Snowblower chute tiller slippage

[JerryLook 73]

I have a Toro 0642ST07 snowblower on my 416H tractor. This is my first time using it this year. I noticed that when you turn the chute tiller (no idea what the actual name is for this thing. The handle that changes the chute direction) it will slip most of the time. It does turn it eventually.
 

I was wondering if there is an adjustment I can make, or do I need a new ring gear etc? 
 

Thanks 

 

 

Edited November 21, 2022 by JerryLook

[doc724 925]

the worm gear is not close enough to the ring gear.  There has to be some adjustment somewhere.  I never had this problem with any of my blowers.  BTW, slather both with plenty of grease. 

[JerryLook 73]

Ok thanks. I’ll clean the snow off them and see if there’s a bracket I can adjust or something. Both sides seems to be in decent shape, and not worn etc. 

 

Btw, the snowblower is awesome. I do need to put some chains and wheel weights on my tractor as well, but it does a good job for now. I have the chains and weights in the shed, just waiting for me to have to time to put them on. 

[wallfish 16,983]

There's a nut directly under the worm gear holding it with a carriage bolt to the bracket. Loosen that and tap the worm gear towards the chute but don't wedge them tight as possible. When it's too tight it will bind the chute on the blower housing.

[JerryLook 73]

Ok thanks. I just took a look at it and found the nut. I was able to move it around a little and it does work better.
 

I think another issue I have is some excess friction in the chute base where it rotates. It probably needs to be taken apart and cleaned/lubed. I’ll have to check that out tomorrow and see how it comes apart. 

[JerryLook 73]

On a side note, it’s so nice to have the hyd adjustment of the snowblower height. I can’t imagine having to do it manually with the lever. My driveway is somewhat uneven, and I have to make small adjustments often to keep the blower at the right height. 

[Ed Kennell 38,021]

1 hour ago, JerryLook said:

it’s so nice to have the hyd adjustment of the snowblower height

Hydraulic lift, heated cab and foot control....all must haves for snow machines.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,032]

https://www.partstree.com/models/06-42st07-toro-42-snow-thrower-attachment-sn-010000001-019999999-1991/

[WHX?? 48,763]

There are three plastic or nylon  chute retainers around the chute. They are known to wear and break so check those. A guy here has replacements. Clean the ring gear of old grease & rust and grease good when reassembling. 

[peter lena 8,580]

@doc724  thanks for the word , " SLATHER  "  is just about the only word I  haven't used  in referring to  lubricating an area , usually wallowing in it  , as I  set things up , @JerryLook  you could also add some super lube aerosol  lubricant to that chute base , to enhance its swing action ,  have a good turkey day  , pete

[lynnmor 7,302]

11 hours ago, JerryLook said:

On a side note, it’s so nice to have the hyd adjustment of the snowblower height. I can’t imagine having to do it manually with the lever. My driveway is somewhat uneven, and I have to make small adjustments often to keep the blower at the right height. 

I never use the lift to adjust the snowblower height, it has a foot on each side that should be adjusted to set the lower position.  When using the lift to raise the blower you may find that it will not be even when suspended.

[JerryLook 73]

I took the chute base apart tonight and cleaned everything. Those 3 sliders mentioned above, and the ring they spin on. 
There was some rust and built up gunk in the area. I scraped/cleaned it well, and then used a good bit of grease and reassembled. It does work pretty good now. 
 

In regards to the snowblower height.... My driveway is not paved. There are some sections of uneven ground. I’ll look at the height adjusting feet, but it might not help in some spots of the driveway. 
 

I have to bump it up a 1/2” or so in some spots. Just to go over a hump etc. 

 

Thanks for the help guys. And have a happy Turkey day. 

 

 

[WHX?? 48,763]

Good job Jerry... next investment might be a mid mount blade to smooth out them humps. If you pick up alot of stones or gravel set the skids up to 3/4 or so.  Don't blow just a light dusting or so but let it pack down and freeze if you can. Provides a good base and can cement things. Aggregate and blowers do not play well together. 

[peter lena 8,580]

@JerryLook   also added this knob to my chute lever , matching die nut makes it easy , works very nice with mittens / gloves , what do you use for auger chain lubricant  ?  OPEN GEAR / CABLE AND CHAIN SPRAY . will stay with it , 1/2 " chain play . never let the chain dry out . also lubricate the blower  frame area  for ease of movement to tractor  and pulley belt follow , the easier it moves the better your drive belt works . detailed the hell out of mine , spins with total ease , pete

 

[JerryLook 73]

I’d like to get a mid mount blade. Also I’d like a set of discs of something similar for the garden. 
 

I also have a full size farm tractor with FEL. It’s great for moving a big pile of dirt etc, but not good for finer finishing work. Like trying to get the driveway perfect. There comes a time with the big ag tires do more harm than the loader bucket does good. 
Anyways, I’ve found the Wheelhorse with its turf tires is pretty gentle. I use that tractor for many smaller chores. 
 

I’ve been using the same lube on the snowblower chain that I use on my bicycle chain. It’s a 50/50 mix of mineral spirits and new motor oil. The mineral spirits is to thin it enough to penetrate into the chain links. Then most of that evaporates and leaves the oil behind. I’m not sure how well it works for the snowblower, but I can get 10k miles out of a bicycle chain using that lube  
Reapplying it often of course. One drip per roller and then wipe off the excess. 

 

I do want to improve the snowblower the best I can. I paid 100$ for it this summer. It seems to have low hours on it. Chain stretch looks good. The bearings all feel good too. I took it apart somewhat this summer after I got it. The only thing I didn’t mess with is the chute base sliders. 
 

We had a little winter preview last weekend. Now almost all the snow has melted, and I’ll have some time to tweak things before the next big snow. 

[JerryLook 73]

i got the wheel weights off my C-105 and onto the 416H today. The wheel weights were installed with the carriage bolts facing in. It looked nice, but the bolt heads just spun when I tried to remove them. I got 6 out, and had to drill/cut the other two out. 
 

When I reinstalled them on the 416H, I put the bolt coming from the wheel side. So the square of the bolt head sits in the square of the rim like it’s supposed to. I still need to trim the bolts a little. They stick out about 2”. Haha 

 

I’m only using two bolts per wheel right now. If it’s a problem at some point I’ll buy more carriage bolts and install 4 per wheel like where there originally. 
 

I’m going to see how it does with just the wheel weights, and add the tire chains if I need them. 

A side note. This is a hydro trans. I’ve noticed since the weather has gotten colder it takes the trans longer to warm up. Meaning it won’t lift the snowblower for about 1-2 minutes after starting. It sounds like the pump primes at that point. The tractor would drive immediately, but the lift doesn’t work for a couple minutes. Is this normal? The trans fluid and filter was changed this summer. 

 

[Ed Kennell 38,021]

1 hour ago, JerryLook said:

lift doesn’t work for a couple minutes. Is this normal?

It is normal for some of the Eaton 1100 transmissions.      I have 3 that lift on start up and 1 that requires a warm up.

 

Wheel Horse recommends  a 10 minute warm up for all Eaten 1100s to prevent damage.

[WHX?? 48,763]

every one of mine act different so I treat them accordingly.

Two bolts should be fine ... that's all I run on my plow mules with no issues. 

[JerryLook 73]

That’s good to know about the trans. Since it’s been colder I run the engine until I hear the pump sound change, and then I know it’s ready to use. It’s probably good to warm the engine up that long anyways. 

[Jayzauto 89]

Cut those carriage bolts to the proper length, then use Chrome Acorn nuts to secure the weights....It'll look pretty then   And smoother when you drag yours shins cross them.... So I'm Told!!!!

 

GLuck, Jay

[JerryLook 73]

Something related to the snowblower, I’m having an issue with it going down all the way. 
I’ve been using it around a half dozen times. When I went to use it tonight it wouldn’t go down all the way. Like when I would lower it down to blow some snow or would hang off the ground about 2”. I can’t see anything holding it up like ice or snow. Any ideas? 
 

When I hold the lever down it sounds like it’s at the bottom of the travel. It makes the hydraulic sound when it can’t go up or down any more. 
This is on a 416H 

[Ed Kennell 38,021]

1 hour ago, JerryLook said:

Any ideas? 

Check the piston...is it all the way in when this happens.    Is it possible the "flag" slipped out a bit and bound up in the push/lift rod ?

[JerryLook 73]

It might be that the lift rod slipped out a little. It’s very hard to get on. I have to move the tractor back and forth, and wiggle the snowblower to get it on the last couple inches. 

I store the tractor with the snowblower sitting on a block of wood, so it doesn't freeze to the ground. Now that I think about it, the blower hangs off the ground about the same distance the block of wood is tall. Could be sitting it down on the block has pulled out the lift rod some. 
 

I'm going out to blow snow here in a minute. I’ll look at it. Thanks. 

[Ed Kennell 38,021]

[JerryLook 73]

On my lift rod bracket that attaches to the tractor it has the piece that fits inside the lift rod, but also some one put an eye bolt next to that. Maybe for a non hyd tractor? Looking at it just now, the rod had slipped a little and was hung up on the end of the eye bolt. So I need to remove that. It doesn’t do anything in my application that I know of. 
 

Thanks for your help