "final oil"??  I know oil sits in the sump and can accumulate residue, shavings etc. So was thinking a "flush" with new oil, run engine to get warm, jack up front,  -- then draining and put in final oil. I am using "winter" oil of synthetic Kohler 10w30 with zinc additive.

[lynnmor 7,307]

5 minutes ago, Brockport Bill said:

Was wondering if when people obtain engines with old "black" oil, if people do an engine oil "flush" with fresh oil,  and then drain and then put in the "final oil"??  I know oil sits in the sump and can accumulate residue, shavings etc. So was thinking a "flush" with new oil, run engine to get warm, jack up front,  -- then draining and put in final oil. I am using "winter" oil of synthetic Kohler 10w30 with zinc additive.

I have flushed dirty engines with cheap oil.

 

The Kohler oil already contains the proper amount of zinc, adding more can make it acidic.

[Achto 27,597]

14 minutes ago, Brockport Bill said:

So was thinking a "flush" with new oil, run engine to get warm, jack up front,  -- then draining and put in final oil.

 

 

This sure will not hurt any thing. 

[Brockport Bill 1,667]

18 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

I have flushed dirty engines with cheap oil.

 

The Kohler oil already contains the proper amount of zinc, adding more can make it acidic.

i am not adding zinc -- the Kohler syn 10w30 comes with zinc additive

[953 nut 55,284]

Sounds like a good idea to me. The first thing I do with a newly acquired  is give it an oil change. Never had one that had black oil but if I did a second oil change would be done. 

[ebinmaine 67,562]

Another vote for change it, run it, change it again.  

 

[lynnmor 7,307]

34 minutes ago, Brockport Bill said:

i am not adding zinc -- the Kohler syn 10w30 comes with zinc additive

All motor oils have zinc, some more than others.  When you said additive it appears as thou you were adding something.

[Brockport Bill 1,667]

56 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

I have flushed dirty engines with cheap oil.

 

The Kohler oil already contains the proper amount of zinc, adding more can make it acidic.

 

here is the "zinc" oil i located recently - a prior thread from few weeks ago i read here provided excellent discussion about the zinc - - so after much searching i located the Kohler label  oil -- i ordered 30w, and 10w30 - should provide the benefit to older Kohlers as has been discussed here on RSq.

[Brockport Bill 1,667]

4 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

All motor oils have zinc, some more than others.  When you said additive it appears as thou you were adding something.

i did lots of google work a few weeks ago to find the actual measurments of zinc -- and this was a formula higher than typical - - thanks for the insights

[lynnmor 7,307]

3 minutes ago, Brockport Bill said:

 

here is the "zinc" oil i located recently - a prior thread from few weeks ago i read here provided excellent discussion about the zinc - - so after much searching i located the Kohler label  oil -- i ordered 30w, and 10w30 - should provide the benefit to older Kohlers as has been discussed here on RSq.

 

Good deal, I have been using the same for a few years now.  I did notice that the price went way up and there are considerable differences between suppliers.  @ebinmaine found another brand that was fairly priced, maybe he can chime in about current pricing, brand and stores.  I wouldn't doubt that it is the same oil with a different label.

[ebinmaine 67,562]

12 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

Good deal, I have been using the same for a few years now.  I did notice that the price went way up and there are considerable differences between suppliers.  @ebinmaine found another brand that was fairly priced, maybe he can chime in about current pricing, brand and stores.  I wouldn't doubt that it is the same oil with a different label.

Lyn the oil I found is called Kinetix. 

It was at the dealer where I bought the new commercial grade Ariens snowblower a few years ago.  

Used and recommended by them.  

 

Their price wasn't too bad and I found it available online by the case lot delivered to my house.   

 

We use either straight 30 or 10W30 depending on machine needs and season/temperature.  

 

[Brockport Bill 1,667]

for the first time this season my plow tractors will be stored in outside temps -- i have always plowed since 1989 with my 312-8 - kept in 55 degree garage -- but now i plan to use 2 C175 hydros with a plow and another c175 with a blower - - both stored in outside shed -- so winter here in Hudson River Valley, NY usually overnight in teens and 20s............can go to single digits, but rarely below Zero so i will use the 10w30 Kohler with their zinc additive for outside storage tractors - then switch to the straight 30w this spring/summer. -----------------the prices for the Kohler with zinc in it ranged from 9-13 dollars when i searched 2 weeks ago - much dependent on quantity purchased -- i had seen prior post couple weeks ago from Eric or someone about the Kinetix -- and i also have seen the Amsoil apparently has a higher zinc. thanks for info !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Wild Bill 633 846]

New rebuild, Shell Rotella 30 wt, until hot, drop oil refill and after 50 hours of break in with conventional oil.

https://amsoilcontent.com/ams/lit/databulletins/g2217.pdf

Oil change every fall irregardless of hours.

Edited January 9, 2023 by Wild Bill 633

[SylvanLakeWH 25,596]

2 hours ago, Wild Bill 633 said:

Oil change every fall irregardless of hours

 

 

Never more than 15-20 hours on my C 105. 

