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Sparky

Lift lever drops??

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Sparky

  So on my 308 when you yank the lift lever back it locks in and all is good…or so it seems…then a few seconds later or while going over a bump it just suddenly releases and drops the plow. 
  What are the common causes of this? Never had one do this before. 
 

3E768D43-3E6E-4FFB-BE7C-81012D32B6A3.jpeg

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Jeff-C175

I've been having the same issue with my C-125.  I can't seem to determine why it doesn't fully lock in as it should.  I think from what I can see that the detent slot and perhaps the rod are both worn and 'rounded over' a bit.  When I get a round tuit I plan to tear into it and see if I can improve it.  It holds most of the time... I've gotten into the habit of pulling back the handle and wiggling it and that seems to help some.

 

image.png.8cbad4dcd93a01d96550f25fe6cdc23f.png

 

From what I can see on mine, the 'nub' on this plate seems to be worn down quite a bit.  I'm wondering if there might be some play in the mounting bolts for that plate that would allow some adjustment and let the end of the rod drop deeper into the detent.

 

image.png.7772df6d2ee85e568caaf5bdff16fe16.png

 

Edited by Jeff-C175
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nylyon

This has happened to me when the chain adjustment was too tight, take a turn or 2 off the chain and see if that helps?

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bds1984

I had the same happen on a 312-8. Turns out that the C-clip and bushing were missing from the rock shaft, allowing it to move enough that the up position would drop. Everything else was just fine.

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Jeff-C175
Just now, nylyon said:

This has happened to me when the chain adjustment was too tight, take a turn or 2 off the chain and see if that helps?

 

I actually tried that myself.  It did help a little, but the rod still pops out of the detent from time to time.

 

Probably a combination of worn parts.

 

 

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Pullstart
9 minutes ago, nylyon said:

This has happened to me when the chain adjustment was too tight, take a turn or 2 off the chain and see if that helps?


My thoughts as well.  @Sparky do you have a solid lift link, or a chain?

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Sparky
10 minutes ago, Pullstart said:


My thoughts as well.  @Sparky do you have a solid lift link, or a chain?

Chain. 
  When I lift the plow the plow frame isn’t hitting the front axle. 

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squonk

Check the spring inside the lift arm. It's the spring that keeps the thing in the slot

 

 

Part # 3624 in your program! 

 

https://www.partstree.com/models/21-08k802-308-8-toro-lawn-tractor-1986/manual-lift-linkage-17/

Edited by squonk
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Sparky
40 minutes ago, squonk said:

Check the spring inside the lift arm. It's the spring that keeps the thing in the slot

 

 

Part # 3624 in your program! 

 

https://www.partstree.com/models/21-08k802-308-8-toro-lawn-tractor-1986/manual-lift-linkage-17/

How hard is that to swap out?? 

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squonk

Never done it but I've heard of them failing and the lock rod doesn't stay up 

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daveoman1966

Slip off the plastic grip handle and squirt in some 90w gear lube...or any oil for that matter.  No doubt, there is some rust in there that precludes mechanism from workng right.  .    

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peter lena

@daveoman1966  that entire  set up is often neglected ,(  frequently refer to  make the rust run out ), agree with you on the lubrication , another vital part of that is the cross chassis width end bushings  related linkage points . every time I see a reference to the belt drive idler pulley , the end shaft  bushing area for that lift arm is right there , bone dry . regularly , touch up my movement spots ,  pete 

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SylvanLakeWH

Same issue... lubed the innards up and spring worked like a charm...

 

:twocents-twocents:

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Sparky
5 hours ago, squonk said:

Check the spring inside the lift arm. It's the spring that keeps the thing in the slot

 

 

Part # 3624 in your program! 

 

https://www.partstree.com/models/21-08k802-308-8-toro-lawn-tractor-1986/manual-lift-linkage-17/

Ok…I sliced off the plastic grip on a couple junker parts machines to try to learn about the spring and its replacement. 
  Looking at that diagram you linked it seems like it would be right there under the grip. Sliced off two grips and neither had a spring that I could see.

  I managed to pry up that inner sleeve looking thing but wasn’t able to actually get one out of the handles tube. 
 

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DE450331-67ED-45C2-839C-40228ACF533A.jpeg

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SylvanLakeWH

Never had one apart but i just oiled the crap out of it and worked it repeatedly and it freed up and worked as it should. I would also play with the adjuster knob and maybe go up or down a link on the chain...? Might be in the adjustment...

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nylyon

Put a new plow on the new 416-8 today and same thing happened.  1½  turn on the Chan and all good, and no the frame of the plow was not hitting the axle either.

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peter lena

@SylvanLakeWH  anything you oil the crap out of is ok with me , mind if I  use that phrase ?  kinda like grease the crap out of it  , make the rust run out ,  pete

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Snoopy11
2 minutes ago, peter lena said:

grease the crap out of it

 

That's my kind of language... :P

 

Don

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Retired Wrencher

Wow good post never thought to lube them. Will do this today.

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peter lena

@Retired Wrencher  imagine  most guys think  I  bathe my horses in lubricant , not exactly , but pretty close . if its rusty / neglected , chances are it does not work  / survive like it could . thats another reason I  suggest , using lubricant to use on your horse paint finishes , no rust / rot , save patina , very simple . just freeing up a dry rusty area , makes it start to move , usually give it a grease / lubricant transfusion . that aerosol penetrating oil first , makes it move and rust run out , then aerosol red grease , will retain that movement , pete

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Sparky

Question: Middle hole correct?? 
 

image.jpg

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nylyon

You can do the top as well for added lift page 8

 

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Sparky

  So I tried all three lift holes with no change. Backed off on the eyebolt chain thingy, it might have been a bit better after that. 
  It just seems that everything is sloppy and worn out (dang thing isn’t really all that old being a 1987 :eusa-think: ). I ended up adding thin washers under this piece (see picture) and saw improvement. Took it apart and added a thicker washer and it improved even more. Still drops but not as much. 
 

A4CE5BCD-5046-4D40-A1B7-1EAA057D2AE1.jpeg

 

image.jpg

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squonk
10 minutes ago, Sparky said:

 
  It just seems that everything is sloppy and worn out (dang thing isn’t really all that old being a 1987 :eusa-think: ).
 

 

 

 

Exact reason I prefer pre-1980 tractors. Don't know why but I have run into crappy lift components on the 80 and up models more than once and never have on the older units. I find the clips bent, Eye bolts bent and general rust and rot. Plus that lift arm hole is tougher to get to.

 

image.jpg

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Jeff-C175
31 minutes ago, Sparky said:

added

 

Leads me to believe that detent is rounded over.  Can you see where the rod drops into the detent?

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