Tearing into the C-160 Transmission.

[ebinmaine 67,562]

7 hours ago, GAJoe said:

Those smaller snap rings did stretch a bit to get them over the splines and they can be rotated in the groove but they don't have the 1/16' up and down movement. It the best that I can do. They are getting maximum contact with the splines.

 

 

Looks good there Joe. I'd run with that.  

[Horse Newbie 7,071]

10 hours ago, GAJoe said:

I just have to say that the Evapo-Rust performed excellent for removing the rust. Look at the before and after with no elbow grease what-so-ever.

 

  

Looks like it also removed the scoring on the axle, or is that a new axle ?

[GAJoe 844]

42 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

Looks like it also removed the scoring on the axle, or is that a new axle ?

New axle

 

[GAJoe 844]

Got the tranny back together!

WHAT SHOULD THE BOLTS BE TORQUED TO? I know that I have seen or heard that number some where; just cant remember. I should have writter it down.

And got the seals in except for the input shaft seal. Can anyone recommend a common pipe, cylinder, or something to set it?

Edited December 17, 2022 by GAJoe
ask a question

[ebinmaine 67,562]

20 hours ago, GAJoe said:

got the seals in except for the input shaft seal. Can anyone recommend a common pipe, cylinder, or something to set it?

 

For the seals to be set on a Wheelhorse transmission you can actually use the item that sets in front of them to drive them because the seals set flush to the outside of the transmission case. 

 

The input seal can be started carefully like the others by hand then driven into place by using the input drive pulley as the seal driver.   

 

 

Torque specs on that are the industry standard. 

 

3/8 course thread grade 5. 

Likely around 22 to 25 lb ft.  I always go on the tight side of that.  

 

 

Edited December 18, 2022 by ebinmaine
Correct autocorrect

[rick 233]

It might be possible to use the input pulley sliding on the shaft to tap the seal in.  I've never done that seal though so it's just a guess.

[rick 233]

Go beat, lol

 

[GAJoe 844]

Well I messed the input seal up; gonna order a couple more. But I thought I'd get new belts in the same order. Is there a guide to selecting belts?

I found the number "7473"  on the original drive belt and will get the same.

What part # is the belt that goes through the Mule to power the deck? It was dry rotted and I wound up cutting it off. It was right at 100" long if that helps.

 Also my 36" mowing deck needs the drive belt replaced; part #?

[ebinmaine 67,562]

2 minutes ago, GAJoe said:

Well I messed the input seal up; gonna order a couple more. But I thought I'd get new belts in the same order. Is there a guide to selecting belts?

I found the number "7473"  on the original drive belt and will get the same.

What part # is the belt that goes through the Mule to power the deck? It was dry rotted and I wound up cutting it off. It was right at 100" long if that helps.

 Also my 36" mowing deck needs the drive belt replaced; part #?

I've gotten into the habit of ordering an extra of most every seal I change. 

If the first one goes in right I keep the spare in stock for the next tractor need.  

 

 

For the drive belt... Seriously... Save yourself a BUNCH of time and get a Wheelhorse brand belt. 

 

The length needs to be just right along with the angle. 

 

Wheelhorse Parts and More has them along with several other sources. 

 

 

[GAJoe 844]

18 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

I've gotten into the habit of ordering an extra of most every seal I change. 

If the first one goes in right I keep the spare in stock for the next tractor need.  

 

 

For the drive belt... Seriously... Save yourself a BUNCH of time and get a Wheelhorse brand belt. 

 

The length needs to be just right along with the angle. 

 

Wheelhorse Parts and More has them along with several other sources. 

 

 

I did and messed both up; ordering 2 again.

I was planning on getting the belts from them also. Can they help pick the belt sizes?

 

Edited December 18, 2022 by GAJoe

[ebinmaine 67,562]

1 hour ago, GAJoe said:

I did and messed both up; ordering 2 again.

I was planning on getting the belts from them also. Can they help pick the belt sizes?

 

Remind me of the tractor model number? 

[Horse Newbie 7,071]

2 hours ago, GAJoe said:

Well I messed the input seal up

I messed up 2 before I got one in… someone on here recommended installing it backwards, so I did.

The problem I had was the edge of the metal part of the seal would catch on the transmission case.

Mine is working fine backwards and besides, the oil level barely gets that high anyways…

[GAJoe 844]

5 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

Remind me of the tractor model number? 

a C-160 M# 1-0380

The 36" deck that I found came from a B-80 and the tag has been painted over. I can cut and measure that belt if that's the easiest way to get the size.

