Jump to content
CCW

Brake shaft seal

Recommended Posts

CCW

Over the past 24 hours I have read numerous threads about removing the seals from the brake shaft and axles.  Now I have a good idea of what needs to be done.  Only one question.  Does the transmission fluid need to be drained prior to replacing the seal of my 312-8 prior to removing the leaky seal?  If I had to go just my gut i would say yes.

 

ccw post

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
rjg854

:popcorn:haven't had to that on an automatic yet, so I can't offer any advice, but a good question.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine
4 minutes ago, CCW said:

Over the past 24 hours I have read numerous threads about removing the seals from the brake shaft and axles.  Now I have a good idea of what needs to be done.  Only one question.  Does the transmission fluid need to be drained prior to replacing the seal of my 312-8 prior to removing the leaky seal?  If I had to go just my gut i would say yes.

 

ccw post

 

I'd drain it, yes. 

 

If it has been replaced in the last couple years AND it shows NO signs of water I'd also put it right back in.  

 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ri702bill

If you jack up the tractor and tip it slightly so that the brake shaft is facing up a tad, no issue.Remove the drum and the key, determine if the seal is flush with the casting or inset a bit - remove the seal. CLEAN the shaft and use a piece of tape lengthwise to close the keyseat - this allows the seal to go over the sharp edges of the keyseat without damage. Apply light lube to the taped shaft and start the seal with a twisting motion. Push it inward beyond the tape and stop. Remove the tape, clean the inner face of the drum, and use it without the key to seat the new seal - if the old one was flush, you are good - if it was inset a bit, use a piece of PVC pipe to tap it in GENTLY. Remove the drum, install the Woodruff key and the drum with its retainer.

Done several this way - no issues.

 

@ebinmaine brings up a good point - if the fluid looks dirty or milky, drain it first. You need to elevate the front of the tractor about a foot or so to drain the Unidrive completely...

Bill

Edited by ri702bill
  • Excellent 2
  • Thanks 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
rmaynard

Good advice all. No one has mentioned it, but I'd jack up the brake side and remove the tire. Lots more room to maneuver.

  • Like 1
  • Excellent 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ri702bill
12 minutes ago, rmaynard said:

but I'd jack up the brake side and remove the tire

Duh !! I thought that went without saying - but..... !!

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
rmaynard
2 hours ago, ri702bill said:

Duh !! I thought that went without saying - but..... !!

To us old pros it does. However, it can be done, and I did it when I was a young novice. :angry-banghead: I did the entire job of removing and replacing a brake shaft seal with the tire on and said "never again".

  • Like 2
  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...