Kohler Magnum 14hp condensaation build up.

[squonk 41,158]

You can't stop mother nature. All engines breath. If it breaths in a bunch of humid air and is shut off. And then you get a big temp change which we get in the fall all the time, the moisture will condense. Can't stop the laws of science. A little thru the breather, a little thru the dipstick seal, a little thru a tiny gasket leak. It is what it is. Best way to get rid of it is to run the engine long enough to get it to evaporate. Sometimes it will take longer than you think.

[Dennis C. 142]

Just removed the plug and it has carbon build up but no wet oil or a wet plug. I have a new one.

 Engine doesn't use oil and it's oil clean during the warmer months. I'll drain the oil tomorrow after I take a picture of the dipstick and try  5-30 since the temps are  the low 30's now.

LikeI said earlier, even after a 1/2 hour on 1/2 throttle, the engine was still cold.

[Snoopy11 5,714]

4 minutes ago, Dennis C. said:

after a 1/2 hour on 1/2 throttle, the engine was still cold

Sounds like your engine is running on the rich side, particularly coupled with the carbon buildup on the spark plug. Heat range of the plug could be too cold as well.

 

I would ensure that you are using the correct spark plug for the machine (look at the manual for your machine to find the right plug) and once you put a new plug in it, try adjusting the carb more on the lean side, that will help keep carbon down and help the engine come up to operating temperature. Adjust it lean (clockwise) until it breaks up, then go back (counterclockwise) just a hair so it purrs.

 

If your machine is overly rich, that could also possibly contribute to the oil issue you are having as the condensation isn't burning off, much like Mike said above.

 

Don

[Snoopy11 5,714]

1 hour ago, Dennis C. said:

Storage shed is brand new but both storage sheds have a moisture problem in the cooler months and winter. Even all my tools are wet

P.S. Might be a good idea to buy a cover for your machine.

 

Don

[Dennis C. 142]

4 minutes ago, Snoopy11 said:

Sounds like your engine is running on the rich side, particularly coupled with the carbon buildup on the spark plug. Heat range of the plug could be too cold as well.

 

I would ensure that you are using the correct spark plug for the machine (look at the manual for your machine to find the right plug) and once you put a new plug in it, try adjusting the carb more on the lean side, that will help keep carbon down and help the engine come up to operating temperature. Adjust it lean (clockwise) until it breaks up, then go back (counterclockwise) just a hair so it purrs.

 

If your machine is overly rich, that could also possibly contribute to the oil issue you are having as the condensation isn't burning off, much like Mike said above.

 

Don

Correct plug is a RH10C, which I have, I'll chase the threads and install.You may be correct about being too rich, this engine is a thirsty one. The fellow I bought then tractor from did a lot of "tinkering" on it which i have been trying to address.

[Dennis C. 142]

1 minute ago, Snoopy11 said:

P.S. Might be a good idea to buy a cover for your machine.

 

Don

COVERED

[Snoopy11 5,714]

As far as the plug goes, (just stating the obvious) just make sure it is gapped correctly.

 

For a test, it might be a good idea to put the plug into the spark plug wire, place the body of the spark plug on metal... (don't hold it with your hand) and crank the engine over to make sure that you have nice, strong spark.

 

It sounds like it has good spark, but just a good idea to verify before you proceed. Should be nice blue color flame.

 

 

Don

[Snoopy11 5,714]

14 minutes ago, Dennis C. said:

this engine is a thirsty one

You don't hear that said about many Kohler engines... most of the GAZZ-GUZZLERS are the Onans. Just AnothA reason that it sounds like it has a rich fuel mixture...

 

Speaking from personal experience, my Kohler engines just sip fuel...

 

Don

[JCM 9,181]

56 minutes ago, squonk said:

 Best way to get rid of it is to run the engine long enough to get it to evaporate. Sometimes it will take longer than you think.

Went through this scenario  with my new 1989 312-8 with the Kohler Magnum. Bought my 520-H and started using that for snow removal and the 312 was now sitting a lot. Figured I would start it every few weeks and let it run for 10 or 15 minutes and it developed the issue you speak about. The only oil that I have used in it is Valvoline 10w-30 year round since new and now has 600 hrs on it and by running it longer or not starting it and the issue has never resurfaced. JMO  Good Luck

[lynnmor 7,308]

Pull the breather apart and replace the filter, gaskets and tubing as required.

[953 nut 55,324]

2 hours ago, Dennis C. said:

It has more to do with the property, my house is the same way. WET. Neither shed is insulated and both have vents. The land is very damp . In the winter   the tools and mowers all have water droplets on them.  Not much I can do about that.

There is something constructive you can do, install a 6 mil vapor barrier under the floor of the storage shed and cover it with sand. That should reduce the humidity in the shed substantially. Installing some drainage away from the shed would help too.

[kpinnc 12,103]

4 hours ago, Dennis C. said:

COVERED

 

As already mentioned, vapor barrier will make a difference. Also, whatever you cover the tractor with needs to shed water droplets, but be breathable as well. A tarp or similar will ruin a tractor.

