peter lena 8,576 #1 Posted December 31, 2022 https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=wheel+horse+%2c+lift+lever+plow+linkage&id=9EAA53AF2971F6FBBD63716F33953A87496463BF&form=IQFRBA&first=1&disoverlay=1 just snoopin around looking for ideas , what ever you set up , firm it up with washers and grease for function / ease of movement , eliminate a sloppy " shucking / lift area " , you want solid / smooth , greasy pete 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,151 #2 Posted December 31, 2022 I'm still thinking solid plow link lift bar with heim joints. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,576 #3 Posted December 31, 2022 @ebinmaine choices , if you use 3/8 female , flat heim joint , just a bolt thru hook up , to a 3/8 , threaded eye bolt / chain that would be pretty simple , if you had to use a 5/16 bolt thru , use a bronze bushing 3/8 x 5x16 , to make the bolt fit size to size . would also detail in lubricate the end bushing areas . eliminate all the hang up drag areas , washers , elastic lock nuts . when I first did it , thought it was broken , it worked so easy , had a similar result on my clutch pedal linkage set up , it worked so easy it was silly . when I read about squealing / wheels in the air clutch operation , mine starts off in 3rd , easily . you could also consider the 1/2" heim joint , have those on my plow quadrant to lever set up , very strong , smooth , no issues at all . sending some good ju ju thoughts , pete 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,151 #4 Posted January 2, 2023 I've set 7/16 rod ends and threaded rod in my McMaster Carr cart. We'll be using those as a plow lift link. I went with 7/16" over 3/8 OE size. Two reasons: The holes are almost always egged/oval worn. The strength difference of 7/16" over 3/8" is HUGE. Drill to round the hole and install. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,396 #5 Posted January 2, 2023 (edited) I do not use a solid link. I use a chain. Reason being, if the blade hits something in the road, instead of trying to lift the whole tractor, it only lifts the blade. I have an expansion joint at the end of my driveway where the apron meets the drive. At times there is a lip that sticks up. I'd rather lift the blade than jolt the whole tractor. Edited January 2, 2023 by rmaynard 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,576 #6 Posted January 2, 2023 @rmaynard good feed back on your experience , use that same brain fart type of thought on repetitive problems , stop right there and think , HOW CAN I MAKE THIS BETTER ? then I jump over the fence and eliminate it , use a ladder the next time , pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,151 #7 Posted January 2, 2023 48 minutes ago, rmaynard said: I do not use a solid link. I use a chain. Reason being, if the blade hits something in the road, instead of trying to lift the whole tractor, it only lifts the blade. I have an expansion joint at the end of my driveway where the apron meets the drive. At times there is a lip that sticks up. I'd rather lift the blade than jolt the whole tractor. We only use a solid link on MANUAL LIFT tractors. That way the lift arm just floats along with the plow so if there's an intrusion it isn't an issue. On my Automatic the plow is so EXTREMELY heavy I don't ever need any down pressure. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 11,866 #8 Posted January 4, 2023 I've said it before: on these 600lb machines, down pressure is highly overrated. Typically you just stop moving and dig a hole with spinning wheels before you know what happened. I agree with what has already been posted- solid link on manual lift only. You can "ride" the lift arm when needed, but likely won't break anything if the blade needs to jump. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,151 #9 Posted January 4, 2023 Just now, kpinnc said: I've said it before: on these 600lb machines, down pressure is highly overrated. Typically you just stop moving and dig a hole with spinning wheels before you know what happened. I agree with what has already been posted- solid link on manual lift only. You can "ride" the lift arm when needed, but likely won't break anything if the blade needs to jump. I've considered trying the mid-mount grader on the Automatic with Hydro lift. I think it might be very slightly more effective but I would have concerns of damaging the blade or linkage by putting too much downward pressure. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,103 #10 Posted January 4, 2023 1 minute ago, ebinmaine said: I've considered trying the mid-mount grader on the Automatic with Hydro lift. I think it might be very slightly more effective but I would have concerns of damaging the blade or linkage by putting too much downward pressure. Reasonable caution if thinking fixed link, IMHO. On tractors without full-length footrests and using a chain lift, one can put ones feet down on the mid-blade for a little extra pressure, eh? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,151 #11 Posted January 4, 2023 6 minutes ago, Handy Don said: Reasonable caution if thinking fixed link, IMHO. On tractors without full-length footrests and using a SOLID lift, one can put ones feet down on the mid-blade for a little extra pressure, eh? As you are well aware Trina has several tractors with no side steps. All of mine do have side steps. Personal preference. She uses an interesting combination of the solid link pushing down with the manual arm and doing as you just said, foot pressure per side as needed. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 9,638 #12 Posted January 6, 2023 On 1/4/2023 at 3:24 PM, ebinmaine said: I've considered trying the mid-mount grader on the Automatic with Hydro lift. I think it might be very slightly more effective but I would have concerns of damaging the blade or linkage by putting too much downward pressure. @ebinmaine I love using my mid-blade on my C160 auto with solid link. You learn how to just bump the hydraulic handle up when motor loads or a tire spins. Starting out you also can gradually bump blade down till motor loads then bump up/down as needed. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1977 6,632 #13 Posted January 19, 2023 Not being as tall as some of you, I used my foot on the lift lever for down pressure. Only problem I have is the clutch peddle is on the same side. A hydro with a rocker foot pad for the lift would be just about perfect for a grader blade, bet it would work great for a snow blade too. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites