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JerryLook

Snowblower chute tiller slippage

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Ed Kennell
7 minutes ago, JerryLook said:

 some one put an eye bolt next to that. Maybe for a non hyd tractor? Looking at it just now, the rod had slipped a little and was hung up on the end of the eye bolt. So I need to remove that. It doesn’t do anything in my application that I know of.

Yep, that eyebolt is to attach a lift assist spring for manual lifts.

Glad you found the problem.

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lynnmor
2 hours ago, JerryLook said:

On my lift rod bracket that attaches to the tractor it has the piece that fits inside the lift rod, but also some one put an eye bolt next to that. Maybe for a non hyd tractor? Looking at it just now, the rod had slipped a little and was hung up on the end of the eye bolt. So I need to remove that. It doesn’t do anything in my application that I know of. 
 

Thanks for your help 

I would install the lift assistance spring as shown in the manual.  It is there to reduce the load on the lift mechanisms no matter if they are manual or hydraulic.  In addition, the blower will have less weight on the ground and will probably rattle less.

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JerryLook

Ok I’ll attach a spring to it there. 
 

Another little question. I’ve noticed the chain on the snowblower has gotten a lot looser recently. Is there a way to tighten it, or do I need to replace it? 

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JerryLook

Ok I found another thread where it says the bottom pulley should be in a slotted hole. So it sounds like I loosen that and move it to tighten the chain. 
 

When I was using the blower just now it started making a rumbling sound. The only thing I can see wrong is the chain is really loose. 

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lynnmor
4 hours ago, JerryLook said:

Ok I found another thread where it says the bottom pulley should be in a slotted hole. So it sounds like I loosen that and move it to tighten the chain. 
 

When I was using the blower just now it started making a rumbling sound. The only thing I can see wrong is the chain is really loose. 

 

While you have that sprocket loose to adjust it, check both sprockets for excess movement or roughness.  The chain should have chain lube applied after every use.  If the chain is rusted or worn, replace it before it takes out the sprockets.

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JerryLook

I tried adjusting the bottom sprocket, but the chain is still too loose IMO. I can take the chain coming off of the drive sprocket and touch it together. 
 

So looks like I’ll order a new chain. I assume I have to get it from some place online. I’ll do some research tonight. 
 

While I have the chain off I’ll take off the sprockets and make sure they spin freely.
Are all of the bearings on this unit sealed bearings? I wish they were grease-able. 

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Ed Kennell
3 minutes ago, JerryLook said:

I’ll order a new chain.

TSC should have the chain.

 

4 minutes ago, JerryLook said:

sealed bearings

They are sealed, but you can use a knife tip to lift the seal off, clean and regrease the bearings.    

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JerryLook
8 hours ago, Ed Kennell said:

TSC should have the chain.

 

They are sealed, but you can use a knife tip to lift the seal off, clean and regrease the bearings.    


It would be nice if TSC has the chain. It’s just size 40 chain correct? 
 

The Toro/WH number I have for it is 6416 

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peter lena

@JerryLook   MERRY CHRISTMAS ! use a small putty knife to remove bearing side shields , wipe out existing grease , would use a RED GREASE  in those , hi temp  / stress rated , also get a specific  open gear / chain / cable lubricant spray on that chain.  lubricate it before and after use , never let it dry out , also lubricate the drive belt idler pulley frame set up , so it responds to spring pull tension . hope santa brings you all the lubricants , springs , ideas , to improve areas ,  greasy pete

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JerryLook

Thanks Peter, and Merry Christmas to you too. It was silly of me to put the snowblower into use without really going through it first. Back when we had nice temps in the summer. Now I get to do it when it’s 5 outside. Haha 

 

I have some Lucas red and tacky. Sounds like that should be good for the bearings. 

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JerryLook

Also what are you guys using to install the new chain? Do you need like a big chain pin pusher? I have one that’s the size for bicycle chains, but not big enough for this chain. 
 

I notice the chains online that are sold for this model include a master link. The chain sold at TSC is just a 10’ piece. Maybe it has a master link also. 

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wallfish

The TSC chain will come with a master link.

I just grind off the pin ends and punch them through with a small punch and hammer.  No special chain breaker tool required

Don't worry about grinding to deep into the chain link, that one is being discarded anyway.

Face the opening on the master link's clip opposite from the direction of chain travel. That reduces the risk of it getting knocked off.

