pfrederi 17,741 #51 Posted November 24, 2022 15 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said: But Eric, you just used a hammer… on your video… well I made a rookie mistake when I was removing my hubs on the 1984 Work Horse transmission last spring then… what would be a symptom if I damaged an axle lock ring (pre-your video) ? Excessive in and out movement of the axle More than 1/8" or so. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,657 #52 Posted November 24, 2022 38 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said: But Eric, you just used a hammer… on your video… well I made a rookie mistake when I was removing my hubs on the 1984 Work Horse transmission last spring then… what would be a symptom if I damaged an axle lock ring (pre-your video) ? Yessir I dunnit. What happens is that folks not knowing about that lock ring go and bang the everliving $noT outta the hub trying to remove it. Axle comes right on out in their hands. Uh oh..... 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,075 #53 Posted November 24, 2022 44 minutes ago, pfrederi said: Excessive in and out movement of the axle More than 1/8" or so. Well I may have gotten by with a cheat… didn’t notice any excessive movement after replacing my axle seals… thanks… 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,714 #54 Posted November 24, 2022 4 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said: Well I may have gotten by with a cheat… didn’t notice any excessive movement after replacing my axle seals… thanks… Well, I have TAPPED on my hubs with a hammer. Nothing broke when I tapped on mine... it could be that you also were gentle on yours... Now, you go ape-crapping on it... sure... things will break... just like anything else... Don 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,714 #55 Posted November 24, 2022 Plus, after seeing @Maxwell-8's experience with breaking a hub, I've always been afraid of that... so I never got the courage to pound on the hubs with a hammer. Even on my tractors that have sat for many years in the elements... I've never encountered a "stuck" hub... for whatever reason. Mine always seem to come right off. Strange with my luck... Don 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,202 #56 Posted November 24, 2022 55 minutes ago, Snoopy11 said: ape-crapping I call it "channeling your inner gorilla". I've seen some 'repairs' that looked like they were performed by the "Samsonite Gorilla" 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GAJoe 844 #57 Posted November 24, 2022 (edited) 5 hours ago, ebinmaine said: Kroil is EXCELLENT. Keep using that. The unistrut... Great idea but very likely not strong enough. The puller you have set up from the back of the hub should work just fine. See about replacing the unistrut with 2 more pieces of the much thicker metal. Heat is your friend. You won't over heat anything in there with a propane torch and should actually be using something hotter if possible. You can heat the hub right to red then wait maybe 5 minutes? Spray the kroil in while still quite toasty. As the oil is cooling the pieces it's also penetrating further in to more expanded areas. Heat. Oil. Repeat. Repeat. Repeat. etc... Again..... Do NOT use a hammer no matter how long it takes. ALL parts are available for these 8 speed transmissions. Hubs in good used form are $40-ish give or take, each. New aftermarket ones are also available for just over 100 bucks. I believe once you strengthen your puller your hubs will be removable and usable. I read your mind. No, the unistrut failed as you knew would happen. I've never done this before. I just finished beefing up the puller and came in to find you prophesy. Again I'm glad that I hoard metal. On the revised puller the metal behind the T-bar wasn't hard to drill at all. But that 4x4 square tube is some hard stuff as it should be. I'm beginning to think that maybe this isn't the second seal gone bad. I thought that he beat up the hub and heated it putting a new seal in that went bad. Now I wonder if he gave up with his first attempt and decided to sell it. I can see that being the case. I'm short one 5/8" nut to be ready to use it. Edited November 24, 2022 by GAJoe added details. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,657 #58 Posted November 24, 2022 Excellent revision Joe. You'll do. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,657 #59 Posted November 24, 2022 41 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said: I call it "channeling your inner gorilla". I've seen some 'repairs' that looked like they were performed by the "Samsonite Gorilla" Ya done found some o' my ole stuff ehh?? 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,324 #60 Posted November 25, 2022 7 hours ago, ebinmaine said: Yessir I dunnit. What happens is that folks not knowing about that lock ring go and bang the everliving $noT outta the hub trying to remove it. Axle comes right on out in their hands. Uh oh..... Once the puller has been tightened as far as it will go a few stout hits with a BFH Tool on the 4X4 tube (end of the axle) could shock the hub into moving a bit after tightening the bolts on your puller again. Also, tapping on the body (not the flange) of the hub with a small hammer while tightening the puller could be helpful 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 9,761 #61 Posted November 25, 2022 @GAJoe That revised puller should work, but they can really be stuck on there. On my C81After a couple of days of penetrant soaking I tightened my puller all I could by hand, let it sit over night, more penetrant and tightening, 3rd day tightened and it popped forward and sounded like a shot gun went off. Then I still had to wrench it all the way off with the puller. 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,075 #62 Posted November 25, 2022 Also, not sure if the C-160 you are working on has 2 set screws on each hub or not. But if it does, double check the axle for a raised area on the place where the set screw that screws against the axle is. When I removed hubs before I noticed a raised area there that was making removal more difficult. Check there and if you find a raised bit of axle metal, file it down smooth . 