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stolmar

d series steering issues

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stolmar

I have a d180 that had a lot of play in the ross steering box. I tightened the point screw and it didn't work like it should have. I removed it to find it had worn a flat spot. I, by hand ground it round again and reinstalled it. Maybe too tight. It was never correct like my other D's. My question is, is there an reasonably easy way too remove the gear box and rebuild it

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Achto
52 minutes ago, stolmar said:

is there an reasonably easy way too remove the gear box and rebuild it

 

Don't know how easy it will be to remove it but there are rebuild kits for the Ross box. May take a little on line searching to find what you need.

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pfrederi

Difficulty in removing it ranges from significant effort to a real PITA depending on if you have a rear PTO and a loader sub frame....  Nothing on a D is easy

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Markc141

I just removed one from a d160.  I took apart probably  more than you really need to but I'm parting it out. I have the Ross steering for sale. Someone removed the threads but I'm sure it's fixable.

20221120_153441.jpg

received_1139733226684221.jpeg

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pacer

As @pfrederi said, there not much on a D thats easy and the Ross is a pretty good chore (if you got PTO, then double that) The Ross is known to get that slop and the "cam follower" is almost always the culprit. There is a 'kit' on the bay that has it and a set of new ball bearings (be sure you get the 9/16" one) 

 

Go to the bay search and put in "Cub Cadet 9/16"-18 Cam Follower Stud" its $18.50 +ship.

 

Picture 1 of 2

 

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stolmar

Like always, thank you for the quick response. This one is pretty basic. It had a 3 point hitch at some point but the p.o had removed it. The steering wheel actually raises when turning it. She may need more than I'm thinking

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Achto
11 hours ago, stolmar said:

The steering wheel actually raises when turning it. She may need more than I'm thinking

 

The steering wheel raising is usually an indication of a bad lower bearing in the Ross box. I've rebuilt a few Cub Cadets with the same issue. Not a difficult job, once every thing is on the bench.

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pacer

The wheel rising could be from the bottom roller bearings 'cage'' probably - or was - plastic and it will disintegrate allowing the balls to fall out. I cant remember when I was lucky enough to find a still useable cage!

But, I found that I could liberally apply heavy grease on the bottom race and carefully stack the balls in the sticky grease, staying there til until I could ease the shaft onto them. If you get the kit you will want to add 2 (IIRC) extra balls. There are no gaskets, so you will have to make one - I use cardboard, some thing like a Cereal. box.

 

I see @Achto jumped in while I was typing with similar advice......

 

This is a rather involved undertaking, but its not rocket science and you should be able to do it, Good Luck!!

 

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pacer

Speaking of steering wheels ------ they can be a booger to get off. I would strongly suggest getting this type puller, put that in search on the bay --- "Bearing Splitter Gear Puller Fly Wheel Extractor "Picture 1 of 7

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oliver2-44

An Auto Supply like NAPA or Oreilly may have a puller like that to lend out.  I rebuild a Case Ross steering box a several years ago that was in really bad shape due to water in it for a long time. 

I got replacement balls from one of those gray drawers at ACE or you favorite hardware store.  The tube on my Case was heavily rusted at the bottom and is a hard to find tubing size.  But a piece of tubing from a trampoline frame is the correct size. I had to emery the outside a little to get it to fit in the aluminum housing, then JB welded it in.  The Case Ross box cam spirals the opposite direction than the Cub and some of the more commonly found boxes.   So I had to repair my spiral cam gear on the steering shaft (that the follower rides in was  heavily pitted.  I sand blasted it , coated it with JB weld and laid plastic wrap on top of the epoxy and used my finger to follow the cam contour.  When it was dry I sanded it smooth down to metal showing so just the pits had epoxy in them.  The top steering shaft support was gone and someone told me to use a flanged front wheel bearing up there. Its been working fine ever since.  

Edited by oliver2-44
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stolmar

Thank you for all the advice. I have one of those bearing separators so we're good there. I've started soaking the steering wheel/shaft and will do so for the next few days. 

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