help removing bell crank from lift lever shaft.

[evaninsky 8]

I'm struggling removing the bellcrank (#19) from the lift lever shaft (#46).  The bellcrank needs to slide along the shaft, to reveal the key (#18) underneath. The diagram illustrates that this shaft should be coated with anti-rust compound, but the bellcrank seems rusted to the shaft regardless.  There's no room in there swing a hammer.   I'm thinkin about hitting it with a torch to see if that doesn't expand it a bit. 

any other thoughts ???

 

 

[Ed Kennell 38,049]

to the  

 

I assume you have removed the hairpin clips and soaked it with PB Blaster for a week.

 

Will a bearing splitter fit  and /or a couple bars.      Two of those bars have been used to remove some frozen pulleys from shafts.

 

[cod 120]

I hope Ed's suggestions work for you. If it's corroded badly, it's a chore. I tried heat, all kinds of penetrates and large hammer but it would NOT budge. Finally took as much of the sheet metal around it off and then took what was left to a shop with a large press. That worked. I strongly suggest that you slather it with some kind of anti seize gunk when you re-install it.

 

Good luck!

[953 nut 55,124]

10 hours ago, evaninsky said:

The diagram illustrates that this shaft should be coated with anti-rust compound, but the bellcrank seems rusted to the shaft regardless. 

I don't think the factory ever coated the bellcrank with anything but oil.  Unless the tractor never was exposed to the weather they will be rusted together. The only way that penetrating oil is likely to do any good would be to drill a series of holes in the top of the sleeve (19) and ad your favorite penetrating oil to each hole every day for a week or more so it can work along the shaft and thin hope for the best. What parts of the lift are you attempting to save? 

 

[WHX?? 48,803]

This procedure should be added to your rites of passage Richard. Hitch pins, hubs & steering wheels seldom beat me but this does every time. And I'm talking the older ones that don't have the key. Drill the holes, wait then a press. 

[Lane Ranger 10,950]

The early round  hoods were made in a much easier way to remove lift handle and bell crank.   Wheel Horse did not always improve upon an original design feature! 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,037]

One may be able to plug off the bottom of the holes item #14 go into with a piece of rubber and blocks to keep it tight. Then keep the holes filled with a good penetranting oil for as long as it takes.

[ri702bill 8,296]

On 12/5/2022 at 8:54 AM, Lane Ranger said:

The early round  hoods were made in a much easier way to remove lift handle and bell crank.

In 1963 and later.... the 1961 701 and the 1962 502, 552, and 702 had a very rust prone design that was difficult to remove - in 63 they changed to the 2 bolt block at the lift lever - BIG improvement.....

Edited December 6, 2022 by ri702bill

[WHX?? 48,803]

701 Bill ... looks like she gets painted on the hood stand.... afraid I was gonna bend or break something i couldn't fix. Odd there was a roll pin in there that sailed right out. 

[daveoman1966 3,745]

Some guys may not like this, but its worked for me in the past...a few times. 

(1) drop the bellcrank 19 down to its limit.

(2) Use a die grinder with cut-off wheel to slice across the full length of the bellcrank.

(3)Wedge a thick flat prybar in the crack and drip Some good penetrant into that crack.

(4) Use a BFH and a drift pin, drive the bell crank 46 out of the hoodstand.

(5) Before reinstall, either braze or electro weld the crack. 

(6) While still off, test fit 19 on the shaft 46 and, if not already done,

(7) drill out the hair-pin  holes of 19 and 46 to 1/4" and install two bigger hairpins 14.     

Edited December 5, 2022 by daveoman1966

[WHX?? 48,803]

I like that idea Dave if it's one of those gotta come out ones. 

[evaninsky 8]

apparently, I'm not alone on this one !  Thanks guys... so many great suggestions.  I'll remove as much sheet metal as I can and take it to a press first.  If that doesn't work I'll start drilling. 

Edited December 5, 2022 by evaninsky

[evaninsky 8]

apparently, I'm not alone on this one !  Thanks guys... so many great suggestions.  I'll remove as much sheet metal as I can and take it to a press first.  If that doesn't work I'll start drilling. 

[ri702bill 8,296]

I managed to get a 702 assembly apart by drilling a row of four #10-32 tap drill (.159) holes thru one wall of the bottom of the lever to allow penetrant to get in and migrate around the shaft - with the help of heat from the opposite site to "draw" it. Took two days but worked. Once apart, I tapped those holes for short setsctews. On reassembly, I used an M8 coiled pin instead of the original 5?16" one....

 

 

Edited December 5, 2022 by ri702bill

[doc724 925]

Wait... before you do all those drastic measures, go buy some Kroil.  You cannot find it at the usual places.  Either go directly to the manufacturer or an industrial supply company.  Why Kroil?  PB Blaster, and WD30 are nothing compared to Kroil.  Professional equipment maintenance personnel use only Kroil.   I have pulled several WH steering wheels, bell cranks, hubs and rear hitches by using Kroil and some heat.  You have to be patient.  Liberally spray the frozen joint once a day for 5 days.  Try to spray is down the keyway which goes all the way thru the bell crank.  It takes a while for the stuff to creep in.  Then on the 6th day, apply the heat.  Bell cranks are the most difficult because the only way to apply axial force to the bell crank is to yank the assembly until the bell crank hits the sheet metal.  Steering wheels are difficult because if you smack the back of the steering wheel, you may destroy the plastic.

[WHX?? 48,803]

5 hours ago, doc724 said:

buy some Kroil. 

Agreed doc ... on the jungle site

5 hours ago, doc724 said:

You have to be patient. 

Big problem... I have none... just ask the finger prints in newly painted parts... 

[Pullstart 62,812]

10 hours ago, WHX?? said:

Agreed doc ... on the jungle site

Big problem... I have none... just ask the finger prints in newly painted parts... 

 

We’re burnin’ daylight!  That field ain’t gonna plow itself!  

[WHX?? 48,803]

@Shynon We ain't burnin no gas standin here! 

[WHX?? 48,803]

Sorry Evan ... we have a tendency to get a little  here. Personnaly I never do but others?!?! Blame this one on Pullstart who is an instigator. 

Let us know how you come out on your efforts.