kwik way loader pump

[857lover 291]

so i found the pump that was used with this loader originally and i’m wondering how i know if it’s in good working condition or not or if it needs a rebuild or if i should just get a new pump and i did get the spool valves as i belive they are called and i moved my towers back a little 

[sjoemie himself 3,068]

Well you could get lucky but imho it most of the time isn't without reason that pump is out of a tractor.

Best way to go is to let a local hydraulic shop check it out. They can tell you pretty quick if it's good or not and if it is repairable. 

[Pullstart 62,812]

You have nothing to loose by opening it up and checking it out, maybe you’ll learn something from it 

[857lover 291]

48 minutes ago, Pullstart said:

You have nothing to loose by opening it up and checking it out, maybe you’ll learn something from it 

Yeah i probably will i don’t know anything about hydraulics but that’s like the one time you helped me out and got me to split. my transmission and open the differential and it ended up working out and i definitely learned a lot from this kind of stuff also what are your thoughts on a pump like this https://m.vevor.com/gear-pump-c_10084/hydraulic-log-splitter-pump-hydraulic-motor-16-gpm-2-stage-hi-lo-gear-pump-p_010859226370?utm_source=facebook&utm_medium=dynamic+ads&ad+id=23851830555580607&placement=Facebook_Mobile_Feed&fbclid=IwAR2k7UPH4ilcN0an9PnkTMS32lc6xh3PX8hqT46uqKaEmweCtnN7P6gd-xg_aem_AfTLsnwB92kMjkTtx65Ja3ChnqrMahGNl8lEwlUA_f00HQIb2evDgJKfStyYKIo1LOwWhK_sWy6qNuE6AkbPVygA5kfKZ4vFWLi2lAYTNcxMEJtR3cGxUL9oLZSgE-TyIUY&ad_id=23851830555580607&campaign_id=23851830555600607#_goodsSellPoint

[Pullstart 62,812]

I’m not positive if a 2-stage is optimal for a loader or not.  It would make sense to be able to move it the same speed, no matter if it’s loaded or not… in a control / muscle memory standpoint.

[857lover 291]

9 minutes ago, Pullstart said:

I’m not positive if a 2-stage is optimal for a loader or not.  It would make sense to be able to move it the same speed, no matter if it’s loaded or not… in a control / muscle memory standpoint.

so should i be looking for a single stage as opposed to a two stage ?

[Pullstart 62,812]

35 minutes ago, 857lover said:

so should i be looking for a single stage as opposed to a two stage ?

I think it would be a good idea to do some research… I’ve never looked into it myself.  

[857lover 291]

1 minute ago, Pullstart said:

I think it would be a good idea to do some research… I’ve never looked into it myself.  

i’ve been looking there i don’t see much unfortunately i am just looking for a cheaper alternative for that northern pump you guys sent to me

[sjoemie himself 3,068]

@857lover again I think your best bet is a local hydraulic shop. If you can look up the specs for your 'old' pump they can tell you if one or two-stage is better for your application.

[JoeM 7,871]

looks like a standard old gear pump. If you can put the intake in some oil and spin it with a drill it will tell you alot. biggest issue would be the shaft seal leaking. 

single stage is all you need about 4-6 gpm. 

one issue is using a pump designed for side loading. They have a bearing on the shaft to support the side load of the belt tension. Of course this feature cost more money. 

[857lover 291]

1 minute ago, JoeM said:

looks like a standard old gear pump. If you can put the intake in some oil and spin it with a drill it will tell you alot. biggest issue would be the shaft seal leaking. 

single stage is all you need about 4-6 gpm. 

one issue is using a pump designed for side loading. They have a bearing on the shaft to support the side load of the belt tension. Of course this feature cost more money. 

see other people have told me to chuck the shaft in a drill but the shaft diameter is to big unfortunately 

[JoeM 7,871]

3 minutes ago, 857lover said:

told me to chuck the shaft in a drill but the shaft diameter is to big unfortunately

just figured you would have to make some kind of adapter. tack a nut to end of the shaft?  I have already put a pulley on the shaft and spun them with a wire wheel in the drill running it in the grove. 

[oliver2-44 9,713]

When it comes to hydraulics, Cleanliness is paramount.  A little grit can destroy a pump, valve and cylinders in short operating time. Before you start spinning that pump give it a good clean outside. Then try to flush it out with clean diesel or kerosene I would pour some in one of the ports, let it sit a while to soften crud, then dump it out. If a lot of grit/filth comes out, repeat.  Then do the other port.  Once both ports seem clean, pour your cleaning fluid into the intake port and spin it by hand to move the fluid through the pump. doing this at slow speed (hand turning) will help prevent internal scratches (wear) that can occur quickly at high speed.  If the ports are not marked (inlet/outlet, or suction/pressure) spinning it by hand will confirm which is which.  Looking at the picture I suspect the side with the pipe reducer is the Inlet (suction) and the side with the high pressure hose fitting is the outlet (pressure)  

 

In the picture with the loader towers I can see what looks like a partial sub frame that stops at the center attach-a-matic bracket under the engine.  Do you have any bracing all the way to the front of the tractor and bracing going back from the front at an angle to the towers?

    

[857lover 291]

9 minutes ago, oliver2-44 said:

When it comes to hydraulics, Cleanliness is paramount.  A little grit can destroy a pump, valve and cylinders in short operating time. Before you start spinning that pump give it a good clean outside. Then try to flush it out with clean diesel or kerosene I would pour some in one of the ports, let it sit a while to soften crud, then dump it out. If a lot of grit/filth comes out, repeat.  Then do the other port.  Once both ports seem clean, pour your cleaning fluid into the intake port and spin it by hand to move the fluid through the pump. doing this at slow speed (hand turning) will help prevent internal scratches (wear) that can occur quickly at high speed.  If the ports are not marked (inlet/outlet, or suction/pressure) spinning it by hand will confirm which is which.  Looking at the picture I suspect the side with the pipe reducer is the Inlet (suction) and the side with the high pressure hose fitting is the outlet (pressure)  

 

In the picture with the loader towers I can see what looks like a partial sub frame that stops at the center attach-a-matic bracket under the engine.  Do you have any bracing all the way to the front of the tractor and bracing going back from the front at an angle to the towers?

    

i am working on building stabilizer bars that go from the tower to the front attachamatic my first idea wasn’t working the best because on a angle my axel dropper all the way to one side and turned in all the way it was rubbing the tire was thinking of doing a swept axle to put the tires further out to give me enough clearance but i don’t know what all that entails 

 

[953 nut 55,120]

With a front end loader it is more a matter of volume than it is about high pressure. Much like air compressors the two stage pump builds higher pressure and is not the way to go,

On 11/6/2022 at 11:43 AM, 857lover said:

it ended up working out and i definitely learned a lot from this kind of stuff

That is why we enjoy helping our younger members. None of us were born knowing anything, we had the blessing of being around people who were willing to help us learn and now we can pass it along. Before long you too will be helping others.   Keep up the god work.