1975 C160 Automatic Restoration

[ebinmaine 67,553]

10 hours ago, Lee1977 said:

I though you said it was going to be painted off white. It's OK, you didn't say how far off. 

It's tough to get a good vision of the actual tint. 

 

It's the same Rust-Oleum 2x Navajo White we've been using on all our projects.  

 

It's a perfect match to the inside of original mid 60s wheels that haven't seen sunlight.  

 

[ebinmaine 67,553]

On 1/17/2023 at 4:16 PM, Handy Don said:

I agree heartily with two bolts on each side pinning angle iron to flange. The blue dot and directly above it would be my choices to avoid any close tolerances.

 

IMHO, that reinforced and braced F-plate is adequate. The cracking of the F-plate doesn’t come only from frontal forces--it is from the frame being torqued and flexing the F-plate. Torque is from side to side relative to the transaxle--i.e. from angled snow/dozer plowing or turns in deep soft soil when dirt plowing--or vertically from extremely heavy frame-mounted rear weight or from transporting a lifted heavy implement over rough ground, or banging a snow plow into an unyielding snowbank.

So, if extra strength is sought, adding angle braces along the sides resist only the vertical torque. To address lateral torque, you’d need to add diagonal bracing (e.g. from lower left of F-plate to right side of frame) and link the two braces where they cross each other in an X.

 

 

Here's what I came up with for now.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

May put the braces on later....

 

 

[ebinmaine 67,553]

Several years ago I got a plow frame side stabilizer from @WVHillbilly520H Jeff. 

It got set aside for a few ... I figured it has a place on this tractor when I decided last fall  to put the huge 60" snow plow on.  

 

 

There will be a tab mounted to the plow frame with a large hole to accept the downward piece.  

 

 

We got the engine block finished up for paint. Put it on the frame. I got the cylinder head bolted on and torqued correctly.  

Same for the flywheel.  

 

 

 

We also installed the 2 hoses from valve to lift cylinder. The 2 headed towards the transmission pump are in the valve.  

 

 

 

[ebinmaine 67,553]

Engine tins are on.  

 

 

And another excellent Wheelhorse mobile!

 

 

 

 

 

[oliver2-44 9,756]

6 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

 

 

@ebinmaine I noticed the white square on your flywheel, is that your timing mark location. If so you might want to put a fine black line in that larger white square to help you tweak your timing. 

[ebinmaine 67,553]

5 hours ago, oliver2-44 said:

@ebinmaine I noticed the white square on your flywheel, is that your timing mark location. If so you might want to put a fine black line in that larger white square to help you tweak your timing. 

 

Excellent idea but I don't even own a timing light. 

 

On this flywheel there were no actual Letter marks as I've seen on others.  

The only mark of any kind is a diamond pattern of tiny punched dots where that white square is.  

 

I set the points .018 or so which is the gap several of our other engines run including my other K341. 

 

We'll tune by ear from there.  

 

 

[ebinmaine 67,553]

No time for spinning wrenches but I did order a pile n a half of fasteners for this tractor and future projects. 

 

Also picked up this here piece of PVC pipe and coupler, along with a nice new OE Kohler seal.  

I'll make a seal driver with em.  

 

 

[ebinmaine 67,553]

I got to playing around in the JB Weld and got the transmission Tow Valve new and improved fastener system installed.  

 

 

 

We've been cleaning the transmission fluid pump occasionally for a few days. 

Today The Paint Department has been coating it.  

I went with black because the maroon yuckyness was very tough to remove and.... stained the aluminum. 

Awesome.  ...... 

  

 

Oh well.  

 

 

 

[ebinmaine 67,553]

Getting a little closer every day...

 

Transmission fluid pump is ready for installation after the paint dries overnight. 

 

 

Seat bracket base/toolbox on. 

 

 

Carb, coil, and some linkages in place.  

 

 

 

Ya know what's NOT in place?

This &+@/$$ clip. 

It's ok because I just robbed one from another K341.  

 

It'll appear. Someday.  😃

[953 nut 55,281]

On 1/28/2023 at 6:58 PM, ebinmaine said:

engine scraped off and cleaned up so she could paint it.

I have always heard that the paint and the object to be painted had to be 5 degrees ow warmer,     Here you are out in the fringed snow painting.

[ebinmaine 67,553]

@953 nut

 

Trina has a particular method for painting in cold weather.

 

All of the prep and cleaning is of course done indoors in the warmth.

 

The part to be painted is either hung on a coat hanger or set on a cart that can roll in and out.

Get the parts ready. Shake the can of paint. Take both outside and do the actual painting. Bring the paint and part back indoors ASAP.

Hang it up on our standard issue Wheel Horse mobile as you've seen many times.

 

We've never had a cold temperature related paint issue until it gets down around 15° or 20°.

The parts and paint are only outside literally enough to do the actual spraying and then come right back into the warm air.

She's sprayed many MANY parts in temperatures above 25° and never had an issue.

 

 

[953 nut 55,281]

2 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

parts and paint are only outside literally enough to do the actual spraying and then come right back into the warm air

I figured that was what you were doing. I do sort of the same in my shop on cold days, get a fire going in the wood stove in the office to warm the parts and rattle can. Once I know they are warm enough take them out to the shop and make em purdy then bring them back into the office.

[ebinmaine 67,553]

Fair amount done today.  

🙂

 

Disassembled the dash and components. 

Cleaned up the cables so all the maroon paint is off em. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The fender pan has a crack in the usual place. Not something I'm equipped to deal with at this point so I'll sandwich it between the square tubing that holds the seat and these. The discs are around 2.5" OD.  Cutouts from a friend's fab shop.  I drilled the ⅜ holes close to the centers.  