 

always drain when fully hot... front end up as high as can... Rotella 30 wt. 

 

More than enough "flush"...

 

[Brockport Bill 1,667]

14 hours ago, SylvanLakeWH said:

 

 

Never more than 15-20 hours on my C 105. 

 

always drain when fully hot... front end up as high as can... Rotella 30 wt. 

 

More than enough "flush"...

 

how long to get engine or hydro oil "fully hot" -- 5-10 minutes run time??? Should oil be hot/warm to the touch when touching it when it drains out?
 

[lynnmor 7,307]

2 hours ago, Brockport Bill said:

how long to get engine or hydro oil "fully hot" -- 5-10 minutes run time??? Should oil be hot/warm to the touch when touching it when it drains out?
 

I would say 15 minutes for the engine and much longer for the hydro.  I think that the most important thing is to have your tools and drain pan at the ready in order to drain immediately after shut down so the crud doesn't settle.

[SylvanLakeWH 25,596]

 

(I don't know about hydro, I only do manual)

[953 nut 55,284]

23 hours ago, Wild Bill 633 said:

after 50 hours of break in

             Did you mean five hours? Norm al oil change interval is twenty five hours.

[Wild Bill 633 846]

34 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

Did you mean five hours? Norm al oil change interval is twenty five hours.

I edit my post above.

On a new motor or fresh rebuild, I run conventional oil for 50 hours, with multiple oil changes, to break in the rings before switching to fully synthetic.

Also, one benefit of having many tractors is, none of them see 25 hours in a year.

The man with the most spark plugs wins!

Edited January 9, 2023 by Wild Bill 633

[Brockport Bill 1,667]

4 hours ago, Wild Bill 633 said:

I edit my post above.

On a new motor or fresh rebuild, I run conventional oil for 50 hours, with multiple oil changes, to break in the rings before switching to fully synthetic.

Also, one benefit of having many tractors is, none of them see 25 hours in a year.

The man with the most spark plugs wins!

curiosity question --- does it make a difference if "conventional oil" is mixed in an engine with synthetic oil --- i assume not since they sell "syn blend" ???????

[peter lena 8,632]

@Brockport Bill  do you use your pto  lever drive , even without  driving anything  during this heat up ?  think the slight added side thrust  adds to the oil  usage .  another thing I  make sure of  is a thorough heat up  of the oil , reading of the condensation issue  that appears to be common  should be addressed , been using 5-30  over winters  the oil temp changeover is faster  , also reducing  cold start smoking . my oils start changing color  about 20 hrs , keep a regular  look see on  everything . using  rislone zink  to  every oil change  , has made a very solid gain  to my engines  running easier  , and smoother . just stay after anything  , always snoopin around , for another change , pete     

[peter lena 8,632]

@johnnymag3   brought a few engines back from the  neglect zone , usually  gently run them in  on a separate gallon of heavily   treated fuel . after a carb  bowl drop / clean . heat them up for a more thorough  oil drain , adding  rislone zink  and  fresh oil  makes a very noticeable  smooth sounding engine  and running ease . done this enough  to make this my regular oil change  lubrication set up . have this on my  3 kohler magnums , very happy with it , running ease is  like night and day . think its the way to go . using a measuring cup  for  zink , no condensation , no crud on the dip stick .  STA -BIL  in all my fuel . it just works and gives me no problems , think I, ve found the  right combo . pete

[johnnymag3 2,520]

Pete....

 

   I am just like you..over the top...every aspect....through and pure...

 

The only way.,trouble free, and always at the ready....complete success, not a bit less !!!

[Brockport Bill 1,667]

4 hours ago, peter lena said:

@johnnymag3   brought a few engines back from the  neglect zone , usually  gently run them in  on a separate gallon of heavily   treated fuel . after a carb  bowl drop / clean . heat them up for a more thorough  oil drain , adding  rislone zink  and  fresh oil  makes a very noticeable  smooth sounding engine  and running ease . done this enough  to make this my regular oil change  lubrication set up . have this on my  3 kohler magnums , very happy with it , running ease is  like night and day . think its the way to go . using a measuring cup  for  zink , no condensation , no crud on the dip stick .  STA -BIL  in all my fuel . it just works and gives me no problems , think I, ve found the  right combo . pete

Peter --- when you say .... "makes a very noticeable  smooth sounding engine  and running ease" .?  What should i look for,  or listen for ??? Is it just a quieter engine - - or less sputter, less vibration, or is it smoother idle - - my ear probably isn't that well trained to hear the nuances of an engine - - Any tips are appreciated.

 

I know this sounds weird, or wishful thinking based on just reading your posting .... but actually after i changed the engine oil to the 10w30 syn that has the zinc additive in it - ( plus new fresh 10w30 hydro oil  in trans) i actually imagined the engine/tractorto  be quieter and smoother - - but i then convinced myself it was my imagination and wishful thinking... maybe not based on your insights???????????

[lynnmor 7,307]

Did you check the amount of zinc in other oils?  I said before that they all have it, just some has more than others.  ZDDP is in motor oil to reduce wear, I can’t imagine that there are any noticeable changes in the short run.