 

I use moving blankets in my barn for the same reason. My barn has condensation issues as well. Half of it has livestock in it, so a vapor barrier isn't feasable. It gets so damp in cooler weather that water drips off the ceiling. The moving blankets don't absorb water, so a few drips are shed. But the blankets also breathe. They've worked better than anything else I've tried so far.

 

Another related point- Don't leave your tires in contact with the ground in that situation. Wood blocks, pavers, whatever. Your tires will rot and weather check in just a few months.

[Dennis C. 142]

10 hours ago, kpinnc said:

 

As already mentioned, vapor barrier will make a difference. Also, whatever you cover the tractor with needs to shed water droplets, but be breathable as well. A tarp or similar will ruin a tractor.

 

I use moving blankets in my barn for the same reason. My barn has condensation issues as well. Half of it has livestock in it, so a vapor barrier isn't feasable. It gets so damp in cooler weather that water drips off the ceiling. The moving blankets don't absorb water, so a few drips are shed. But the blankets also breathe. They've worked better than anything else I've tried so far.

 

Another related point- Don't leave your tires in contact with the ground in that situation. Wood blocks, pavers, whatever. Your tires will rot and weather check in just a few months.

The tractor is stored in a NEW storage shed on a wood pressure treated floor 12" above any ground.

[Sailman 1,291]

Sounds like some good advice from others here but the extreme moisture issue concerns me. With droplets of water on everything including tools I would think some attempt to minimize the moisture would go a long way.

I would start with the vapor barrier under the shed described above.

Ideally a dehumidifier or "dry stick" if you have AC to the shed. Anything to reduce the condensation.

Other possibility might be to tent it like suggested here but put some stay dry containers under the tent and tractor. 

[stevasaurus 22,764]

One of the mistakes that people make is not having or they cover up vents that are or should be in the soffit.  These along with roof vents let air circulate up along the sheeting for the roof.  An attic fan in a gable end would take care of your issue.  You don't need to run it all the time, just when you start to see the moisture.  

Edited November 16, 2022 by stevasaurus

[Dennis C. 142]

4 hours ago, Sailman said:

Sounds like some good advice from others here but the extreme moisture issue concerns me. With droplets of water on everything including tools I would think some attempt to minimize the moisture would go a long way.

I would start with the vapor barrier under the shed described above.

Ideally a dehumidifier or "dry stick" if you have AC to the shed. Anything to reduce the condensation.

Other possibility might be to tent it like suggested here but put some stay dry containers under the tent and tractor. 

I've been here 19 years and not only is this a problem in my two storage sheds but my house. My Panzer with a 8hp Briggs, my two spare Briggs and my 312-8 don't have this problem only the Magnum14hp engine

[Dennis C. 142]

OK all, here is the picture of the dipstick taken 10 minutes ago after running 15 minutes at 1/2 throttle.

I installed a new plug, correctly gaped, adjusted the Walbro carb according to the manual. Engine is warming up now after 10 minutes.

Currently draining the oil and will replace with 5-30 wt and see what happens next.

[edgro 677]

Set a bucket of damprid near any areas of condensation and see if that helps, it seem to have helped some for me

[lynnmor 7,308]

Looks like your water is condensing on the relatively cold dipstick.  Again, check your breather.  Running an engine at half throttle with no load won't build much heat.  When you drain motor oil, do it hot and have your tools ready then drain immediately after shutting down.

[Snoopy11 5,714]

3 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

Running an engine at half throttle with no load won't build much heat.

Absolutely correct.

 

Full throttle all the way. If it's a mowing machine, engage PTO.

 

Don

[RED-Z06 2,221]

I put a probe into the oil on a splash lubed tecumseh power washer engine and the oil never reached "boil off" temp of 212*...it got up to like 170⁰ and sat there...after 45 minutes running on and off load...it never got there.  

 

Mags and K have a large capacity and Flatheads ran cool.  I put a CHT gauge on my K241 and mowing mid summer it runs 266⁰F...but running around at 55⁰ ambient it never hits 200⁰...so below that temp and knowing oil will be cooler than that...im probably not seeing 175⁰ oil temps.  When you get high humidity and the block gets cool at night then warms up in a humid environment, iys inevitably going to accumulate.

[Dennis C. 142]

Thanks for all the information guys. I don't use the tractor during the cold months so she will sit till Spring. Oil is changed, new plug and the carb adjusted to the manual.

One more question though. How much vibration is normal?  This engine seems to vibrate a lot compared to my Magnum12hp engine. All the engine mounting bolts are secured with Blue thread locker so i know they aren't loose. This is not the original 14hp that came with the tractor. The original engines block was destroyed  when the previous owner ran the engine with the camshaft dislodged from the the other side of the block. Block could not be repaired. If the engine needs to be opened up, now is the time to do it. Thanks again.