 

 

 

Exhaust pipe and muffler were wire brushed sanded and painted. 

 

 

 

 

We got the transmission fluid pump installed.  

Hoses connected.  Repaired tow valve in as well. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Meeha Mirror helps with the stove.  

 

 

 

One of the many things I need to modify repair fix is an exhaust leak.  

The split at the muffler......

 

 

 

....was seeping with the clamp that was used. 

I don't want to crush the muffler flange so I'll use a band clamp.  

 

 

 

 

 

[Horse Newbie 7,071]

1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

The split at the muffler

I thought that split was supposed to be there…

[ebinmaine 67,553]

2 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

I thought that split was supposed to be there…

Yessir it is. 

The muffler is just a tad bit bigger than the pipe and that split can't be quiiiiiite closed. 

 

Close. 

But not quite...

 

 

 

[ebinmaine 67,553]

Here's a good color comparison for you folks on the Apple Red Gloss vs the hitch which is the old stock Wheelhorse red.  

@WHX??

 

 

[ebinmaine 67,553]

Most of another great day spent wrenchin'. 

 

 

Trina's special project for today was to find, create, manufacture, produce, the motion control lever extension out of the bottom of a previously whittled stick.

She found a piece of Striped Maple with a good big beefy feel to it. Trimmed the bottom so it was at the right angle. I decided the length that I wanted. She cut and trimmed it then put it in the drill press and made a 7/16" x 3" deep hole to insert the lever. Sanded the corners and coated it with polyurethane spray.

A bit odd for most? Yes. 

Fits my Big hand and personality?

Definitely.   

 

 

 

 

 

 

I made up my Engine crankshaft seal installer.

 

Installed:

Engine crankshaft seal.

Engine drive pulley.

Engine grass screen flattened and installed with 4 new screws. 

 

 

 

Exhaust old stub pipe removed with giant huge wicked incredible leverage bar on large pipe wrench and big heavy bear. Small Trina assisting.

Correct exhaust stub pipe installed.

 

 

 

ALL NEW grade 8 fasteners are used whenever possible.  

 

Trina did:

Belt idler pulley removed and brake lever with linkage and spring installed.

Drive belt.

Air cleaner base. 

Crossbar that holds steps and seat pan latch.

Belt guard. 

Both side steps.

Rear tail light.

 

 

 

 

 

 

We put a washer/spacer on brake pedal connection to shift linkage. Also replaced brake pedal bushings.

 

 

I found a near NOS trailer hitch in my stock. Thanks to @Mows4three  Dave for that.  

Trina cleaned, sanded, painted it.

 

 

 

 

Lift valve lever removed, cleaned, painted black, reinstalled in reverse for more user friendly location.

 

 

 

Volt gauge/voltage regulator installed.

Engine oil dumped in.

2 qts Kinetix HD30. 

 

 

Coiled up choke and throttle cables. 

Soaking them with Liquid Wrench Penetrating Oil. They were working fine but figured I'd give them a good lubing to make @peter lena Greasy Pete happy.  😃

 

 

 

 

I brought 2 five gallon pails 🪣of Rimguard Tire Filling Fluid down from the new shop building to the basement workshop. 

Figure around 55 lbs per pail. 

Walked about 100, 120 ft carrying them both.  

THAT... Was a workout.  

🏋️🏋️🏋️🏋️

@Pullstart

 

 

 

[Moparfanforever 849]

You guy's are knocking the build out of the park !!!

I like your control handle !!

 

[ebinmaine 67,553]

4 minutes ago, Moparfanforever said:

You guy's are knocking the build out of the park !!!

I like your control handle !!

 

Hahahaha.  

Thanks!!!

 

 

[NA73 70]

gotta say, everything is looking good.  I may have missed it, is the engine / 'cylinder head' paint good for 'high heat' ?

[ebinmaine 67,553]

6 hours ago, NA73 said:

gotta say, everything is looking good.  I may have missed it, is the engine / 'cylinder head' paint good for 'high heat' ?

Thanks!

 

The exhaust pipe and muffler are done with a BBQ rated paint good for 1200⁰. 

I use that particular one because I like the nice bright  silver tone it has. There are  others that rate higher.  

 

The cylinder head is likely a BBQ rated flat or satin black. I didn't see what she used.  

 

Engine block is high heat around the cooling fins and exhaust outlet ONLY. The rest is standard 2X paint. Trina blends the high heat off white with the 2X. 

I've only had one discolor there around the pipe and I figured out later that the carb was running lean for a few minutes at initial start-up.  

 

[peter lena 8,632]

@ebinmaine  nice going on that !  personally like a, 18 / 24 " pipe wrench  to move anything , your ideas / changes are getting into my  ,  you can,t do that  response / reply ,  try welding a 6" extension on a 12/ 14 "  pipe wrench  for a smaller jaw fit in tight spots , yet having a big wrench  leverage pull.  keep adding those ideas as you go , might even dare to try a spring pull on those cable / lever ends ! pete

[peter lena 8,632]

@ebinmaine   like this , bigger picture helps clear up confusion , also shoes yellow electrical lug  going to headlight grounding . get some perforated  trim pieces , to use in your rectifier mounting , there is your spring pull to assist cable action . remember the light spring pull , CLOSES THE CABLE ACTION , super lube oil . if nothing else , worth a try . have tis on my 3 horses it works , pete   

 

[Handy Don 12,233]

16 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

Walk softly, but DRIVE with a big stick! 

[SylvanLakeWH 25,594]

13 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

Walk softly, but DRIVE with a big stick! 

 

I'm thinking that may be more of a BBT motivational tool for those days when @ebinmaine feels like taking pictures instead of gettin' er done... 

 

 

Ya know... daily inspiration...