Joker72 64 #1 Posted December 19, 2022 (edited) Finally starting the restore on my 74 D200. I figure I will track my progress on here to share content and also benefit from the collaborative group should I find myself head scratching. Here is a pre-start pic and a few of my current progress. Edited December 19, 2022 by Joker72 6 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Joker72 64 #2 Posted December 19, 2022 (edited) So far I've broken off all four exhaust mounting bolts with 3 left in the head. Two.were already broken off hanging on by a few threads. Edited December 20, 2022 by Joker72 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacer 3,173 #3 Posted December 19, 2022 Thats a nice original looking 'D' -- even got original mufflers (if the guts arent rotted out!!) 48 minutes ago, Joker72 said: four exhaust mounting bolts with 3 left in the head. Ive sure done that dance a few times!! Ive 'refurbed' some 6 'Big D's' and every one had broke off head/exhaust bolts. They are bad enough on a single cyl engine, but wrestling that big twin around to get to them is a pain! Thank goodness for Heli-coils.... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Joker72 64 #4 Posted December 19, 2022 So far what I see the bottoms of the mufflers are rotted off. Looks like the exit pipe running the length of the outer tube. I've got high hopes for her. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SylvanLakeWH 25,602 #5 Posted December 19, 2022 Looks like good bones... Following along... Morning Noon Evening 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacer 3,173 #6 Posted December 19, 2022 32 minutes ago, Joker72 said: mufflers are rotted Yeah, the last D200 I got, one of the big 'decision makers' to buy was the 2 mufflers looked pristine .... one of first things I done was to ck those out - a good pair of those were worth more than I gave for the tractor! - but, alas, the insides of them were completely gone/rotted and the shells were thin as toilet paper! I only broke 2 of those bolts This is what I go back with - they're cub cadets 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Joker72 64 #7 Posted December 20, 2022 (edited) May have to do some cylinder work. Would at least like to hone them while I'm in here. Edited December 20, 2022 by Joker72 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,916 #8 Posted December 20, 2022 Just think. More than half the hp of an original VW Beetle! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 27,609 #9 Posted December 20, 2022 11 hours ago, Joker72 said: Would at least like to hone them while I'm in here I would suggest measuring the cylinder bore before making a decision. Make sure it is still with in specs and doesn't need to be bored. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RedPower47 111 #10 Posted December 20, 2022 Joker i have a set of original mufflers that are not in bad shape, But if you want a nice set of mufflers then talk to Jim Kemp , he makes custom stacks and mufflers! He can make you a an original set just like it came with or i had him do a custom set for me with curved stainless tips coming out the front of my D180, Great guy to work with and does excellent work. 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,916 #11 Posted December 20, 2022 I obviously have no idea how much work is involved to remove the sheet metal, but it sure looks easier to work on that way! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,741 #12 Posted December 20, 2022 think 12 hp K301 pistons can be used. You really need to check and see what engine pars are available before you get carried away. Parts are hard to find. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacer 3,173 #13 Posted December 20, 2022 Yes, 301 pistons will fit, and gaskets, lectrics, fuel stuff are readily available ..... but the kicker can be the rods and crank (although I DID see a rod on the bay a few wks ago) and maybe you could get the crank ground ( nobody near me will/can turn the crank) with possibly more luck in getting a bore job. I have been lucky, of all the big twins I have had they were all within, or close enough to hone and re-ring. I even opened a 20 up and found it had had an - apparent - rebuild with very close .020 bore and .010 crank. On another 18 it was - again apparently - a replaced short block, was dead standard all across and very close fitting. But, on another 18, on re-assembly one of the rod bolts peeled the threads out --- was about 10 months til one popped up on the bay - and mind you, this was 3-4 yrs ago! 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Joker72 64 #14 Posted December 20, 2022 It ran strong before I started the breakdown. A little smoke on start up. Will definitely measure everything and do parts discovery before I break anything down too far. I appreciate you guys keeping me on course. You will probably save my tail somewhere along the way. Pacer: Where do you source your gasket sets and rings from? I see a complete rebuild kit on "I save tractors" for $549. Don't want to go that deep if it's not needed. Is it safe to just start uncoupling the motor/hydro/rear end? No alignment markings needed or hydrolic considerations? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Joker72 64 #15 Posted December 20, 2022 (edited) Steering break pads. Looks like some life left in them. Just gonna flip direction. PennDOT can kiss my tail. lol Edited December 20, 2022 by Joker72 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacer 3,173 #16 Posted December 20, 2022 1 hour ago, Joker72 said: gasket sets and rings from? Just go to the bay and put "gasket kit kohler 532" in search, same for rings. But, WOW, I hadnt looked at them on the bay in a while and there are some kits that are WAY high! But scrolling down I was seeing decent prices, you shud be able to get both for $75-100. These are import, but I've bought maybe 12-15 sets and never had a problem. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacer 3,173 #17 Posted December 20, 2022 2 hours ago, Joker72 said: start uncoupling the motor/hydro/rear end? Yeah, nothing critical about getting that done - you might either read a couple posts on the hydraulic or at least pay close attention on teardown, there is a bit peculiar O ring set-up on the plumbing. When I buy a "new" tractor one of the first things I do is get the engine out and go into it to determine its condition, whether it was running on purchase or not. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,741 #20 Posted December 21, 2022 I think that engine weighs allot 180 lbs. Getting it on the bench must have been some real work 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Joker72 64 #21 Posted December 21, 2022 PTO Clutch. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Joker72 64 #22 Posted December 21, 2022 (edited) @pfrederi there was a moment of 100% commitment, no return. My son helped and it was heavy.. Edited December 21, 2022 by Joker72 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Joker72 64 #23 Posted December 21, 2022 (edited) I'm wondering if somehow I can make this clutch material work with the existing PTO Clutch mechanism. Edited December 21, 2022 by Joker72 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Joker72 64 #24 Posted December 22, 2022 Measurement time. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Joker72 64 #25 Posted December 22, 2022 (edited) Sucks getting old. Edited December 22, 2022 by Joker72 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites