1975 C160 Automatic Restoration

[953 nut 55,283]

2 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

A note to folks on the O rings at the plugs on the hydro pump.

Here is a source for the "O" Rings. Surplus Center also has a great selection of fitting adapters and hoses.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Adapters-Fittings/SAE-O-rings/

[gt14rider 764]

Been working on a piston to piston parts list. 

I'm not computer friendly. 

[ebinmaine 67,558]

32 minutes ago, gt14rider said:

parts list.

This is EXCELLENT.  

Thank you! 

[gt14rider 764]

Found all most all parts, bearings, springs, o rings, snap rings, gaskets, seals,  some hard parts. Supersede, superseded, have supplier and some pricing (subject to change). Still have some work to do, but I'll get there.

[ebinmaine 67,558]

Well as you know I've been experimenting with trying to cut keyway grooves in the axles. 

I made some interesting headway and I learned some things. 

IIFF I was a better woodworker with much more precise tools I believe it could be done using a pair of boards correctly cut and a grinder that could be clamped in place.  

 

Because I am NOT a woodworker by a long shot and/or have the right tools to make a very good jig I've decided to scrap the plan for now.   

 

So....

I disassembled an 8 speed that will be rebuilt for the backhoe knowing it had good axles.  

 

 

 

I'll put the good axles in the Hydro open diff because the Hydro diff is rust free. 

 

 

No Limited Slip Differential for this machine...

But that's ok because the 8 speed 8 pinion is VERY stout.  

 

In other news the Local Restoration Department has been cleaning up and painting the flywheel.  

 

 

What should the timing marks look like?

 

[ebinmaine 67,558]

Got the differential and axles all buttoned up and properly torqued.  

 

 

Started cleaning the "wide side" of the transmission case so we can get that back together tomorrow.  

 

[953 nut 55,283]

6 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

What should the timing marks look like?

The timing marks are stamped on the slender flat portion of the flywheel between the ring gear and the back of the flywheel. The stampings are sometimes no too good but they should be near the same location as the keyway if memory serves me right. since it has been painted a light sanding will probably make them visible.

[ebinmaine 67,558]

5 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

The timing marks are stamped on the slender flat portion of the flywheel between the ring gear and the back of the flywheel. The stampings are sometimes no too good but they should be near the same location as the keyway if memory serves me right. since it has been painted a light sanding will probably make them visible.

Trina found a series of dots that were on it. 

Basically like a "9" dice mark. 

 

 

[ebinmaine 67,558]

I got quite a fair amount done today. Spent late morning until well after 7 PM putterin' around the basement workshop.  

A little cleaning. 

A little organizing.  

Did some project assessment and readjusted the to-do list.  

 

 

The transmission is all bolted together.   

 

 

 

 

 

 

These are the rear bracket locking levers. Both were bent the same direction so it's likely some PO got a foreign object bashed around back there.  

The Paint Department cleaned em up and I straightened them out beat we could with hammah and vise/anvil.  

 

 

 

Big project for today was using this drawing and the bare frame for lineup to make these rear frame braces.  

 

I happened to have about 18" of 1/8" x 2" angle here. Certainly need more...

@OldWorkHorse maybe you can get some?

 

 

Notched and holes marked.  

 

 

Here they are in mock up.  I'll leave the excess sticking out the bottom on the sides because I may very well run a piece of strap steel forward for more strength.  

 

 

 

 

[Lee1977 6,663]

Now run 1 1/2" x 1/4" up the inside side of the frame, there a 3/8" hole about an inch or so back from the steering block. It runs at the same angle as the belt guard.

[ebinmaine 67,558]

5 minutes ago, Lee1977 said:

Now run 1 1/2" x 1/4" up the inside side of the frame, there a 3/8" hole about an inch or so back from the steering block. It runs at the same angle as the belt guard.

 

Yeah that's about what I was figuring on.

Maybe cut an angle that matches the frame at the back?

That way the frame won't be conflicting with the brace?

 

Far as I know this is only going to be a plow Horse for now... Anything to watch for as far as interference?

 

 

[oliver2-44 9,756]

EB with the rocks in your neck of the woods a “Plow Horse” tranny bracket could have a rough life!

[ebinmaine 67,558]

1 minute ago, oliver2-44 said:

EB with the rocks in your neck of the woods a “Plow Horse” tranny bracket could have a rough life!

Oh! Snow plow! Snow plow! No ground digging on this one.

 

 

 

Sometimes I forget the different phrases mean different things in different parts of the country... 

[Lee1977 6,663]

The deck leveling rod on the back may rub it, a small bend in the deck mount takes care of that. You don't used a deck so nothing to worry about. 

I have those braces on all my Wheel Horses.

The transmission mount could have a rough life without the braces.

Edited January 16, 2023 by Lee1977

[ebinmaine 67,558]

The Paint Department has been busy at home enjoying her holiday.   

 

 

 

Pulley ready for paint when the snow stops

 

Hood lock rod in

 

Plow bracket levers

 

Hitch pin and cable tube

 

 

I'm REALLY liking the off white on this hydro valve... 

 

 

 

[ebinmaine 67,558]

This evening I got the transmission all set to hang on the frame next time we're in the shop. 

 

I put the hubs on the transmission and held the "key side" set screw tight while I marked the place of the "shaft side" set screw by running it in several times to bite the axle. 

I then removed the hub and ground a flat in the axle for the set screw to set at on in ...

 

 

 

Ran a chase down through the wheel stud holes to clean the paint etc out of the threads.  

Installed the 10 lug bolts. 

7/16"-20 x 1-1/2" I think...?

 

Finished putting in the 4 set screws. All tightened up.  

 

 

Ready!! 

 

 

 

 

Pulley has its white clothes on.  

 

 

Seat pan forward support bracket in place.  

 

 

 

Hood bottom hinges on. 

 

 

We put the frame reinforcements in that I made up yesterday afternoon.  All puurty red painted.  

 

 

Trina worked more at cleaning up the transmission pump.  

Looks like a CR 7479 seal. (??)

 

 

 

 

 

[ebinmaine 67,558]

On 1/13/2023 at 11:07 AM, gt14rider said:

Found all most all parts, bearings, springs, o rings, snap rings, gaskets, seals,  some hard parts. Supersede, superseded, have supplier and some pricing (subject to change). Still have some work to do, but I'll get there.

 

 

 

Any info on the seal I've surrounded below.  

Fairly sure it reads CR 7479?

 

 

 

 

[gt14rider 764]

[ebinmaine 67,558]

14 hours ago, gt14rider said:

 

Thanks for posting this.

 

FYI for future information.

Mine has a CR 7479 in it now.

One of my regular parts stores is a National seal and bearing dealer so Federal Mogul of course.

He tells me that all of the 7474, 7475, 7479, will cross reference directly or indirectly to the above listed National 480821  number as being a usable replacement.

It's a special order through Carquest but I was able to find it on flea Bay with good availability.

 

[8ntruck 7,014]

Did you weld the frame braces to the frame rails, or are the braces only a reinforcement for the transmission mount plate?

[ebinmaine 67,558]

1 minute ago, 8ntruck said:

Did you weld the frame braces to the frame rails, or are the braces only a reinforcement for the transmission mount plate?

I'll be bolting braces on sometime in the next few weeks.

 

I'm also considering a separate brace going from the plow frame bracket on the axle tube to a forward location. Seems to me that would take some of the strain off the bolts that go into the transmission.

I haven't put any design thought to that yet.

[Handy Don 12,233]

18 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

This looks good. Some have added an angle brace from the bottom of the angle iron up to the frame 9-12 inches foward of the F-plate. I chose, as have others, to not extend the frame downward in that area to avoid potential conflicts with mid-mount implements. Instead, I tightly bolted the side flanges of the frame to the side flanges of the angle about 1-½” from the bottom. This adds a “triangle” of strength linking the frame to the transaxle in addition to your existing reinforcement of the F-plate itself.

