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formariz

Kohler breaker less ignition problems

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formariz

My Electro 12 lost spark suddenly. I shut it off and could not start it again. I am pretty familiar with this system but it has me stumped.

1- coil tests good using all recommended tests. 
2- trigger tests good. 
3- switch kill wire is ok . Disconnected it to remove switch off equation.

4- With wire from trigger removed from coil when cranking I have 14 volts +/-. That also substantiates that trigger is ok?

5- plugging trigger wire back into coil and cranking, now I only have about 2 volts.

6- spark plug wire is also good. 
 

 What is the problem? Any help is greatly appreciated. 

Edited by formariz
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Pullstart

:popcorn:looking forward to learning here…

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squonk

Inside the Trigger there is a "switch" When the switch is open, power flows to the coil primary, This is your 14 volts. When it closes, it creates a path for the 14 volts to ground inside the trigger. This stops the flow to the coil and collapses the primary circuit which induces the secondary high voltage spark. I think the switch in the trigger is faulty stuck closed. Removing the wire at the coil and checking voltage with a meter would give an easy path to ground. Voltage from the stator would flow from diode 2 to your meter. When that wire is connected to the coil it has to fight thru the coil primary resistance to ground so it flows thru the closed switch. Crank the engine and with a test light or analog meter, see if the light flashes or the meter pulses when cranking on the wire from the trigger at the coil..

 

710075941_breakerlessscematic.jpg.f7884695350e66e82af609732e4cb185.jpg

 

 

Edited by squonk
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formariz

I don’t have an analogue meter. Please explain to me how to use the test light.

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953 nut

A couple years back @Aldon had a thread going about the breaker-less ignition system. Lots of good information in it.

 

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squonk

Connect everything. Ground your test light. Place the probe of the light onto the coil terminal that comes from trigger. Crank the engine over. The light should blink. 

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squonk

Section 8 of this PDF

 

 

TP-2379.pdf

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formariz

Thank you. Going out there in a minute.

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squonk

I had a Raider 12 that ran funky. I discovered the spark was intermittently going out. I figured the trigger was starting to go. 50 yr. old electronics subject to extreme temps and vibration. Sold it to a guy who was going to convert it to points.

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formariz
32 minutes ago, squonk said:

Connect everything. Ground your test light. Place the probe of the light onto the coil terminal that comes from trigger. Crank the engine over. The light should blink. 

Light does not go on or blink!

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squonk

Sounds like the switch is stuck closed in the trigger to me. The only other thing I could think of is something with the flywheel magnets not triggering the trigger

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formariz

Forgive my ignorance here but this thing is obviously not related to wood unfortunately. Why do I measure voltage with a digital multi meter when cranking, but the test light will not go on? There is obviously voltage in there.

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Pullstart
Just now, formariz said:

Forgive my ignorance here but this thing is obviously not related to wood unfortunately. Why do I measure voltage with a digital multi meter when cranking, but the test light will not go on? There is obviously voltage in there.


There may not be enough true power (amps) getting through the switch, though the meter can see something.

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squonk
1 minute ago, formariz said:

Forgive my ignorance here but this thing is obviously not related to wood unfortunately. Why do I measure voltage with a digital multi meter when cranking, but the test light will not go on? There is obviously voltage in there.

12 Volt test light is a 9 volt bulb with resistance. You measured 2 volts earlier and that would hardly light the bulb. Plus the resitsance would drag the little bit of voltage down further .A digital meter has a tiny resistance and can read voltage down to the tenths

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formariz

As much as I would like to leave this system in there, however, due to availability and price of parts, I don't believe it makes sense any more. With a battery ignition system anything is easily diagnosed and replaced quickly at a minimum cost. This is the plow tractor here and had this happened during snow, it would have been a very serious set back for me. I am going to change it. A bit of work considering that I also have to change switch and introduce a solenoid but I will have peace of mind with that system. This happened once before and it was the stator that was burnt when two wires at the rectifier  loosened and shorted themselves.Tractor was down for over two months then until I found a stator.

Edited by formariz
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ebinmaine

Excellent information here. Thanks for posting this stuff folks.

 

 

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RJ Hamner

If you think these two parts will help solve your problem I'll send them to you

I'll need an address

Bob

IMG_0198.jpg

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formariz
2 hours ago, RJ Hamner said:

If you think these two parts will help solve your problem I'll send them to you

I'll need an address

Bob

IMG_0198.jpg

Thank you Bob. I wouldn’t mind trying the trigger which may be the culprit. I have a good coil Paul @oldredrider sent me. If it’s not trigger then perhaps it would be stator which I then will just convert it since I have all of those parts. I will PM you. 

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