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lynnmor
1 hour ago, peter lena said:

@JerryLook   MERRY CHRISTMAS ! use a small putty knife to remove bearing side shields , wipe out existing grease , would use a RED GREASE  in those , hi temp  / stress rated , also get a specific  open gear / chain / cable lubricant spray on that chain.  lubricate it before and after use , never let it dry out , also lubricate the drive belt idler pulley frame set up , so it responds to spring pull tension . hope santa brings you all the lubricants , springs , ideas , to improve areas ,  greasy pete

 

Those bearings are recessed and rather difficult to grease by opening the seal.  I've never tried it, the sprockets were rather cheap in past years, now you need to search for a sensible price.

 

 

  Search for 520-103243 or just 103243, be sure to check hole size, the number covers multiple bores.  image.jpeg.145b4ecbc0d8561c5834bad6cd145ca0.jpeg

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Blasterdad
35 minutes ago, JerryLook said:

Also what are you guys using to install the new chain? Do you need like a big chain pin pusher? I have one that’s the size for bicycle chains, but not big enough for this chain. 
 

I notice the chains online that are sold for this model include a master link. The chain sold at TSC is just a 10’ piece. Maybe it has a master link also. 

 

I just replaced mine, 10' piece from TSC comes with master link in the box.

It was #40, $25.00

I think mine was 100 links, count the links on the old chain, it will be stretched out so the same number of links on the new chain will be shorter.

If it's still too long remove 1 link & try again until it in it's adjustability range.

I just route the chain wih gloves on until both ends are at the front, pull together & slip the master link in.

As stated check your idler sprockets, my top one was shot.

You can also put your old chain on one of your front tires, should be the perfect length. :thumbs:

 

New chain & sprocket.

IMG_0501.JPG.906d709f833338518cb4e15eaf146bc9.JPG

 

Old chain & bad sprocket on blower.

IMG_0500.JPG.456a37fada73d783b809e5c57108787c.JPG

 

New chain & sprocket on blower.

IMG_0503.JPG.02914cb514a280a0c809e7f0996c25ad.JPG

 

Old chain on front wheel.

IMG_0498.JPG.6044f2a70070083bba4b6665e2c8ac91.JPG

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peter lena

@lynnmor realise that type of bearing sealing is  different , making it not easy to regrease . always look for a wide seal type first on bearing / sprocket match . @Blasterdad  chain looks good , 1/2"  deflection  on bottom  adjust ment bolt. I  also go after the idler pulleys  for easy function , and lubricate the pulley frame they are on , for spring follow movement .  have also added a stiffer  pul lspring  on that  idler set up , mine really hauls  , moves with total ease . my pto lever related cone bearings , are also regreased , spin up is  easy ,  smooth , just some of the detailing , i,ve done on a blower set up .  you do not have to do what I  have done ,  only a suggestion  . have a great christmas , pete 

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JerryLook

Got the sprockets off and the seals out of one side. The bearings still feel decent, but definitely need grease. 

6EF4C18B-CCED-4339-8997-8CF61CBAD03A.jpeg

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JerryLook

I went to TSC and picked up their last roll of #40 chain. Going to pull the old one off and count the links. 

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peter lena

@JerryLook  https://www.walmart.com/ip/Lucas-Oil-10005-Red-N-Tacky-Grease-14-oz/36052506?6c3241b19a6c6c005641b940ae6&gclsrc=3p.ds  very good grease in hi stress areas / also heat , have it in both aerosol and tube , use lucas red / green grease in all my stuff, quiet , and stands up , pete

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JerryLook

I use either the Lucas red and tacky or the Lucas blue marine grease. Right now I have red and tacky in the grease gun. 
 

I got the new chain installed, and the greased sprockets reinstalled. I tested out the blower and it does sound quieter. I’ll probably replace the sprockets in the spring. 
 

One more question. How do you grease the bearings that hold the auger shaft? There are no zerks that I can see. And it looks like I’d have to take out the bearing plates to get to the bearings. 

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JerryLook

Btw, the old chain was stretched, but maybe not as bad as I thought. It was about half a link longer than the new one. 
 

I was able to get the new chain tight enough and still be in the middle of the adjustment slot 

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JerryLook

We’re supposed to get a nice thaw in a couple days. I’m hoping the snowblower will thaw out and all the ice and snow will melt off of it. 


I want to lube up the new chain, and also try to coat the chute with something so snow doesn’t stick. I have a problem with snow sticking in the chute in the first part of it. Right when the snow comes off the auger it sticks in that round part and clogs it. I want to call it the auger collar. 
 

Anyways I have some Pam spray I was going to coat it with. 

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