JP56 38 #1 Posted November 7, 2022 Has anyone ever had the roll-pin on the Cam (the Oblong Tab that the Return Spring Anchors to) on the end of the Clutch rod Assembly Shear Off on BOTH sides of the Shaft , allowing the clutch pedal to rotate all the way forward flat? Not only did mine snap on both sides leaving a portion inside the hole in the shaft, but the hole where the return spring goes through it, is so worn that it will probably not be long before it where right thru & the spring will pop off that end! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,752 #2 Posted November 7, 2022 This is the 312-8 pedal schematic.... What part are you talkin' about?? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JP56 38 #3 Posted November 7, 2022 Part # 18. No Longer available 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,752 #4 Posted November 8, 2022 The original # 18 is OEM part # 4899 as shown in earlier 'Clutch Pivot Arm' shcematics... I have one for $32...shipped. I am trying to verrify that the part# of your 312-8 (105896) is the same item. . 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,752 #5 Posted November 8, 2022 Here is a pic of the 312-8 Clutch Pivot Arm #105896. It is the same as old part # 4899. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JP56 38 #6 Posted November 8, 2022 My IPL does show it as Clutch Pivot Arm #1 05896. I haven't found anyplace that doesn't say Discontinued or Unavailable, but have seen a few used on FleaBay. I will clean it up in the am & see what part # if any is stamped on it. I will also post a pic for opinions on how badly worn the spring hole is. On a side note, I live in an area of 1 acre home sites. I have an acre but tonight I just notice for the first time in 32 years, that the neighbor two houses away from mine, who has only a bit less then 1/2 acre of useable yard on his 1 acre, has a 312-8 as well. I spoke to him & he told me he purchased it brand new & has never put a penny into it aside from gas and oil since he owned it. Mine is a 1988 with the M12 engine, & his is IDENTICAL to mine including the NON-working idiot lights on the center stack, but he insists that he got his in 1974, but I thought I saw someplace that 985 the first year for these 312-8's with the Magnum, M12? Can anyone confirm? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,324 #7 Posted November 8, 2022 1985 was the first year for the 312 series and 1987 was the year that the Magnum engines were used on them. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JP56 38 #8 Posted November 8, 2022 Here is the tab or Clutch Arm after cleaning it up. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The Freightliner Guy 1,327 #9 Posted November 8, 2022 Yeah that don’t look to good 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JP56 38 #10 Posted November 8, 2022 22 hours ago, daveoman1966 said: The original # 18 is OEM part # 4899 as shown in earlier 'Clutch Pivot Arm' shcematics... I have one for $32...shipped. I am trying to verrify that the part# of your 312-8 (105896) is the same item. .daveoman1966 please pm me when you get a chance, about this part. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,714 #11 Posted November 9, 2022 @JP56... Give Lincoln at A-Z tractor a call... he can probably get you the part pretty cheap. 5 hours ago, JP56 said: Here is the tab or Clutch Arm after cleaning it up. I have repaired parts such as that in the past. Many times the spring on mowing decks does that to the arms that they attach to. If you had a welder, you could fix it relatively easily... Don 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,714 #12 Posted November 9, 2022 Another thing that comes to mind that I have done before... Before you go spending your dinner money on a used part, consider JB welding the old hole closed, and drilling a new hole in the arm in a little different area... such as this: That is something that you can absolutely do rather than flushing 3 Hamiltons and 2 Washingtons... Don Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The Freightliner Guy 1,327 #13 Posted November 9, 2022 (edited) Or you could weld the worn out hole and drill the same size hole again not sure how good it’d work but just a idea Edited November 9, 2022 by The Freightliner Guy 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,714 #14 Posted November 9, 2022 Most people don't have welding machines... and they wouldn't know how to plug weld without burning a bigguh hole and ruining their piece. I could fix it with my welding machine... but I have the welding experience to back it up. Not sure that the OP does... Most people DO have drills though... I don't think that drilling a new hole is a big deal at all. Should last another 30+ years... Don 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,637 #15 Posted November 9, 2022 @Snoopy11 years ago , cut off and rethreaded my clutch lever rod to this spot , and have been testing a heim joint for durability / failure , no issues , greased the spring pull point , zero wear . done that on a number of issue areas , eliminate the sloppy play , make it solid / smooth , don't tell anybody you experimented with this chronic issue , go greasy , pete 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,637 #16 Posted November 9, 2022 @Snoopy11 pto lever ,heim joint , same scenario as that clutch rod ,bracket original , sloppy movement point . when ever I am dealing with a movement irregularity point , in addition to detailing in function , lubrication , make a plan to correct the problem . then road test for comparison issues , is it better ? worse ? more often than not , the problem just goes away , along with solid smooth / easy action , regularly did this , pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