Edited December 18, 2022 by GAJoe
added info

[ebinmaine 67,562]

The tractor drive belt is the 7473. 

 

The others someone else will be along to help out. 

[953 nut 55,284]

20 hours ago, GAJoe said:

WHAT SHOULD THE BOLTS BE TORQUED TO?

30 foot pounds, that goes for the differential bolts to.

9 hours ago, GAJoe said:

Is there a guide to selecting belts?

 

[ebinmaine 67,562]

Hey Joe when you get a chance toss a bit of neversieze in that hitch pin hole and the hubs too.  

 

 

 

 

[GAJoe 844]

41 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Hey Joe when you get a chance toss a bit of neversieze in that hitch pin hole and the hubs too.  

 

 

 

 

I did the hubs last night and got the new set screws and nuts torqued down. Will get the hitch pin when I put it in.

[ebinmaine 67,562]

32 minutes ago, GAJoe said:

set screws and nuts torqued down

Watch them set screws like a hawk. 

I've gotten into the habit of a particular sequence on the hub set screws.   Neat trick I learned awhile ago. 

 

Tighten to spec. 

Loosen. 

Using a WRENCH... 

Repeat 2 or 3 times.  

If ya use a wrench you can see the "clock position" of the wrench move a tad bit further each time.  The screw is biting in a little.  

 

We work our Horses on rough ground and there's a fair amount of weight and torque being changed about side to side.  

I've found it'll set in and move around on its own and loosen up so it saves a step later.  

[Horse Newbie 7,071]

11 hours ago, GAJoe said:

I can cut and measure that belt if that's the easiest way to get the size

You DONT HAVE to cut it…

make a mark on it with a Sharpie… put the marked area of the belt on the floor…

make a mark on the floor. Roll the belt on the floor until the spot you marked comes back around. Make another mark on the floor… now measure the distance between the marks with a tape measure…Walla !

 

Or… you could just start the mark at zero, then roll the belt beside a tape measure. See how many inches it says when you reach the mark again…

Edited December 18, 2022 by Horse Newbie

[kpinnc 12,078]

15 hours ago, GAJoe said:

Will get the hitch pin when I put it in.

 

Just an opinion- but I'd cram a wire brush through the the hitch pin hole and clean it as well as you can. Agreed on some type of anti-sieze or similar. If you ever have to remove it again, you'll be glad you did...

[GAJoe 844]

The tranny is all back together with hubs painted as close as I could find. It'll look better to me when that glossy paint gets dull.

Now what oil should I use down here in North GA? The lowest temps that we see are in the teens. I got Super Tech 80W-90 from someones recommendation but I see that the manual calls for SAE 90-140.

What motor oil should I use in the Kohler K341S while we're at it?

Edited December 20, 2022 by GAJoe

[ebinmaine 67,562]

14 minutes ago, GAJoe said:

Now what oil should I use down here in North GA? The lowest temps that we see are in the teens. I got Super Tech 80W-90 from someones recommendation but I see that the manual calls for SAE 90-140.

What motor oil should I use in the Kohler K341S while we're at it?

 

These transmissions will use pretty much anything close to 80w. 90w. 80w 140. Whatever is cheap and convenient. For that matter I understand straight 40 engine oil was on e on the menu for the transmission.  

 

As to your engine...

HD 30 with detergent per the Kohler manual.  

Brand is a personal preference.  

Most important?

Change it. 

 

[GAJoe 844]

On 12/17/2022 at 11:49 PM, Horse Newbie said:

I messed up 2 before I got one in… someone on here recommended installing it backwards, so I did.

The problem I had was the edge of the metal part of the seal would catch on the transmission case.

Mine is working fine backwards and besides, the oil level barely gets that high anyways…

The two from Lowell got held up on back-order. I found where Steve gave the SKF# some where and ordered one from Amazon. I used the input pully and even chamfered the rubber lip off to make sure it wasn't holding the edge out. It started and went in except where the key-way was on the input pulley.  Messed up a third one. The next one is goin' in bakards!

[ebinmaine 67,562]

3 minutes ago, GAJoe said:

except where the key-way

You can cover the keyway with scotch tape to help the seal slide on. 

[ebinmaine 67,562]

@GAJoe gives you an appreciation for why I buy seals in bulk packs ehh??