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Blasto

Blasto

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Blasto

Wheelhorse 416 hard to start ended up using starting fluid started up ran rough needed the chock part way open. when running it revs up and down. Need help any suggestions as to where to start?

Edited by Blasto
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oldlineman

Clean the carb, open it up and clean the small fuel passages and if not using ethanol free gas try to start using it or add a gas treatment. Bob  

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Blasto

OK, this is new to me, I guess the best way to do that is take the carb off. What do I need to look for as to being issues with the carb?

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Pullstart

:text-welcomeconfetti:   Now that you know you have a fuel issue, please toss the starting fluid and treat your engine well :handgestures-thumbupright:  Most of the shelf sniffing salts are more harmful than good.  
 

Berryman carb dip is a great full service cleaner.  It’ll still take a little elbow grease, brake clean, etc… to get all the passages clean.

Edited by Pullstart
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SylvanLakeWH

:text-yeahthat:

 

And :text-welcomeconfetti:

 

 

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Achto

:WRS:

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oldlineman

I have just removed the top of the carb while it was still on the engine and cleaned it as good as you can with spray carb clean, paying close attention to the small fuel passages. This worked for me, may take several times. If that doesn't work then the carb will have to come off and as Keven and Jim  said be soaked in a good carb cleaner.  

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WHGuy413

The mechanic at my work told me to ditch the carb clean and strictly use non-chlorinated brake clean. Can’t remember his reasoning now. I made the switch and haven’t had any issues. I had similar issues with my 416 I’ve taken the top Of the carb off and cleaned it that way without taking the whole thing off. Make sure you get in all the little holes. 

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oldlineman

Not sure brake clean would be good for the engine if carb was not removed from the intake. maybe other more experienced mechanics chan chime in on this one. Achto, Keven, Jim, Richard ?

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Pullstart
34 minutes ago, WHGuy413 said:

non-chlorinated brake clean. Can’t remember his reasoning now


+1 for brake clean.  I only use non chlorinated.  For welding purpose, if brake clean with chlorine were on the metal at any point, then the heat of welding were introduced, it creates a noxious gas that is deadly.  I’d imagine the same for an ignition cycle.  The heat could make poisonouser exhaust.

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Tuneup

Don't forget to look at the sides of the carb. There is a welch plug that can blow out on the PTO side. Was my problem. Would not idle and hunted at throttle. If cleaning can't get it back, you'll want to remove that plug to clean behind. Good luck!

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lynnmor

To clean a carb with an aerosol can, I use a spray carburetor cleaner since it is made to dissolve fuel related deposits.  I use it for both on the engine and on the bench for blasting small passages. 

 

Gumout Carb/Choke and Parts Cleaner 14 oz - 800002231W

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Daddy Don

:text-welcomeconfetti:

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Sailman

My experience with needing the choke to keep running has always been a clogged jet, hence the need for extra fuel to keep running. I pull the carb off, take both idle and main jets and needles out and clean with carb cleaner and air compressor. Have also stripped 12 gauge 110 electric wire down to single copper strands to run through those jets. Reassemble and set both idle and main A/F screws according to the kohler manual for starting point. Turn in till they bottom gently then;

K341 - low idle - 2 1/2 turns out, high idle - 3 1/2 turns out. But that's for the Kohler 16  HP..

Definitely use only non-ethanol gas.

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