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GAJoe 844 #63 Posted November 25, 2022 5 hours ago, Horse Newbie said: Also, not sure if the C-160 you are working on has 2 set screws on each hub or not. But if it does, double check the axle for a raised area on the place where the set screw that screws against the axle is. When I removed hubs before I noticed a raised area there that was making removal more difficult. Check there and if you find a raised bit of axle metal, file it down smooth . just one, but thanks for the tip 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GAJoe 844 #64 Posted November 25, 2022 My daughter is a nurse so we are celebrating Thanksgiving today. I thought I'd do a couple simple tasks to prepare to take the transmission over to my good friends shop. I saw last knight on a YouTube the removal of the gear shifter pivot screw/retainer; simply losten the lock nut and screw it out. Simple huh..Not this one! I backed it out and found that it was broken. How on earth that happened I don't know. I was able to ge a 1/16' inch bit and drilled into the part still in the shifter. I put the bit in a bind and reversed it out. The good Lord helped on that one. 2 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GAJoe 844 #65 Posted November 25, 2022 On 11/23/2022 at 4:13 PM, ebinmaine said: I only have a dental pick but I'll reference it too. I have a screwdriver and one of these already. So I'm set there. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GAJoe 844 #66 Posted November 26, 2022 (edited) I got one of the hubs off but at a cost. I did put the heat to it and was wondering how much more pressure I could put on it when POP and the end of the axle disappeared the puller screw shaft changed angles. I put more turns and POP; making progress. I was wondering about the angle but wanted to keep it coming off. When It finally was off I saw that the pivot end of the puller screw shaft had failed. I don't know where it came from but probably made in China as most tools now days. It dug into the end of the shaft a good 1/16" deep. I'll get my dad to re-face the end of the axle on his lathe. I got the key out and cleaned up the axle. I then cleaned up the hub and got rid of the bit of raised scoring in the bore that prevented it from sliding back onto the shaft easily with a chainsaw sharpening file. I cleaned the key off and filed down the ridges raised by the set screw. That's ready to go back together after the repair. I used that hammer on a scrap of 1/2'x3/4"x8" aluminum bar to knock the key out. Edited November 26, 2022 by GAJoe 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,657 #67 Posted November 26, 2022 Excellent work. Don't be worried about that end face. It's just aesthetics. If'n ya got super easy quick access to the lathe that's fine but a bit of 80 grit or a file will get you there as well. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GAJoe 844 #68 Posted November 26, 2022 (edited) 8 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: Excellent work. Don't be worried about that end face. It's just aesthetics. If'n ya got super easy quick access to the lathe that's fine but a bit of 80 grit or a file will get you there as well. I could leave it so that every time I saw it to remember the the fun that I had. Edited November 26, 2022 by GAJoe 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,657 #69 Posted November 26, 2022 1 minute ago, GAJoe said: I could leave it so that every time I saw it to remind me of the the fun that I had. Trophy 🏆🏆. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,324 #70 Posted November 26, 2022 One hub down, one to go. The side you have removed the hub from is the side that will face down when you split the transmission. If the other hub won't come off with the puller you could pull that axle, the differential and the clean axle with the transmission right side case. Once it is on the bench the differential can be opened and the snap ring removed from the right axle then the hub can be pushed off in a press. Better to remove the hub if you can but there is an option. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GAJoe 844 #71 Posted November 26, 2022 10 minutes ago, 953 nut said: One hub down, one to go. The side you have removed the hub from is the side that will face down when you split the transmission. If the other hub won't come off with the puller you could pull that axle, the differential and the clean axle with the transmission right side case. Once it is on the bench the differential can be opened and the snap ring removed from the right axle then the hub can be pushed off in a press. Better to remove the hub if you can but there is an option. I was thinking that from the video that you sent me. If the bolts/nuts on the down side of the differential were accessible to hold so that I could unscrew the up side nuts/bolts. But I do recall that he had difficulty with getting that snap ring off with that tool that is the same size as mine. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,324 #72 Posted November 26, 2022 18 minutes ago, GAJoe said: I do recall that he had difficulty with getting that snap ring off with that tool that is the same size as mine. Most auto parts stores will loan you tools, not sure if snap ring pliers are in the loan program. If not you can PM me and I can loan you mine. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GAJoe 844 #73 Posted November 26, 2022 14 minutes ago, 953 nut said: Most auto parts stores will loan you tools, not sure if snap ring pliers are in the loan program. If not you can PM me and I can loan you mine. Thanks for the offer. I'll keep it in mind. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GAJoe 844 #74 Posted November 27, 2022 (edited) Well I loaded up the transmission and carried it over to my good friend Shawn's shop to get the other hub off and crack into it. We were successful in both. I could not believe how stuck that hub was. But Kroil and heat prevailed. Erick I cant tell you how helpful your videos were. We had the case cracked is less than a minute with the wood chisels. Shawn also refaced the input pully with a side grinder and finished it with a pad on his die grinder. I could never do that by hand as he did. He's a licensed aircraft mechanic that worked with me a few years back. Super good guy: great friend. Sorry to disappoint anyone but when we finish the repair he'll have so many hours in it that he gets the WH if I die before he does; done told the wife. He's one of my few friends that understands how well made it is and appreciates it. Edited November 27, 2022 by GAJoe 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,657 #75 Posted November 27, 2022 1 minute ago, GAJoe said: Erick I cant tell you how helpful your videos were Excellent. I'm really glad to hear that. Your situation is exactly why I made em. Excellent work by your friend on that pulley. 3 minutes ago, GAJoe said: when we finish the repair he'll have so many hours in it that he gets the WH if I die before he does; done told the wife. He's one of my few friends that understands how well made it is and appreciates it. That's what life is all about. Make sure the conveyance is in writing. It's fantastic to see others help out and have an appreciation of what they're really working on. If it makes you feel any better I'll be tearing into a Hydro transmission very soon. It's a 1975 C160. I'll be adding a Limited Slip Differential to it. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
