dannyo 5 #1 Posted December 21, 2022 Hi all, A few months ago, I purchased a 32" snow thrower, with no model info, with hopes that it would fit my 875. Can someone help me identify the model? I've gone through most of the manuals listed on this site, but still can't figure it out. The blower also came with the 7.5" pully that is in the picture. Any chance I'll be able to get this blower to work on my 875, if I get the correct size belt, or should I stop now and list it for sale? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,037 #2 Posted December 22, 2022 Is that a serial number on the unit in the 2nd picture? Looks like a ST-323 to me 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,296 #3 Posted December 22, 2022 (edited) @dannyo Yup, ST 323. They only used the V belt to turn the chute in 63 and 64. The routing of your drive belt is incorrect - you need a shorter belt and do not use the PTO idler pulley, only the one at the base of the blower. Use the largest accessory pulley on the engine to drive it. WH belts are # 1589 and 1590. In 1965 they added a second sprocket inside the chaindrive to give more wrap on the auger sprocket - original had 3 teeth in engagement - resulted in a lot of sprockets getting the teeth stripped off.. I upgraded my NOS ST-323 before I used it. Edited December 22, 2022 by ri702bill 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dannyo 5 #4 Posted December 22, 2022 (edited) 8 hours ago, ri702bill said: @dannyo Yup, ST 323. They only used the V belt to turn the chute in 63 and 64. The routing of your drive belt is incorrect - you need a shorter belt and do not use the PTO idler pulley, only the one at the base of the blower. Use the largest accessory pulley on the engine to drive it. WH belts are # 1589 and 1590. In 1965 they added a second sprocket inside the chaindrive to give more wrap on the auger sprocket - original had 3 teeth in engagement - resulted in a lot of sprockets getting the teeth stripped off.. I upgraded my NOS ST-323 before I used it. thanks for confirming the model! Are you saying that I need either belt (1589 or 1590) or both belts? also, when you said to use the largest accessory pulley, are you taking about the large 6.5” that I had in the pictures or the existing pulley on the tractor? Edited December 22, 2022 by dannyo 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,296 #5 Posted December 22, 2022 Download the manual on the site here. One belt is the chute rotator belt, the other is the drive belt. The LARGEST of the 3 pulleys, the one closest to the engine is to drive the Unidrive. The slightly smaller one next to it is the one you want to drive the snowblower. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dannyo 5 #6 Posted December 24, 2022 Ok great, thank you very much! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 16,990 #7 Posted December 24, 2022 Take a crescent wrench to the auger edges to bend those back into shape for better performance. Might need to hammer out the curve in it too You can use the wrench to tweak the rest of the auger edges straight too. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,177 #8 Posted December 24, 2022 (edited) 3 minutes ago, wallfish said: Take a crescent wrench to the auger edges to bend those back into shape for better performance. Might need to hammer out the curve in it too You can use the wrench to tweak the rest of the auger edges straight too. I did this on the ’73 walk-behind I rescued some years ago. It made a surprising difference to have everything straight! I also touched up ragged edges with a fine file. Every year it needs a little tending and after I ran over the plastic-bag wrapped newspaper hidden under the snow, well, it needed a lot! Edited December 24, 2022 by Handy Don 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dannyo 5 #9 Posted December 24, 2022 7 hours ago, wallfish said: Take a crescent wrench to the auger edges to bend those back into shape for better performance. Might need to hammer out the curve in it too You can use the wrench to tweak the rest of the auger edges straight too. thanks! I was curious if that would cause any issues or not. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,589 #10 Posted December 25, 2022 @dannyo merry christmas ! read your problem with interest , having done a couple of blowers and related belt driven attachments for function. the major problem is COLLECTIVE DRAG , coming from pulleys starved for proper lubrication and related linkage / levers that are solid rust . also note your auger is rough , use 2 , 12 " adjustable wrenches in opposite directions , right on the bent areas , to remove angles. also raising that blower to a comfortable work height , makes work easier , and allows for functional checks as you go along . typically , pully bearings are shot , not enough spring pull on the related idler pulley frame , along with rust , makes for terrible operation . my blower was a mess at start , spun by hand when I was done , thats what you want , eliminate every , rusty / binding drag point . only a suggestion , look at INTENDED FUNCTION , and make it better , pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