Edited January 17, 2023 by Handy Don

[Handy Don 12,233]

30 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

I'll be bolting braces on sometime in the next few weeks.

 

I'm also considering a separate brace going from the plow frame bracket on the axle tube to a forward location. Seems to me that would take some of the strain off the bolts that go into the transmission.

Essentially the elements of a loader subframe. Be aware this can reduce ground clearance.

Edited January 17, 2023 by Handy Don

[ebinmaine 67,558]

29 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

Instead, I tightly bolted the side flanges of the frame to the side flanges of the angle about 1-½” from the bottom. This adds a “triangle” of strength linking the frame to the transaxle in addition to your existing reinforcement of the F-plate itself.

My intention is to bolt it to the side plate as well. Got sidetracked and then lost time so I forgot to drill the holes.

I was originally going to use the lowest hole circled in yellow but it's too close to the inside of the angle iron after being drilled. It's likely I'll take the time to grind half of the head off from a half inch bolt and put it in there.

Another option was to drill a hole where the blue dot is. Then another one closer to the top. Four bolts on each piece, total.

 

27 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

Essentially the elements of a loader subframe. Be aware this can reduce ground clearance.

Excellent point and advice and something to watch out for.

I don't intend to put this particular tractor in the woods or on rough ground much, if ever at all. But I don't want to go any lower with ground clearance than is already there.

Like I stated above I haven't really put a lot of design thought into the braces yet but I would fully intend to run whatever they turn out to be, above the existing bracketry.

 

 

Looking at the diagram above...

My intention is to put a hole somewhere in the neighborhood of the white dot.

I'll run a brace from there diagonally up to a point on the frame that won't interfere with the snow dirt dozer plow frame and try to be conscious of the possibility of a mid-mount grader being on this machine.

I may even run that brace right to one of the bolts that holds the mid mount tachomatic. 

I'm not sure if that will be too long or not..... 

 

[Handy Don 12,233]

56 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

My intention is to bolt it to the side plate as well. Got sidetracked and then lost time so I forgot to drill the holes.

I was originally going to use the lowest hole circled in yellow but it's too close to the inside of the angle iron after being drilled. It's likely I'll take the time to grind half of the head off from a half inch bolt and put it in there.

Another option was to drill a hole where the blue dot is. Then another one closer to the top. Four bolts on each piece, total.

 

Excellent point and advice and something to watch out for.

I don't intend to put this particular tractor in the woods or on rough ground much, if ever at all. But I don't want to go any lower with ground clearance than is already there.

Like I stated above I haven't really put a lot of design thought into the braces yet but I would fully intend to run whatever they turn out to be, above the existing bracketry.

 

 

Looking at the diagram above...

My intention is to put a hole somewhere in the neighborhood of the white dot.

I'll run a brace from there diagonally up to a point on the frame that won't interfere with the snow dirt dozer plow frame and try to be conscious of the possibility of a mid-mount grader being on this machine.

I may even run that brace right to one of the bolts that holds the mid mount tachomatic. 

I'm not sure if that will be too long or not..... 

 

I agree heartily with two bolts on each side pinning angle iron to flange. The blue dot and directly above it would be my choices to avoid any close tolerances.

 

IMHO, that reinforced and braced F-plate is adequate. The cracking of the F-plate doesn’t come only from frontal forces--it is from the frame being torqued and flexing the F-plate. Torque is from side to side relative to the transaxle--i.e. from angled snow/dozer plowing or turns in deep soft soil when dirt plowing--or vertically from extremely heavy frame-mounted rear weight or from transporting a lifted heavy implement over rough ground, or banging a snow plow into an unyielding snowbank.

So, if extra strength is sought, adding angle braces along the sides resist only the vertical torque. To address lateral torque, you’d need to add diagonal bracing (e.g. from lower left of F-plate to right side of frame) and link the two braces where they cross each other in an X.